Planning my first oil change

[mudguard]

I know this is something that many of you do every other month without breaking a sweat, but for me (not the car) it's the first time so all a bit new and unfamiliar. Stop me now before I land myself with a large engine rebuild invoice! 

I'm planning to do it myself because a) I want to b) it's encouraged round these ere parts c) the car isn't due another service for a while and d) it has burnt an x or two of oil over the last 5k and I'd rather replace than top up, because reasons which will become apparent below.

The bits and pieces I've done to the car so far (changed wheels /headlight bulbs/minor cosmetic tidyups etc) have gone very well so I'm confident enough to tackle the next level in getting my hands dirty.

I've read the GTKY7 article and that all seems to make sense. I've also read a couple of gotchas elsewhere which are specific to the K-series 1) careful with the sump plug as it sits in soft aluminum 2) when dropping sump don't forget the two long bellhousing bolts.

Yes, I'm planning to drop the sump after the old oil is out as I want to get a look at the infamous foam and check its condition, and also the oil pickup to check for foam debris. If there's any breakup or crispiness I'm planning to remove the foam permanently. I've read both sides of the great debate and I'm on that side. I know I have to put back the tray it sits in if I remove it. I think I'll not drill the two extra holes in the gasket this time - maybe later.

Question - do I have to get a new sump gasket if I'm dropping the sump? The current one is not leaking so I was planning to reuse it or in the worst case, get hold of a replacement quickly.

I've also read the VVC oil grade debates and am planning to refill with 10w40 semi-synth. Currently it has 5w50 fully synth courtesy of CC. I have 5 litres (mobil 2000) which is allegedly enough for a wet sump car. 

So what else do I know about that's not mentioned in the GTKY7 article? Don't overfill the new oil as it hits the cranks - get it to the bottom of the dipstick, then measure with engine running and top up with it stopped, small amounts each time. Before first start on new oil, turn it over a bit with plugs disconnected to prime the oil system. Prime new filter with new oil before fitting. Sump might be stiff to remove - if so, ensure all bolts are out then put one back a little before "persuasion" to avoid sump flying into the drain tray. Persuade with wood block + mallet not screwdriver. Tighten sump bolts in stages gradually, torque to the numbers I've got noted down somewhere....

Here's the bits I have and am planning to use - 2 axle stands, trolley jack (I'm fine with raising the car safely), spanner to fit sump plug, replacement filter, sump plug and washer, drain tray, funnel, nitrile gloves, chain filter wrench (for removal only), torque wrench, hex bits.

Main thing - if anything goes wrong, leave it alone, don't turn the engine and ask and/or pay for help from someone who actually knows what they're doing. 

Have I missed anything!?

[Jonathan Kay]

Notes from Alcester Racing 7s.

Jonathan

[mudguard]

Thanks Jonathan - haven't seen that before. Much more detailed than GTKY7.

[Alastair B]

Definitely drill the holes in the sump gasket when exposed.

Do the Oily hands modification to the pickup, using suitable metal drift, create 3 indentations to circumference so that when it sits on bottom of sump there is more clearance for oil to flow to pickup tube.

You should also unplug the injector ecoplug harness connector to stop fuel being sprayed into cylinders when you have the plugs out

after all of that you should feel rightly proud for your 1st oil change

[SM25T]

Sump gasket very tough ... And expensive. Reuse ok. Just be careful when you drill the extra holes that the drill doesn't tear it .... clamp wood either side and drill through that.

[mudguard]

The thing that really puts me off attempting to modify the pickup is that replacements aren't readily available should I accidentally smack it a bit too hard.

https://www.lotus7.club/forum/techtalk/k-series-oil-pickup-pipe

The gasket holes are more straightforward and in the worst case new gaskets are available.

 

[Wrightpayne]

Without the gasket holes there is a lot of oil held on the ledge created by the gasket. Be prepared for this to run out in all directions when you pop the sump!

Just take it steady, cleanliness is really important and we're all here to ask if you get stuck.

Regards

Ian

[David Brown]

Wouldn't be bothered about turning over without plugs. That's only done on first start on a new engine. Otherwise it's just the same as starting every time with the oil having run back into the sump overnight. Can't remember exactly the sump drain position on the k but you want it level or at the lowest position. If you just use 2 axle stands you may not achieve this and have a lot of oil left in the sump pan when you drop it. 

[Silver Machine]

Removed sump and foam 12 months ago. The car is a 1997 supper sport. With the car level on front and rear axel stands  then  left to drain for an hour or so there was almost no oil left in the sump or foam. 

