MadCat52 Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 Was enjoying a socially distant day at Petworth House today - just as I arrived, bang ... clutch cable snapped. Luckily had a spare and enough tools to fit replacement 'in the field'. Two questions to the wise POBC: a) the cable snapped at the clutch fork and I'm assuming the nipple on the end of the cable fell into the bell housing. I intend to have a ferret with a magnetic probe, but how worried should I be that the end of the cable is in there? b) when removing the cable from the clutch fork, I noticed a small plastic tie fastened on the cable hole in the fork, which I can only surmise was their to prevent the cable end dropping and unattaching itself from the fork. Is that common practice? Car is 05 Roadsport with 1.8 K series. Thanks Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 My build ('98 vintage) included a grommet to go in the hole aside the cable end in the clutch fork. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 If the cable broke at the nipple, it probably won't go anywhere from the bottom of the bell housing. You might find it with a magnet on a stick ... if you can get it past the other steel components of the clutch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 ...magnet on a stick...I use a Draper pick-up tool. Invaluable.JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Piers300 Posted June 26, 2020 Area Representative Share Posted June 26, 2020 Over the last 34 years, I have had to replace the clutch cable three times on my first 7 and 3 times on the one I have now. I have two spare clutch cables in the car. Every time, except the first, it has failed at the clutch fork. Very poor design I think. Piers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 Same design as Ford,used in Cortinas, Escorts, Sierras, Granadas, Scorpios.Same cable since build in my 2001 seven. Same replacement cable in my Dutton trials car for the last 12 years. When I bought it, the cable was badly set-up and on its last few strands. A bit of time making sure the cable was aligned, adjusted so it wasn't too light or too loose - and fitted correctly into the clutch fork and it works just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EEK Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 I think your summation on the plastic tie is correct. I did manage to unhook my clutch cable from the fork whilst driving once. Quite surreal to wonder why the clutch pedal has just "disappeared". Remedy at the time was a cable tie on end of clutch fork to keep cable in. Car is an earlier 1.6 K series. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 Cable end should drop into a dimple in the clutch fork from memory. There should not be any free play in the arm/fork relative to the cable - there should be enough tension in the cable to hold the fork, and the release bearing, against the clutch to keep the bearing in contact and spinning - that tension keeps the cable in place. If its loose, ie the outer is adjust incorrectly, it will move, probably fret against the arm and chew through the cable unless it simply comes un-hooked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 Check no sharp burrs on the notch in the fork where the cable sits. Add another clutch return spring as per John Vine (?) post a few years ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 I think its odd that some cars eat clutch cables and others dont? Mine is the original @ 22 years old and 22k miles.Must be pedal position, position of the cable end in the pedal box (2 big locknuts) and cable adjustment? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Vine Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 ...there should be enough tension in the cable to hold the fork, and the release bearing, against the clutch to keep the bearing in contact and spinning...Exactly so....Add another clutch return spring as per John Vine (?) post a few years ago.This guide. (Thanks for the plug, Ian!)JV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drumster Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 It is strange as I bought my 7 in 1999 (it was 6 years old) and only changed the cable when the operation of the clutch became stiff. It transpired that the inner 'plastic' sheath had become rucked up, no sign of fraying. New cable fitted in March 2006 (51,300 miles) currently on 92,000 miles with the same cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 KOD there Chris. For the same reason I am not commenting, but replaced my cable in I think 2009 when gearbox was being serviced and clutch replaced. Probably 70k miles since. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_P Posted June 27, 2020 Share Posted June 27, 2020 Does not prevent the fork end breakage but I run a little engine oil between the cable and the outer from the top end. I know the liner is probably low friction but the oil does make for a very smooth push. Don't know if it increases longevity but ok up to date. But carry a spare anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadCat52 Posted July 1, 2020 Author Share Posted July 1, 2020 Has anyone fitted a clutch pedal stop ... I suspect part of the problem is over-travel of the pedal putting a strain on the cable ends. Any thoughts on the best way to fit a stop/pictures appreciated. ThanksBob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 What, like this.....https://caterhamparts.co.uk/pedals/1472-clutch-pedal-stop-race.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadCat52 Posted July 1, 2020 Author Share Posted July 1, 2020 ... yes, thanks. That looks like it fits in the footwell bulkhead. Does anyone have a photo of a stop at the top of the pedal box that works on the top of the pedal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 Thats a good idea a always thought the stop fitted in an ally floor not ideal. That said the cable end of the clutch pedal has a lot of mechanical advantage.On the caterham parts website there are other clutch stop parts (CSR Race) but I couldnt figure out how they work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 I fitted a stop through the end of the footwell - simply a long bolt, a large washer inside to spread the load, a bit smaller on e outside, a nut each side to set position and secure it. No deformation after a good few years and lots of gear changes.One fitted at the top end, as already mentioned, would have to a lot stronger to resist the considerable mechanical advantage the pedal creates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 CSR is hydraulically operated, so I guess that that threaded metal disc screws on the master cylinder pushrod and physically stops the pushrod entering any further into the master cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted July 2, 2020 Share Posted July 2, 2020 Thanks Bricol, that makes sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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