StevehS3 Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 I haven't done this before and I was wondering about the easiest way. Could it be done by simply opening the bleed valve and allowing the old fluid to discharge by gravity via a tube and into a jam jar on the floor? Is it necessary to press the clutch pedal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamC Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 I use a Gunson Easybleed, but several other similar things are available. Essentially any brake bleed kit.You could do it with the pedal and topping up the M/C but for £20 for one of those kits, it's a no brainer.You just fill the kit with fluid, attach it to the reservoir (kit comes with a variety of caps) then the other hose to a tyre by the valve (to pressure the system). Then connect a tube to the bleed and drain into a jar etc.Easybleed Kit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevehS3 Posted February 10, 2023 Author Share Posted February 10, 2023 I use an Eezibleed for the brakes (I don't fill the bottle with fluid though - in case of leaks). I was wondering for the clutch if gravity was sufficient. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamC Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 Not sure on the gravity feed unfortunately, but one bit of anecdotal evidence that it wouldn't be great is that I've had my gearbox out all winter with the clutch hose disconnected and hanging out the bottom of the chassis in a pot. The reservoir still has fluid in it.It's worth a try, but if it doesn't work I'd use the Easybleed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamC Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 (Careful if using it empty though as the clutch reservoir is much smaller than the brake one! Air in there will turn a 30 min job into several hours!!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 Also careful if using Ezibleed with bottle full. Too much tyre pressure ... and any leak turns into a disastrous mess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevehS3 Posted February 10, 2023 Author Share Posted February 10, 2023 #5 yes, that is why I don't want to use the Eezibleed. The clutch reservoir is much smaller and also metal so the level can't be seen. Might need to get SWMBO involved to press the clutch pedal.#6 agree. I don't trust those Eezibleed pipe fittings at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Geoff Brown Posted February 10, 2023 Area Representative Share Posted February 10, 2023 As the contents of the clutch master cylinder is small all one needs to do is connect a flexible pipe to the bleed nipple of the slave cylinder. Divert the pipe into a suitable glass container.With someone on the clutch pedal open the bleed nipple & request 'down & hold'. Close the nipple request 'up'. Continue repeating this process till one has refilled the master cylinder reservoir at least once.Don't forget to check the reservoir contents every few strokes. Check for any spillage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamC Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 My problem is trading off the chances of SWMBO listening to me vs the Easybleed leaking... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevehS3 Posted February 10, 2023 Author Share Posted February 10, 2023 #9 that's why I was going to such extraordinary lengths to do it single-handedly :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamC Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 Ha! Joking aside, I've seen a Sealey pressure bleeding kit that looks much more robust. Maybe that's the answer.Think this is it, but never used it or seen it be used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevehS3 Posted February 10, 2023 Author Share Posted February 10, 2023 I've had great results with the Eezibleed bleed but yes, it is only twenty quid's worth. That looks better made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel B Posted February 10, 2023 Share Posted February 10, 2023 https://www.frost.co.uk/v-5-diy-reverse-brake-clutch-bleeder-phoenix-systems-2104-b/I find this an effective tool for bleeding the clutch. I originally bought it to bleed the brakes, as I was having problems getting a firm pedal, a couple of years ago, but it works well for the clutch too. The advantage of reverse bleeding is you're pushing the fluid upwards, in the same direction that air bubbles naturally want to go, or that's the theory anyway!As you're pushing the fluid upwards from the bleed nipple, you'll need a small syringe to periodically empty the master cylinder reservoir.I found it a pretty fool-proof & non-messy method & obviously you don't require an assistant for pedal pressing purposes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 That's interesting Nigel, a new one for me !Didn't you get any problems with it just pushing fluid back up round the threads of the bleed nipple, instead of into the system?I have a Mityvac which sucks the fluid through but I found that it always appeared to be pulling air through (which it was) because the air was coming in via the threads of the nipple! The rear calipers were much worse than the fronts in that respect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Geoff Brown Posted February 11, 2023 Area Representative Share Posted February 11, 2023 IMO there is too much faffing for such a small amount bled through the clutch hydraulic system. Brake system is another matter.I am still using the EazyBleed received with my kit. I do not fill it with fluid just use it like an accumulator to push the fluid through. No leakage on to the scuttle then but one has to watch the brake master cylinder level closely. Usually requires topping up after each corner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevehS3 Posted February 11, 2023 Author Share Posted February 11, 2023 That's what I do for the brakes. One inch of fill in my tall, thin jam jar and check the level in the MC. As you say, one top up per corner. Easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MTW Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 I have recently used the Sealey bleeder to do my brakes and clutch, it's fantastic works really well. Only thing is tighten up all the connections when you get it as mine didn't come completely air tight, but other than that is was great. I used it with fluid in the container as per the instructions and it worked great, don't have to worry about the reservoir running dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel B Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 #14 Hi Peter!No, I didn’t have any problems with fluid getting pushed out through the threads, or air being sucked in through them. I found that, inevitably I’d introduce a small amount of air when the pipe was initially pushed onto the bleed nipple, but that would very quickly make it’s way up & out of the master cylinder reservoir & after that, no further air bubbles would appear.I guess the pipe work is much shorter & less convoluted than with the brakes, so trapped air isn’t so much of a problem. I think the worst aspect of the job is the awkward position of the bleed nipple, hidden in the bell housing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel B Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 I should add, I'm a fan of the Gunson EazyBleed too, although as others have said, I don't fill the bottle with fluid. I just use it to pressurise the head space.I think they work very well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted February 11, 2023 Share Posted February 11, 2023 #18. Hi Nigel. I thought the Mityvac was working well, but there was a continual stream of small bubbles. After a fair bit of fluid had gone through I reverted to the traditional method and there was no air coming out. Put the vac back on and the air was there again which is when it dawned on me that the air was coming around the bleed nipple!Is your diff still OK? How many miles now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel B Posted February 13, 2023 Share Posted February 13, 2023 Yes, the diff is still great! No problems at all. It's covered about 15,000 miles now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR400D Posted February 13, 2023 Share Posted February 13, 2023 That's good, though I'm not surprised. Mine's only done about 6k but no sign of any drop in preload or anything. It'll be passing the mileage this year at which the Titan failed but you're several times past that now aren't you?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel B Posted February 13, 2023 Share Posted February 13, 2023 Yes, I realised the Titan was behaving a bit oddly at about 4,500 miles, so I've already covered over three times that mileage with the Tracsport. It feels very robust & I have every confidence that it will continue to provide good service for the foreseeable future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KnifeySpoony Posted February 14, 2023 Share Posted February 14, 2023 Were you guys on carbon or metal plates with your early failures? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevehS3 Posted February 14, 2023 Author Share Posted February 14, 2023 My carbon plate was knackered at 4000 miles with 150hp. Disgraceful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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