Jump to content
Click here if you are having website access problems ×

It's the little things (unnecessary upgrades)


Graham Hutton

Recommended Posts

This is great. I have added wrapping my exhaust primaries to the list now after reading #14 Tom B. Anyone got advice on what kit for wrapping to get? I don't want them to come undone.

Also, why longer wheel studs Tom?

I like the oil bottle solution and did something similar with my tyre goo using velcro straps riveted to the inner arch skin on the driverside.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Leadership Team

A 1L "Sigg" bottle is a perfect fit in a tool tube with a little space to spare for pvc gloves and a couple of rags, a nice alternative way to carry some spare oil.

Stu.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Longer wheel studs are to give more insurance against loosing your nuts! 

I cant remember what wrapping kit I used, suggest checking out Demon Tweaks or similar.  There is a heated debate about using wrap, as some say it retains heat in the head, but I've run it for years and not had a problem so far.  It helps stop my starter wiring, which is ~1cm from primary, from melting / embrittling.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Re wheel studs - earlier ford PCD hub seven wheel studs only engaged about 5 threads on the nut, usually masked by the fact that chrome closed end nuts were used. If open ended nuts were fitted the end of the stud was quite a way down inside the nut.

There is a thread somewhere (no pun intended) debating the engineering principles of how many engaged threads were safe. I changed mine for the longer ones available from caterham (now fitted as standard) and with mk1 Elise open nuts (I wanted all black and these were available in that colour) the stud is flush with the outer face of the nut, so fully engaged.

 

My car is a '98 and I think (read as guessing) the longer nuts became standard fitment mid 2000s. Easy enough to measure or count how many turns till the nut is tight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

#33 .... My 2002SV had 32mm long wheel studs. With the 10 spoke alloy wheels, the closed nuts only engaged by 3-4 threads, which is not safe engineering practice. I argued this was unsafe with CC .... but they wouldn't accept it. I replaced all studs with 40mm long parts. 32mm was probably a throwback to pressed steel wheels.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brilliant, thanks everyone. I like the tool tubes idea as I have been thinking of making something similar from a packed lunch box bolted down to the flat surface in front the airbox where the pedal box would be on a left hand drive car. I'll check those out for sure.

Youds7 - we should meet up sometime, I live near the rugby stadium in Exeter and head your way a fair bit as my favourite fun roundabout is at Clyst st George!!

I've not measured my wheel studs but will do so when I get the wheels off at the weekend. From memory there are lots of turns to tighten but I'll check. I notice that Redline components do stainless steel wheel nuts which I might go for as my chrome ones are already corroding.

On it with the exhaust wrapping research....

Keep it coming *clap*

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello,

 

As Wrightpayne, not sure that all where little things...

Initially a 1.6K RoadSport.

- Installation of SuperSport kit

- 4.2.1 VHPD exhaust

- Replace plastic inlet manifold by the VVC one + TB 52mm aly.

- New Protech shock absorbers+spring.

- The most expansive rear brearings: during Grandes Alpes tour, one rear bearing failed.

   - Once removed, I discovered that there was a big ball in the middle of the car, I decided to unmount it for installing an ATB Quaife LSD.

   - Then found something near the middle; I remove it for changing the gearbox ratio (BGH  E8), the gearbox case has been replaced by an aly one

   - Then, as the engine an geearbox were out; change the flywheel for the lighwheited one.

- All lights converted into led.

- Installation of DRL with switchback led (front turn lights are both for DRL and turn lights)

- Installation of an oil cooler.

- Relocation on calorstat.

- Radtech cooler

- Installation of shiftlight into the dashboard for a better integration.

- Development and installation of an automatic switch light

- New brakes provided by Hispec: a nightmare: rear calipers were not plug and play. Rear disk were changed to GT6 ones.

- As handbrake system from Hispec is everything but efficient, I manufactured an hydraulic hand brake (just finished right now).

