Autumn / Winter tick Over

[Billy 42]

How long would people recommend running the car for in the autumn / winter?  I can't trickle charge and typically run the car for 15 mins once a week.

[revilla]

If you're going to run it, you need to get the oil fully hot for a while to drive off any dissolved moisture, otherwise you're doing more harm than good (warm moist acidic oil will attack things more aggressively than cold). On mine (1.8 K VVC), 15 minutes of idling would have the water up to temperature but not the oil, by a long way.

[revilla]

You may be better to just disconnect the battery, and maybe turn the engine over by hand (big socket on the front pulley bolt on a K, presume similar on others) a couple of times every now and again.

[Roadsport06]

You'll do more harm than good. You'll need probably 30 minutes driving to get the oil hot enough. Idling would take forever to get the oil hot. Just disconnect the battery.

[7 wonders of the world]

or leave the trickle charger connected but on a daisy wheel timer for 4-6  hours per week

Best thing you can do with you engine over the winter is to remove it and upgrade......  

[ScottR400D]

Problem with leaving the charger coming on a few hours a week is that it goes through its full cycle every week which isn’t the best thing. 

As said, you’ll do more harm than good running for 15 minutes a week.

I had a good blat last weekend, then changed the oil and coolant, (4 yo) and fully disconnected the battery. Plenty of time now to check everything else. 

I will give the battery a trickle for a day or so in a couple of months then just before it goes back in spring. 

[DJ.]

I think 7 Wonders is right

 

It is never good for an engine to just sit unused for months, but driving on salt does much more harm in my opinion. I disconnect the battery while

doing all the winter overhaul jobs ( diff this year.....thanks to Scott) . I don't run it up at all, but do change the oil first. So far after 9 years and 45000 miles, it still runs well and doesn't use oil so it can't be doing too much harm.

 

Duncan

[7 wonders of the world]

Correct Peter,  

should has said adjust daisy wheel / charger to suit battery type, I was basing it on my Li-ion

Lead Acid, AGM and Li-ion all have their own requirements, and quite different discharge rates.

 

 

[TomB]

I’d be astonished if not running modern engines, full of oil and antifreeze for a few months between say November and March did any harm at all. Think of the thousands of cars stored on airfields for months on end.  If your  going to hibernate your car, your best physically disconnecting the battery, sticking the car on stands and leaving it alone. An occasional engine turn or clutch press if you feel like it if probably all that needs doing.  

I always SORN mine (today). I’ll give it a quick wash and run round  the block to dry it, then it’s on stands for tinkering. This year I’m replacing the brake master cylinder as my main job, and a few finishing touches to my rebuild that I didn’t get round to.

[7 wonders of the world]

Engine will be fine, there are 100,00 of brand new cars that have been stood fo a long time now waiting for new owners to be found.

If you want bells and braces then rotate the crank through 180 degrees every couple of weeks - keeps the valve springs happy.

Pop a couple of saucers of kitty litter in the footwells if you garage is damp,change as required

[ScottR400D]

Further to the suggestion to put on axle stands, which is what I always do, I was this year thinking of knocking up some stands to support the car from the wheel studs so that the metalastic bushes are in their relaxed position. 

Any thoughts on that one? 

[7 wonders of the world]

If its been built and torqued correctly the suspension should be in a relaxed position whilst sat on its wheels.

[ScottR400D]

Yes, that’s why I thought stands supporting the car at the wheel studs would be better than letting it all droop, and there’d be no issue leaving the weight on the tyres for a few months. 

 

[Taped_Finger]

What tyre pressure do folks tend to set when storing the car?

I was thinking of putting the car on mobile axle stands and then removing the wheels to take the strain off the suspension.

[revilla]

I think you're over-thinking it. Trying to solve a problem that isn't there. It's a light car. Just put a bit more air in the tyres if you're worried.

[Bricol]

The worst wear and tear on an engine occur in those first moments after the starter turns and it fires - no oil pressure, poorly lubricated cold metal surfaces running against each other . . . you need oil pressure for the bearings to function as they should, metal surfaces running on a cushion of oil, not metal on metal. with non-optimal clearances until it really warms up.  So why do it with no good reason?   I wouldn't even hand turn it - you are still dragging metal across metal.  Modern vavle springs will be perfectly happy.

Everything gets warm-ish - and then you leave it alone - moisture condenses on all the cooling surfaces that collects in the oil and you never boil off unless you drive it properly - not just the engine, the gearbox, the exhaust . . .

Current count of the Bri fleet is eight  . . . they go quite a long time between runs most years, this year only one has been exercised reasonably regularly - my Challenger :)  That sat still in Texas sun for a couple of months when I came home, then another month or two in a container on the high seas, then another few as IVA-ed it.  Never noticed square tyres on any of them, left at normal running pressures.  The ones on the integrale are Michelin Pilots - over ten years old and only showing signs of wear - no cracks, no crazing - just no tread ;)  I was going to replace them this year simply because I thought I ought to, but they still grip rather well in all weathers.

So, given the choice of a dead 30 quid battery and lots of potential wear and tear for no reason . . .

Drive it, or leave it alone.

[Paul Philpot]

Drive it.

I use my 7 as often as I can. It's used all year round unless it's icy, raining/snowing, salt/grit on the road.

I understand this is impossible if you're in the USA or Canada but in the wilds of Surrey/Sussex - no problems.

Thermal vest, T shirt, winter coat, hat and gloves, no roof or doors.

[JohnJo]

That's what I do Paul. I'm now into my second year of ownership and really had no idea what to do over my first winter. That first year was a bit of a trial as I have an unpowered garage so after a few close calls of almost not starting on a fine winters day with a drive planned I eventually gave in and took the battery out.

That was a pain too as whenever it was a fine (but usually cold) day I would think about taking the seven out but that whole battery re-fitting & removing thing often put me off. The arrival of spring had me at a local sports car garage having a battery isolator switch fitted. Best money I've spent on the car.

This winter I plan on using her whenever the weather suits, usually on a fine day after rain has washed salt away. I'll commute to work in her when I can and take her out on weekends. I don't like leaving her idling early morning when neighbours are still sleeping although she'll get a few mins while I close up garage and strap in. I keep her below 3000 revs until water is up to temperature and oil pressure settles. 1.8 K series.

 

[Bricol]

Do you do the same to your everyday car, thats lugging a lot more weight around?  Or just get in an go?  And it still does 100,000 miles plus . . . 

Just curious why people "baby" a car does doesn't do anywhere near the work of their everyday car - had to pull the head from my K-series when the gasket reached its use by date at 30,000 miles - no noticeable wear to bores, cams, bearings, pistons . . . .