Tricky threading of mechanical oil gauge pipe into cockpit

[Doc007]

I need to thread a new mechanical oil pressure pipe through from the engine bay into the cockpit through the grommet on top of the transmission tunnel. But as you can see from the photo (sorry it's flipped through 90 degrees!) the hole is already jammed tight. I haven't yet got the new pipe but assume that it comes with the brass fitting permanently attached. Does anyone have a trick to pull it through? I'll tape the old one to the new one and pull it through but the fitting is likely to get stuck.

[Roadsport06]

I pushed mine down from the cockpit. I can't remember there being an issue for room. Once you have the connector through you have the thinner tube to easily push through

[John Vine]

I originally tried to route my line that way but gave up due to the congestion -- mainly the fat cables to the battery master switch.  Instead, I routed it directly through the bulkhead:

I drilled a hole wide enough to accommodate the brass union, and then fitted a grommet. 

I also wrapped the pressure line in (split) washer hose for added protection:

JV

[Doc007]

Thanks JV and RS06.

Probably try poking through from the inside out before throwing a a tantrum and drilling through the bulkhead.

When fitting to the back of the dial is there a special process or is it just a case of attaching it to the engine end, start the engine, wait until it's squirting out of the dial end and quickly screwing it in to the back of the dial?

[Roadsport06]

No need to start and wait for oil to move as the oil acts on the air. 

[SM25T]

Definitely don't start up without gauge connected ! I found grommet stretchy enough to stick a big screwdriver in and make enough room to get the brass union through.

[John Vine]

As it happens, I bled the oil line, but I don't think it's necessary. 

JV

[Keith_T]

After seeing this am glad I arranged for Eric at Cotswold Caterham to fit one for me.  

[SM25T]

It's really not difficult.

[Wrightpayne]

I put insulating heat shrink over the stainless braid on the section from the grommet to the gauge - there are a lot of wires to rub / short against under the scuttle! 

[Doc007]

It's the tube without the stainless braid but I guess the same principle applies. But how did you get the heat shrink over the fittings on either end.

[SM25T]

If it is nylon tube, no need to worry about shorting anything ! I ran my nylon tube inside a (split) thick pvc screen wash tube for abrasion resistance.

[John Vine]

#12  Ditto (following Ian's tip).

JV

[ECR]

Can you disconnect the fat battery cable and pull it through with string taped to it for rethreading. This should give enough room to pull the oil gauge brass fitting through. Then pull the battery cable back through. Liberal dose  of silicone spray will help

?

[Doc007]

Hmmm. Seems like a lot of work to poke the oil tube through that grommet. I can see me trying that and not being able to get the cable back through! I'll give it a try when the bits come but if it puts up too much of a fight I'll just go ahead and put a hole in the bulkhead. Its will also allow me to use an extra cover for the tube (another tube slit longitudinally) to give it more protection.

[SLR No.77]

In the photograph in post #1 there's quite a few cable ties holding groups of wires, start by removing these to allow all the wires to move freely. This will gain a lot of space in the hole.

[Roadsport06]

Once you have the bits in front of you you'll see how straight forward it is. You shouldn't need to go through the bulkhead but as you see that is easy enough and the photos show a neat install too.