jbcollier
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Everything posted by jbcollier
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Thanks, much appreciated.
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The consensus from the experts was "no" to the side screens fitting. They would be too long. It was also pointed out that the early style screens with their vents are actually quite useful. Something I confirmed on my first road trip -- the same trip that led to the plugged filter from debris in my original but freshly steamed and lined tank. The top they were fuzzier on but if the screens won't fit then the top must be a miss as well. Mike Brotherwood is having new screens and tops made up and I have my name down for a set. The filler is on the right on S3 Sevens so all good there. Any dimensions would be gratefully received. Looking for them from a carburetted crossflow vehicle, which should preclude wide chassis and other later shinnagons.
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Unfortunately it's radio silence from Redline. I'll try Arch.
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Will the below tank fit in a Lotus Seven (S3)? https://caterhamparts.co.uk/tanks/575-fuel-tank-carb-ford-and-vauxhall-engines-alloy.html?search_query=Fuel+tank&results=212
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I went through everything. The main hold up was the engine. Had to get valve pockets cut in the pistons (clayed the heads to find 0.1mm between the exhaust valve and piston). Seems to have quite the lumpy cam — thus the lack of clearance. Few more jobs and it is off to the sunset I go…
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First things first, ANY oil is better than nothing. But, low spec oils are a poor choice for a high spec engine. They will not properly protect your engine under stress. Still, they are fine as a limp home solution. If oils meet the engine's requirements, then you can mix two different viscosities. It is not good practice but oil companies do make oils of similar specification compatible with one another.
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They, and you sould too, used brake assembly lube. It has dried out and all that is left is the wax/soap base.
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I might as well be in deepest, darkest Africa as I'm in the colonies, specifically Edmonton Alberta Canada.
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Inquired directly with Soft Bits and they only make half-hoods and half-doors. If I had a roll bar, they were confident they could make one up just from photos. Nice to know.
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From Thundersport: Unfortunately, I have some bad news. I have been discussing your email with both the company director (the original trimmer who patterned the Caterham weather gear in the 70s) and our production manager. The current full hood and doors will definitely not fit your car. Our director advised that you might be able to get away with a short cockpit full hood but, upon investigation of our pattern boards with the Production Manager, we have no longer have the patterns available. Many apologies that we are unable to be of assistance.
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Thundersport now only sells certain items through Caterham. This includes hoods and screens. Does anyone know if a "Caterham S3" hood and side screens will fit a 1969 Lotus S3?
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Thanks for the links and suggestions. I'd forgot that the half-hood places also made full hoods. I can't use a half-hood as I don't have a roll bar. I have been trying to contact Redline for a few months. My emails and phone calls go unanswered. Any idea what might be up? I have a £650 credit I would hate to lose.
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Looking for a new top and doors for my 1969 S3. What are my options? Can I fit later Caterham offerings? They have larger windows, zip-out rear window and doors that fold so you can actually store them in the car.
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Rather than trying to fix everything in one fell swoop, carefully trace and test one (1) circuit until you find the issue. Do not randomly change relays and switches hoping to luck upon the solution. Multimeters are great tools, especially for testing continuity. Unfortunately, digital voltmeters have very, very high impedance and will show battery voltage in a circuit that couldn't light a 0.2w bulb. Get a test light with an incandescent bulb. This applies a light load to the circuit and is much better at finding poor connections.
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Lube may well help, but, a properly made cable will have a Teflon liner and not need lubrication. If it needs lubrication, this means it's time for a replacement and it will be toast soon. The motoring gods are sending you portends now so you don't end up shipwrecked later.
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Go and buy a cheap mechanical gauge. Test it against a bicycle tire pump to get an idea of how accurate it is. It doesn't need to be accurate, just consistent. Hook it up and start the car. Same behavior? STOP There is a mechanical issue in the engine.
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If you only occasionally go up to that speed and don't stay long, then you are ok. If you plan on driving that hard regularly or for any extended period, fit an oil cooler. Sevens are as aerodynamic as brick wall. The amount of engine power to overcome wind resistance climbs exponentially after 60 mph. This is why your mileage plummets and your oil temps rise. In contrast, my Lotus Europa purrs along at 90 mph with hardly any throttle required.
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120C is still ok but only just. 135C and oils will start breaking down.
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Assuming the "whirring" sound is the motor running, then it will be internal in the wiper motor. If it was just the cable the motor would still park and shut off.
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Tire markings like this are an aid but do not always represent the best placement when the rim is taken into account. If you can find a shop with road force balancing, they will test the rim and then the rim/tire combined. The machine will then come up with the best tire/rim orientation based on how the tire is interacting with the road.
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Congratulations, you have a constant problem. They are easy to find. It's intermittent problems that cause PERSD (post electrical repair syndrome disorder) . Run to your auto parts store and buy a test light with an incandescent bulb. LED test lights and digital multimeters can smell voltage through some of the worst connections imaginable. A test light with an incandescent bulb lightly loads the circuit and will find poor connections much easier. Judging by your description, there is a common ground point used by the headlight and turn signal that is poor/corroded. Whichever one is on, is using the other to find ground. When both are on, the lower impedence headlight (half-heartedly) wins the day.
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Typically, an alternator will have a "reverse" flow of about 20 to 40 milliamperes. I wouldn't worry about it.
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If it worked before, it should work again. Something is not hooked up correctly.