Dave_P

I did. Happy to send guide direct if required.My material wasn't much heavier than umbrella cover. But waterproof and uv stable. Can send more pics if you want a bash

Tried the pads ok till parked in full sun all fall down. I ended up cleaning screen and mirror mount back with nail varnish remover, then put a blob of clear bathroom silicone sealer on mirror back push gently into place till you see the whole pad area is covered.hold in place with tape. Leave overnight to cure. Trim excess silicone with blade. Mirror has not moved since. Shame that as I didn't get spot on square.

Thanks for that gents. Found a local repair auto sparks. Have to wait till monday to sort. Typical , blat weather this weekend. I'll post results when sorted.

Alternator on my 2002 K series road sport is not charging at a level to make the red light go out. Checked with meter, not reaching 11 volts and does not alter with higher revs. Does anyone know the part number for ,I suppose the standard rover replacement part. Or the rover model it was fitted to. I see that there were various output amps and threads on here about "brackets" and altrnators not fitting. Help required chaps.

Does not prevent the fork end breakage but I run a little engine oil between the cable and the outer from the top end. I know the liner is probably low friction but the oil does make for a very smooth push. Don't know if it increases longevity but ok up to date. But carry a spare anyway.

Chapman Auto Electricians in Sheffield, repair, renovate,overhaul rotating auto electrical components. Been in business for years. Always ( My experience) good service good prices. May be of use to all. http://www.chapmanautoelectrics.co.uk/about.html

Not a great image. I made a glove box from ply wood, covered in leatherette and shoved it in front of the gear stick. Can get gloves,sun glasses and phone in. No cutting or fixing screws just jammed in.

Good communication with the pedal pusher required. The pedal should be pushed steady down, while you call ,down, down,down. Make sure to close the nipple while they are still going down. Then call off. This way air cannot sneak back when the pedal is at full stroke, while nipple is being closed.I find this works 9 out of 10. Occasionally you will get an air lock and I find opening the bleed a good way then a bang on the pedal moves it downstream. Then revert to normal bleed. I have never used an easy bleed so cannot comment on the effectiveness. Hope this helps you and others

Spray or drip a little water onto each belt, or pulley (if you can get at them) in turn. Squeak will momentarily disappear when you get the right belt. Not foolproof but has usually worked for me.( if it is a belt). Water quickly dries and causes no issues later

Did mine, no big leavers or persuaders required.I,m not far away if you want a hand. Or I can stand,watch and make tutting noises if Mrs H not available. Dave _P

Had the same pink pool in the foot well passenger side and matrix base of my 02 k. After removing the heater and testing it, (same as you do a tyre, sink in a bowl and use foot pump with a few home made adaptors pressurise,dont overdo it look, for bubbles ) I found no leaks. Turned out the leak came from the spiggot/ hose unions.The coolant finds its way back into the heater box. Clean paint and residue off the spiggots, bin the hose clips, replace with good quality jubilee clips ( other clips available, but not recomended). Job done. Fixed. Fingers crossed your is the same.

Yes still have. I will get hold of a thermometer this weekend and test it. Thats the easy bit. Yes it is right that I should share the info but I have no idea where to start, "link" , "thread". To me a link is a part of a timing chain and a thread is something that a screw gets stuck in. I Will seek advice. Thanks Antony, Jonathan.

In May posted about my 1600k overcooling running quickly and very speedy increase when stood. Made a brass elbow bleed/filler placed next to heater. No air locks, no change. Decided to try another thermostat this Saturday. Out for a blattett this morning hey presto perfect temp control. Rock solid at speed, slow increase stood, fan cuts in cools as it should. So it would seem that the old "new" thermostat wasn't working as it should. The new thermostat has a hole but has a small jiggle valve in it. This is a standard 88 deg thermostat from a general car spares. So there you go. Thanks again for all response to original cry for help.

Ok, this is some can of worms. I have thought of blanking part of the rad to cure the over cooling but concerned about the temp increase at rest.(see origional post) I was wondering if replacing the standard fan with perhaps two 7 inch ones. More of the rad would be covered so hopefully less air passing through when fans not running. But when fan required a small increase in cooling would be achieved. Done the maths, but does not take into account fan hub sizes mounting brackets etc. Has any one run with anything other than standard fan setup.

thanks for that. standard layout

Many thanks to all. Revilla, Standard caterham radiator fitted, aluminium 40mm thick at core. John, thorough inspection would indicate all is as Caterham standard.( Is that an oxymoron?)Going to presume pump is ok as I have no way to check pressures. But coolant squirts back to header as in my Astra. Although I am sure there is no air in the system,going to roll out onto steep drive then jack up the front to be sure. If no change will be fitting PRRT thermostat bit pricey but consensus seems to point to this being the surest way (most of the time). Do we agree that the lower temp stat 82-84 deg instead of 88 will be the safest bet. Will post results when done. By the way have you noticed that no matter how careful you are the garage floor takes on a pink hew when you have had the 7 cooling in bits a few times.

I purchased the thermostat from Caterham to ensure correct opening for type. It had had hole in it which I made sure was uppermost. If the only issue was the overheat, We might get to the bottom of it. But the overcooling when working hard and fast is really odd. By the way, thanks to all for advice given so far

Yes heater. Yes hoses same temp and heater works. I filled system as usual then topped off through top heater hose and used a syringe to top off the heater. Then quickly reassembled. The coolant level in the header remains constant. I have done all the hose squeezing exercises too. I now have a grip like Garth.

Can any one help. Have a standard 115hp 1600 k series on a 2002 plate. Under normal steady driving conditions the engine temp is on the mark at around 80deg. When driven at 60 -70mph the temp drops to 60 deg and below. This happens in the length of time for a lap at Curburough, I think this is low for high reving. But driving in traffic, stop starting, the temp climbs quickly to 100 plus. The fan cuts in at the correct point but at best holds the temp, does not reduce and is only remedied when I start moving steady. When I first got the 7 It took an age to warm up and in the winter only just reached temp even on long jaunts.I replaced the coolant and found the thermostat missing. I replaced this so should be as designed. I feel I have been lucky so far not to have an overheat in traffic. Not a mechanical newby but don't understand what can be happening. Newish owner though. Any suggestions desperately recieved. The good weather is here.

No wasn't me. I was working, usual case when the sun is shining.