Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

Luke harness - buckle swap, how?


SteveP

Recommended Posts

  • 5 months later...
  • 3 years later...

Gave this a shot tonight, but that front screw just does NOT want to come out... then read the last comment by Grubbster mentioning the "later type" and thought I should ask if the procedure described in this thread from 2003 is still relevant now, over four years later?

 

- Sean

 

Edited by - BBL on 1 Dec 2007 04:19:02

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did mine (2002 model) recently. Initially a tough call to crack the loctite (other locking compounds are available !!), but very easy to do otherwise. Use a big handled screwdriver for more purchase, and don't hold the buckle in your hand, or you may end up with the screwdriver blade through your palm if you slip *eek* Bit like tightening the tiny screws on spectacle frames - always always do it on the edge of a hard surface, otherwise you will stab yourself (or scratch the expensive lens !)with the jewellers screwdriver - been there, done that (stabbing, not scratching) !

 

7 related photos

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Area Representative

How difficult do you want to make this job? *confused*

I did this -

Go to the car, look at the belts.

Find the two length adjusters, move the friction pressure bar and unthread the adjustable end with the buckle on it.

Do the same to the other waist strap.

Swap them over and rethread both.

Get your passenger to sit in the seat and readjust to fit.

 

Oh, and for mine the normal position of the buckle release is horizontal so that it doesn't stick into any part of the body.

 

Edited by - Golf Juliet Tango on 1 Dec 2007 12:44:17

Link to comment
Share on other sites

But then don't you just end up with the situation mentioned above, where you have one slot at the top and two at the bottom?

My car was like that when I first bought it, and when you fastened the shoulder straps one ends up at 90 degrees to the buckle and the other at 180 degress, leaving the two waist straps at an odd angle. It works but it's neither comfortable nor safe.

 

Alan

The existence of chance is everything and nothing whilst the greatest achievement is the living of life.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay, here's how I was approaching this:

 

I read all of the thread, and used my smallest hex wrench to push in the pin on the back and remove the buckle from the strap - easy.

Then I started to follow the step-by-step instructions from Tony C on page one, quoted here:

1. I first removed it from the car so that I could do it in comfort at the table.

2. Place it on some white paper so you can see all the bits that may drop out.

3. I removed the backplate first and removed the removable strap - THEN RE-INSTALED THE BACKPLATE.

4. Remove the centre scre at the front as per what you did and if you undo the small scres carefully and evenly - all will be revealed.

5. The springs shouldn't fly out; they are coated with grease.

6. swap over (180 degree apart) the fixed and the standard pin.

7. Put the front plate back on - using Loctite on the screws.

8. Take-off the backplate again and swap over the straps.

9. Again, use Loctite on the screws.

10. Bob's yer Uncle


Except for the fact that I had already removed the buckle from the car and the strap, and that none of my uncles are actually named Robert, this all seemed very straightforward.

 

But then Grubbster's post informs me the later model buckles (mine is brand new - just got the new car last week) don't need the screw in the front removed. *confused* Well, that's the step that includes the words, "...all will be revealed." My buckle looks distinctly different than the one shown in the link by markiebabes and SM25T.

 

So this brings me to the question, should I remove the screw on the front to get into it or not?

 

- Sean

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Just done this job after attending the LADs meeting in Bolton sencond visit (first having bought a Seven).

 

It's a dead easy, 5 minute job.

 

Having read all the threads on this subject I decided to do it in car and this worked well for me as literally I swapped one side for the other without becoming diorientaed and starting to wonder which way was which!

 

I found Richard Price's photos very helpful See here

 

You definately need good fitting screw driver bits or like others you run the risk of damaging the srew heads (if it rocks about it's not a good fit - don't use it).

 

Once you've removed the red leaver and start to remove the two screws on the plate below just keep the plates together by squeezing. Once the screws are out just gently ease the pressure and the springs won't go any where.

 

Take the two relevant springs out. You then just need to swap the two pins/fittings/whatever they are called out and swap sides. I sued some fine nose pliers just to get hold of them as they are sat on grease.

 

Re fit the bits and off you pop!

 

All thanks to the power of Blatchat and it's members.

 

Simon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I ended up removing the backplate (five screws). Upon reassembly, I decided to replace the standard flathead screws with hex drive flathead screws. No legal action was required. *tongue*

 


*smile* Sean
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...