DouglasBen Posted April 12 Share Posted April 12 Good Morning. I need to replace split gaitor for MOT. I have looked through Blatchat and multiple references to a trick that involves unscrewing the rod, and not having to split the ball joint. However all of the links I have tried have been broken and so I am none the wiser. Can anyone assist with working link, or take me through the process please? Ideally with pictures as I bought a complete car (did not build myself) and am not totally comfortable with all the terminology. I can however weald a spanner etc! Thanks very much indeed, looking to take on this task tomorrow. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted April 12 Member Share Posted April 12 Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted April 12 Share Posted April 12 And when fitting the gaiter and you can't reach through the side skin to push the wide end on to the rack (nearside on my SV), fold the mouth of the gaiter back on itself half an inch or so, push it up to the rack, then use a screwdriver or spoon handle to unfold it and it pops into place over the rack spigot 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Geoff Brown Posted April 12 Area Representative Share Posted April 12 Generous amounts of washing up liquid aids the fit of the inboard end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DouglasBen Posted April 12 Author Share Posted April 12 Thank you so far! Excuse my ignorance, are there certain parts you should loosen off first to allow it to be unscrewed? How do I actually unscrew the arm? I am trying to get all the answers before attacking it! Thanks all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted April 12 Member Share Posted April 12 2 hours ago, DouglasBen said: Excuse my ignorance, are there certain parts you should loosen off first to allow it to be unscrewed? How do I actually unscrew the arm? I am trying to get all the answers before attacking it! Have you had a chance to read the whole thread to which I linked above? There's lots of details and photos. Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted April 12 Share Posted April 12 Cut the cable ties on the gaiter. Undo (just crack) the lock nut at the outside end of the track rod arm which sits against the track rod end. Mark the inner faced of the lock nut position on the rod with a bit of paint. Find the flats on the rod and unscrew the rod from the track rod end ... etc 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john milner Posted April 22 Share Posted April 22 When mine failed at an MOT I watched the mechanic use a ball joint separator. Next time I needed it done I bought one. There are ways of hitting the thing with a pair of hammers but I never got that to work. Easy job with the right tool. A glue repair of the gaiter might be even easier. Laser 0282 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldAndrewE Posted April 22 Share Posted April 22 Laser 1793 For steering arm joints one of these works just as well and is easier to use in the space Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted April 22 Share Posted April 22 You don't need to split the ball joint ! Crack the lock nut and unscrew the tie rod from the track rod end. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter G Posted April 24 Share Posted April 24 On 22/04/2024 at 09:50, SM25T said: You don't need to split the ball joint ! Crack the lock nut and unscrew the tie rod from the track rod end. Newer track rods don't have flats on them, I recently replaced mine to take out play in the rack, sourced from Caterham.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbob Posted April 25 Share Posted April 25 Tackling this job myself this weekend. Is there any requirement to repack any grease within the gaiter when replacing it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted April 25 Share Posted April 25 1 hour ago, timbob said: Tackling this job myself this weekend. Is there any requirement to repack any grease within the gaiter when replacing it? No. You can grease the teeth of the rack if you wind it from lock to lock 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted April 25 Share Posted April 25 9 hours ago, Peter G said: Newer track rods don't have flats on them, I recently replaced mine to take out play in the rack, sourced from Caterham.. You can use mole grips on a part that is hidden under the gaiter while you crack the lock nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ainsley Posted April 25 Share Posted April 25 My track rod end has a flat on it, hiding under the gaiter. Mine is a 2024 car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted April 25 Member Share Posted April 25 1 hour ago, Ainsley said: My track rod end has a flat on it, hiding under the gaiter. Mine is a 2024 car. It's good to hear that they've reappeared. Otherwise as Ian suggests. Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted April 25 Member Share Posted April 25 1 hour ago, SM25T said: No. You can grease the teeth of the rack if you wind it from lock to lock More on this, please. IIRC I gave it all a slathering before hiding it away again. Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted April 25 Member Share Posted April 25 3 hours ago, timbob said: Tackling this job myself this weekend. Have you already got the gaiters? Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted April 25 Share Posted April 25 11 hours ago, Peter G said: Newer track rods don't have flats on them, I recently replaced mine to take out play in the rack, sourced from Caterham.. They are very tiny flats, not easy to find. Did you have your glasses on 😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted April 25 Leadership Team Share Posted April 25 In the past I've filed small flats on each track rod where there hasn't been any, it seems very hit and miss as to whether they come with flats or not. Also, whilst the track rod is disconnected from the track rod end, consider fitting electrical cable "gland covers" to protect the nuts from corrosion. Stu. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ainsley Posted April 25 Share Posted April 25 The flats are pretty well hidden, far back under the gaiter and really not obvious from looking, I felt them more than saw them. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbob Posted April 25 Share Posted April 25 2 hours ago, Jonathan Kay said: Have you already got the gaiters? Jonathan Yes, I have a set from Caterham. I did see in the archive that some older Escort kits fitted, but for about 20 quid, I bought the “fits all models” kit from CC themselves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted April 26 Share Posted April 26 Personally, I wouldn’t put washing up liquid anywhere near engineered components. I can only assume GB was being facetious! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Lowe Posted April 26 Share Posted April 26 (edited) 12 minutes ago, Wrightpayne said: Personally, I wouldn’t put washing up liquid anywhere near engineered components. I can only assume GB was being facetious Probably not, it’s quite common to use soap to assist with fitting rubber components that are a tight fit as it doesn’t affect the rubber where as lubricants like oil and grease will. However you only need a smear imo. ETA: You could always use red rubber grease but that’s messy and hangs about attracting dirt and carp. Edited April 26 by Guy Lowe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted April 26 Share Posted April 26 I didnt use any lubricant when I fitted new gaitors to my rack. They’re thin rubber and stretch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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