K series dead?

[55Seloc]

Hi there,

new owner from Cyprus with a 2003 ex Academy car from the UK but with a different (from the original at least) K engine. 1.8 I believe.

the engine looks like the top was off and HG done. Confirmed by previous owner without any paperwork. 
 

Car would often overheat in traffic and on track, so new larger rad was installed together with a new pump and thermostat. 
 

would still overheat after a few (short) spirited laps of the local track, spitting out coolant everywhere. 
 

replaced the tank just in case. On the way to the track couldn’t even get the temp up to normal operating range. On the track same coolant issue, but now would overheat quickly, so had to drive for 10-15 mins stop to cool down for 30 mins on the motorway.. as recovery track wouldn’t take car and 2 pax..

long story short now after a couple of mins from start coolant is thrown up.

so looks like exhaust gases push coolant out? So HG was t done properly last time I guess. 
 

question is:

1) new K series (from where / which one?) plug and pray?

2) duratec kit?

3) open it up and try to recondition the head etc?

thoughts?

many thanks! No community here unfortunately so please excuse if been discussed to death )

 

 

[Jonathan Kay]

Welcome

I'd pursue 3 a bit further. Would you be doing the work yourself?

Background reading on K series while we're waiting for the experts:
• K series from DVA Power
• DVA Power

Jonathan

PS: If you'd like some relevant documentation from Caterham and Rover please send me a Private Message with your email address.

Edited January 23 by Jonathan Kay

[Ainsley]

I would figure out why its overheating and then sort that issue.

I'm sure Cyprus is hot, but is it that hot the K series engine wont work - unlikely as its a tried and tested engine.

Are there other issues not yet resolved, has your head gasket died, have you warped the head ?  Too many unanswered questions.

[Nick Chan]

Start with the basics perhaps and make sure the coolant system is well bled and doesn't have any airlocks in it.  Maybe consider fitting a PRRT (remote thermostat) to help with getting it bled easier.  Also, a new expansion bottle cap should be used as there have been problems with old/cheap ones not working properly and allowing coolant past the cap

[jbcollier]

A local shop or parts store will have kits for testing the presence of exhaust gases in the coolant.  If positive, it's a head gasket.

[OldAndrewE]

From what the OP has said it certainly sounds like head gasket failure that has steadily got worse.  The question is why has it failed?  I am certainly no K series expert but I understand there is an issue of aluminium going soft allowing gasket to bite in

[Gridgway]

I'm not expert either but if there was a previous HG problem, the head could be warped and need skimming and the liner heights may be incorrect.  I think it's rarely a case of just replacing the gasket if that's all the PO did.

[SM25T]

Airlocks high on the list

[Englishmaninwales]

2 hours ago, SM25T said:

Airlocks high on the list

+1

[oilyhands]

Hydrocarbon test is first on the list. If it has failed it’s likely that the original root cause of HGF was not addressed and that a new gasket was fitted regardless. The gasket is rarely the problem, it is the environment in which the gasket finds itself, there are a number of issues that can cause failure

i) low liner heights, these should be 0.1mm proud of the block surface at room temperature.

2) cylinder head annealed/soft, head surface on the exhaust side of the head should be > 95 brinell, factory hardness is 125 brinell, witnessed by indentation in the surface of the head where the fire ring sits, more prevalent on the exhaust side of the head.

3) casting faults under where the fire ring sits. These are evidenced by small pits around the gasket ring area.

Once the root cause has been identified and corrected the gasket should be reliable.My preference is the Payen BW750 elastomer gasket, the MLS is less tolerant of uneven or low liner heights.

There are fixes for 1 and 3, if 2.. the head requires replacement.

If any or all of the the above 3 are present the HG will fail again in short order.

Oily

[55Seloc]

Thank you guys for sharing and caring! Will try to push for the test to be done and then open the top up to investigate..

Also swap for vvti looks tempting will search to see how difficult that would be. Of course buying a second hand engine is not without its risks..

https://allegro.pl/oferta/silnik-rover-200-1-8-vvc-18k4k-164-tys-14686562279 

[rj]

My Sillylight overheated after spirited track (ab)use. I thought it was a HGF, but it turned out that the water boiled in the water rail above the primaries if the engine was not cooled down properly. In the end a small electric water pump that kicks in at +95 degrees in the water rail was the cure