jbcollier

It's a Triumph based suspension and they came with a lock washers so I would use one. That particular bolt is torqued to 22 to 27 ft/lbs.

If they are dry right now, I would not "fix" them. If they have been weeping, then I would.

The link is to "button" head allen bolts. "Truss head" ones are wider and are more like the originals.

If you cut the positive then you need to make sure that there is a mech to shut down the alternator. Otherwise, depending on how it is wired, the car may well stay running as if nothing has happened. It is common to have a pull cable working a remote cut-off switch. This allows you to keep short battery cable runs and have two shut off locations (one internal, one external as required by many race organizations. Some switches can be used with a solid cable to make it an on/off switch even though it is remote operated. It can function as an anti-theft device but this only works with casual thieves. The knowledgeable thief will not be slowed very long by a battery cut off. I have mine installed mainly in case of a shunt/fire. Naturally, I have yet to use it for that reason -- knock on wood -- but that's its primary function and it is located accordingly.

Just a final, final update, it is original chassis with updates. They removed the belly pan/floor, drilled out the rivets for the rear tranny mount and welded in the Caterham style one. They then fit the original pan/floor back in, re-riveted everything back in place but leaving the original mount's rivet holes open. Quite the puzzle it's been!

Hmm, 1990 so the original Spaxs lasted 30 years. Why not buy the same again?

Lucas alternators are spec-ed with light duty diodes. If you run the battery down, or have lots of electrical load, and the alternator has to run at full output, one or more diodes will pop in short order. This is a standard, no extra cost option. You can fix/replace the alternator but, if the root cause is still there, they will pop again. If you only have light loads, and the battery ran down on you, then by all means repair/replace the alt and be careful next time to charge a low battery before running the engine. Otherwise, I would fit another alternator. There are lots of options out there.

Looks like the hub was loose.

I completely rebuilt my Lotus Europa S1 and decided to go with Evan's coolant as Iwasstartingfrom a clean slate. I had persistent coolant weeps that no amount of hose tightening would cure. I flushed the system and switched to the blue stuff used in MBs, BMWs, Volvos, etc. All my problems went away. YMMV

I prefer hard-wired comms. Music is optional so if your batteries go south sooner than expected, no big deal as you still have the comms.

If it is out just a wee bit, relax, wait for the first service and mention it then. They will then check the complete alignment and adjust accordingly.

Amazon sells Bluetooth gadgets that you can plug your music source into and will pair with multiple devices. Cheap, cheerful and work well. Does multiply the number of things lying about though.

I either removed or left off the radio connectors. The first I wired in a cigarette lighter adapter. The second I hard wired in.

My first attempts were with the SPA rally unit and recon headsets. Worked well enough but the sound was flat and dull. Ok for voice communications but awful for anything else. I then went to the Bose A20s based on online reviews. They are amazing. Expensive but very well built and stunning sound. The noise reduction and blue-tooth is powered by 2 AA batteries and lasts roughly 8 hours depending on where and what you are doing. I use rechargeable a and charge them every evening when I'm tripping.

In answer to your previous question, I use aviation intercom systems designed for ultralights (very noisy!). Happily used this at first: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/flightcom2sx.php Then went built in with this system: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/pages/av/intercoms_sigtronics/spa4sintercom.php Both worked well.

Chap on the USA7s list has used the Bose headsets and they work fine. Intercom (mic-ing) above 50mph is a problem though. Definitely looking at PTT.

Pilots. If you want noisy, ultra-light and helicopter pilots.

Not really, you can use a phone app as an intercom. No idea how well they work. Or, how easy they are to control on the fly. I prefer to use aviation stuff myself. Specifically units designed for ultralights as they are rated for excess vibration and noise.

Hardwired push-to-talk as the buffeting may play heck with the squelch settings.

Well I'll give it a go and report back. Looks like I may have to add PTT but we'll see.

My "other" car is a S1 Lotus Europa and it is very noisy inside. It's pretty cool for about an hour or so; after that, it gets annoying. On long trips, I run an intercom system with Bose A20s. They're noise cancelling and it all works very well. However, the Europa is not an open car. Anyone have experience using noise cancelling headsets in a Seven? Do they work in a draughty cockpit? If so, I'll set up the Seven with an intercom as well.

Go fast types, you can stop reading now. Finding quality tires in the smaller sizes is getting more and more difficult. Even Vredestein dropped some of their classic 13" offerings. 10 years back I ordered a set of Michelin XAS tires from Longstone. They were vintage re-pops made in India. Frankly they were the worst set of tires I had ever seen in 35 years of wrenching, preposterously out-of- round and true. Though I was once bitten, I decided to try again. This time I ordered the Pirelli CN36s in 165/80R13, again from Longstone. They arrived moderately quickly and shipping costs were reasonable. These tires were made in Argentina. I took the old wheels, Dunlop mags and no-name 185s, and the Pirellis to my tire shop and had them mounted. The shop said they ran straight and true, and, here's the amazing part, only a 1/2oz of balance weight for all five wheels! That's very, very good. Astounding even. I won't get a chance to drive on them until April and expect they will be slippery, given their diminutive contact patches, but that sounds like fun to me. YMMV

http://lowflying.lotus7.club/1993/1993_03_05_Ital.pdf Undo the four retaining bolts and you may well need a slide hammer to get the axle out. Worth trying to see if it will come out without a slide hammer if you don't have one. Most auto parts stores will also rent tools.

Your local auto parts store will have a whole range of belt sizes. If you are careful, they will take back belts the wrong size and substitute for one the right size.

Early crossfow, pre-711, with the vestigual combustion chambers in the head. Totally stock, Cortina GT tune. Even still has the 32DFM carb. I'm inclined to go with a 160F/71C stat but wanted to make sure I wasn't doing something plum crazy. Thanks for your thoughts so far.