- Modification of ECU for passing to a dual maps feature with the help of Revila (great thanks for that).

- And the most important add-on was Muttley (Wacky Races), a 3D printed logo:

Diabolo.thumb.jpg.6cf24c002debf548b15b09b9abab30ce.jpg

Next project: Passing to a full led rear light plate as from Justaddlightness.

 

All of these mods were made all along the 15 years I own my toy.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good effort 7SW!! That's quite a list there and I like the mutley sticker.

Saw a 7 the other day with a carbon rear diffuser. Anyone on here got any experience of them? It was a quick glance but I think it looked cool and would match my other carbon bling....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is also my next schedule: creation of a fuel thank protection. I already made the plans and a template but without taking into account the diffuser part.

20190422_155125.thumb.jpg.f4a37df36748fc82c8e1b8882668a42c.jpg

Some parts will have to be 3D printed for fixing the plate onto the chassis.

I'll check for the diffuser aspect.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh 7SW!!! This sound marvellous!! Can't wait to see your creation. I can see it now, 3D printed and wrapped to look like carbon. Definitely passes the unnecessary test but the time taken to design, prepare, install etc will be golden...

Top man, great effort

Link to comment
Share on other sites

#45 depends what you're doing with the car. We mandated changing solid rear brake hoses to flexible for all cars, and Rakeway half-shafts for Classics, because we considered them necessary for safety. In my opinion we should have mandated the front hub upgrade for pre-2003 cars as well, since a few people lost front wheels when the hub failed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Haha great thread!  Love my time in the garage....Radio 5 on, maybe a beer on the go (but I do need a fridge in there).  I find it especially 'therapeutic' after a crap day in the office.

This is what I've farted and faffed around with over last 2 years.  Some most definitely 'unnecessary', some slightly more so.

Think the most satisfying was stripping and overhauling the gearshift lever (using CL7C tech guide). Dragged it out for a few evenings last winter, with a very satisfying result....went from being quite 'sticky' to riflebolt-like.

  • Bleed ‘T’ fitted at heater.
  • Replaced thermostat
  • New rear badge
  • Aero fuel filler cap
  • LED headlamp inserts (JAL)
  • Ignition toggle switch – replaced switch and flip-cover
  • All gauges new rubber ring seals
  • New water temp sender
  • Moved fixed passenger Tillett seat back
  • Quaife gear-lever bearing, grease and fit rubber gaiter
  • Re-fitted loose speedo sender
  • Replaced corroded exhaust clamp with stainless
  • Harness QR box overhauled, including ‘handles’ powder coated red
  • Painted nosecone “7” grille, and mesh.
  • New black 6sp gearknob
  • Fit net map pocket
  • Tunnel pocket
  • Scuttle IVA trim
  • Pedals adjusted forward
  • Heel & toe throttle pedal extension
  • Pedal stops (clutch and throttle)
  • Tillett seat rubber edge-trims
  • Re-covered Tillett headrest pads, new badges
  • Replace wiper blades
  • Fuel and water gauges LED bulbs
  • Stack mechanical oil gauge and hose
  • Fit armrests
  • Phone holder bracket
  • Dry sump oil scavenge hose change
  • New door hinges and pins
  • Carbon battery master switch cover
  • Exhaust primary-collector retainer springs replaced
  • Replace front indicator cones (both broke during strip & grease headlamp mounts)
  • ECU re-mapped by K-Maps
  • New battery (Yuasa U1)
  • Union flag badges on bonnet
  • Front ARB – removed, cleaned, new boots, new brackets.
  • Replace fuel sender gasket top of tank
  • Replace fuel line grommet through boot support bracket
  • Refitted boot liner with anti-vib foam
  • Third brake light LED
  • Wedges for reverse and fog lights
  • Front upper trackrod end boots
  • QED remote thermostat.
  • Watts link replace rod ends.
  • Rear ARB – replaced drop links.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...