jbcollier
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Everything posted by jbcollier
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Stock Ford 1600GT crossflow and a 2000e tranny. Standard fare for a very late S2 and the S3s. The mount is not stock. The old riveted in mount has been drilled out and this welded in, along with some other bracing and reinforcements. I have read the both Arch and DSK offered reinforcement and tranny mount kits of parts ready to be welded/brazed into place.
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Genius! Thanks
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I have a ‘69 Lotus Seven S3. Sometime in the past, a PO removed the stock gearbox support and had two sections of square tubing added. This probably was part of a “improvement kit” sold by either Arch or DSK. I’m looking for a replacement mount. It is not the same as Caterham used. The photos below show the old mount next to a Caterham mount. The last photoshows the two back to back. Any idea where the mount I have might have come from?
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Figured it out. Hold the gear so you are looking through the mounting bore and, voila, 7T
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Appreciate your pointing that out. Really just trying to sort the gear tooth counting issue.
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This is my gear:
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I've pulled down my Seven S3 gearbox (2000E) for a refresh it was getting a bit noisy. It was the input shaft bearing but I'm changing them all regardless. As part of the process, I'm counting teeth on my steel speedo drive gear on the mainshaft. I only get 6T unless I count sideways. So I went searching for the correct 7T gear and found this auction: https://www.ebay.com/itm/194390802014 My gear is identical. Am I going crazy or is the auction gear only 6T? If I'm not crazy, anyone have photos of what a 7T gear looks like? Any leads on a 7T?
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Generally speaking, you shouldn't hone aluminium bores. It can be done, it might work but the price of new replacements are such that new is the way to go. If you want to save your originals, get them sleeved.
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A local shop or parts store will have kits for testing the presence of exhaust gases in the coolant. If positive, it's a head gasket.
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Make sure you also get a gauge that can check caster and the included angle. Those are the best indicators for bent parts.
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Hmm, about 12 thou. Not great but not awful. If it’s the pistons, that’s odd and easily fixable. If it’s how the block is decked, that’s quite a bit and a lot more work to fix. I’d start by talking with your machinist. If you are building a hopped up crossflow, always clay your combustion chambers. Doesn’t take long and then you know.
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Not wild about cigarette lighter/power sockets as a 100% reliable connection. I use DIN power sockets myself. It snaps home for a positive connection. Useful for my heated vest as well.
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Two hammers? One hammer on one side, smack the other side of the link (that the ball joint is attached to) with the other hammer. The shock will break the taper loose. No fuss, no torn boots, no need for yet another special tool that you can't find when you need it.
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The HEI module does not control advance. It would have a mechanical advance underneath the plate.
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I'm very interested to hear the results. What coil are you using? HEI does NOT use a conventional coil. Been a long time and I can't rememeber the difference but they all looked something like this: Some websites that might be useful: https://www.gmcmi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/HEI-Testing.pdf http://www.pontiacpower.org/HEI.pdf https://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/trouble-shooting-rebuilding-hei-ignitions.2798/
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Answered on another forum. Turns per mile is good and a 10k tach was used as well as the more common 8k tach.
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If you have an original speedometer, what is the turns-per-mile rating on your speedometer. Mine is 1040 and I just want to check if that is original. PS: Do you have an 8K or 10K tach?
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This works really well for me:
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Tough to say for sure from one photo but your jam nut looks too thick. Should be more like this:
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Can you post photos of the hose end, washers, etc. Just want to make sure there nothing else amiss first.
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Can you post photos of the hose end, washers, etc. Just want to make sure there nothing else amiss first.
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1: a copper washer either side ande you're good. Any auto parts store/industrial supply should have them. 2: I don't think you need the two large washers as the brake line itself helps hold that end of the flex hose steady.
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I have actually never seen a failed pick-up or coil. I've heard of failed coils but not pick-ups. Modules? Changed lots and lots of those.
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Duh, sorry, asleep at the wheel again. Here's a diagram that shows how a Delco 4 pin amplifier is wired:
