PlastererPete Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 Evening all, Looking at the front suspension on my 2005 CSR it seems there is some corrosion creeping into the spherical joints on the pushrod. Looking at CC parts website they list a couple for “pushrod” but I’m unsure which one(s) I need (CC’s need to improve there description of the parts 🙄). Can someone point me in the right direction and also possibly name a different supplier? As CC are currently doing there relocation. Thanks in advance, Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 Redline Components ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 59 minutes ago, PlastererPete said: Spherical joints can readily be ordered in various qualities - economy to aero from Mcgill's 59 minutes ago, PlastererPete said: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamC Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 Pete, they are M10x1.5 threads. Left hand thread one end, right hand the other. Part numbers are: Fluro GALSW10 (LH) Fluro GASW10 (RH) Half the Caterham Parts price when bought from Autosport Bearings. Fluro are a good brand of bearing. I fitted them to my CSR last year. Sam 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlastererPete Posted March 19 Author Share Posted March 19 (edited) Cheers gents. I'll get in contact with Redline and see if they have them. For Mcgills I would need to know the details (bore size, thread size/pitch etc) which after scouring the various manuals I have, they aren't listed. EDIT: SamC, superb!! Thanks. I'll get them ordered. I take it fitting is a simple as jacking the car up, removing the wheel and unbolting the pushrod? Edited March 19 by PlastererPete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamC Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 (edited) Errr, let’s go with ‘yes’! 🤣 In theory that is correct, but in practice the lower bolt through the wishbone had to be cut out of mine on both sides. I then had to order replacement top hats (Caterham parts ref 60F008A) If you can, soak that junction in PlusGas for several days before and liberally heat it with a heat gun to give yourself a fighting chance. Once the pushrod is off, don’t forget to measure the eye to eye lengths before dismantling them so you can just refit them and not have to worry about re setting it up. Once the lower bolt is out it is a straight forward job. One thing to watch for is the bolt clearance to the rearward leg of the top wishbone. It is flippin’ tight, so make sure you put the nut on the same side of the rocker that it was before. Edited March 19 by SamC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlastererPete Posted March 19 Author Share Posted March 19 2 minutes ago, SamC said: Errr, let’s go with ‘yes’! 🤣 In theory that is correct, but in practice the lower bolt through the wishbone had to be cut out of mine on both sides. I then had to order replacement top hats (Caterham parts ref 60F008A) 😆 It's suddenly something I think I should've done over winter, but I was preoccupied with replacing the "fancy bits (carbon)". Maybe I'll get PGM to do it when it goes for its service this year. Just incase I have to replace the bolts too, what are the specs for those lower ones? 😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamC Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 (edited) They are a 5/16 x 3.25” cap head (2” shank). Caterham don’t stock them… I’d deffo say have a go. If you can’t get the bolt to turn then bail out if you don’t fancy it, but if you can get it out it is an hours job. (@PlastererPete Edited to include thread and shank length) Edited March 19 by SamC 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamC Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 (Cover the shank in copper slip or equivalent when installing to help prevent corrosion) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlastererPete Posted March 20 Author Share Posted March 20 9 hours ago, SamC said: (Cover the shank in copper slip or equivalent when installing to help prevent corrosion) Cheers Sam. I’ll definitely give it a go. I was lucky with the other bolts on the rear end so maybe, as you say, soak with plus gas and give it a whirl. Cheers for all the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlastererPete Posted March 20 Author Share Posted March 20 Ok so next question (sorry 😬). Are those bolts, UNC, UNF, BSW, BSF? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamC Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 UNF (24TPI) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlastererPete Posted March 20 Author Share Posted March 20 Wonderful Thanks Sam. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldAndrewE Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 38 minutes ago, PlastererPete said: Ok so next question (sorry 😬). Are those bolts, UNC, UNF, BSW, BSF? You are very unlikely to come across BSW or BSF on a Caterham. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlastererPete Posted March 20 Author Share Posted March 20 (edited) 7 minutes ago, OldAndrewE said: You are very unlikely to come across BSW or BSF on a Caterham. To be honest I didn't even think about that lol. I've always used metric as its what I was taught, so this is a foray into imperial for me that I wasn't expecting 😄 I'm just searching for those specific dimensions then all these options appeared. Edited March 20 by PlastererPete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlastererPete Posted March 30 Author Share Posted March 30 Well today was the day. Full of “man flu” I’ve spent the morning changing the joints. It was well needed as two of them were very very stiff and one was unmovable. Initially had trouble getting the lower bolts out as I didn't have the correct imperial allen socket but a T30, a pair of mole grips and some heat persuaded them out. Thanks @SamC for the specs of bolts and for pre-warning me about the potential difficulty of those lower bolts. Just a quick note that I couldn’t find the correct bolts for the rocker arm off the shelf, so bought 70mm versions and cut them down. Its worked a treat with the shank/thread ratio. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now