[Toby S]

Did mine for the first time a month or so ago on a 1993 1400 Supersport. Went fine but as people say take your time. You seem to have all the key points, and it's pretty straight forward and you suggested route is similar to the way I went about it, although I decided on balance to replace the foam baffle.

Interesting point/pointers arising from my experience:-

• Sump came off fine and had drained well - not huge amounts of oil left, although a bit sludgy at the bottom - not sure when it had last come off
• I was somewhat surprised to fine 1/2 the baffle plate sitting in the bottom of the sump - baffle plate seemed to have split completely in half longways through the securing holes - can only assume it had been bodged together at some point - Fellas at Redline supplied a new one (no they hadn't heard of that one before neither)
• Foam was in reasonably good nick, although there was evidence of small amounts of debris in the pick up pipe gauze. In line with Alcester 7 recommendations, once completing the oil change I also removed the rocker covers to ensure there wasn't any debris which had made it's way up into the comshaft area but it was clean
• I reused the gasket and it was fine - no oil leaks post oil change - I wasn't aware of the drilling holes recommendation at the time hence left it as it was
• Do remember to prime the new oil filter as you suggest  - avoids you worrying yourself silly when there is zippo oil pressure recording when you crank the engine with the plugs out.
• I replaced with 5W/50 Comma oil as suggested

Done around 1,000 miles post oil change and all is well - 4+ bar on start up, dropping to around 1.5 bar at tick over when warm and zipping between to 3 - 4 bar when revved

Good luck

[mudguard]

Thanks for all the suggestions, including some over BM referencing a lowflying article (sadly not in the archive yet) which shows very helpful photos of what to expect when the sump is off. Not having seen these before I somewhat stupidly expected the oil pickup pipe to run vertically to some high recess and thus be tricky to refit in terms of locating that recess. A bit thick given that the oil pump is at crankshaft level.  Now I see that it runs near-horizontally to a hole which will be clearly visible and accessible. Ok so it is slightly tricky to refit anyway because of the alignment with the baffle plate, but I'm expecting that and am aware about the need for loose fitting of the bolts.

With 2 axle stands my Cunning Plan is to lower the car back to the horizontal during the later part of the draining of the old oil, and then raise it again afterward. The profile of the drip tray I have is low enough to permit this.

Now just waiting for the new filter to arrive, then I can crack on.

[Roadsport06]

Toby, you say the foam was in reasonable nick but you say it was starting to break up and debris in the pick up. Sounds like you had a ticking time bomb in the sump and got away with it.

[mudguard]

All done.

The big surprise when I got the sump off was that the foam was pristine - looked like it had been installed yesterday. As far as I know it dates from 2010, unless CC renewed it in 2016 as part of their "81 point check". It was still spongy and plump and I could not break even a small fragment away. There were also no foam fragments in the sump - only about 7 of the strange tiny hard particles mentioned in the Alcester guide. There were no particles of anything in the oil pickup mesh. I noted that the headshell has three substantially raised divots so that it sits proud of the sump base - so maybe it has already had the mod.

So - I left it as it was.

New oil is in and no leaks at temperature. Will check again after a blat.

Couple of things I noticed - the oil pressure gauge read slightly lower (3 instead of 4) after start than previously. At temperature, idle, it's slightly higher at around 1. At temperature and 4krpm, about 3.5 which matches previously. I'm not keen to read too much into this as the sender, in the OEM location, has always been a bit random, and the new oil has a different viscosity. VVC mechs are indeed quieter. The entire 5L container of new oil was necessary to bring it to just below the highest x, engine running, so I need a little more but not urgently.

One warning missing from all the guides is how tough on the shoulders wielding a torque wrench in that position is! But I didn't find the process difficult at all, just time-consuming - sure that was down to the good information from the community (thank you!) and adequate preparation. The "normal" oil change will be a piece of cake now. 

[SM25T]

Oil pressure sender failing. They all do that sir. Go to a mechanical gauge !

[mudguard]

I know, I know. And it's only about 10 months old. But I have the unusual silvered dials and the mechanical gauge will stick out like even more of a sore thumb than it usually does. Maybe remoting the sender is a good compromise.

[Julian H]

You managed to make a sender last 10 months? I only managed 4. Well done on the first oil change. Surprised that CC put in the wrong oil. They should know better.

[SM25T]

Surprised ?? :-)

[mudguard]

Maybe my right foot is softer than yours 

The engine did sound a lot happier when I blatted this morning - but then it always sounds happier with fresh oil. Now the note is crisper and lighter under acceleration. Am I becoming a petrolhead? 

From reading the various threads on here, I don't think 5w50 synth is necessarily "wrong" from a high-revving high-temperature track perspective, it's just that the VVC mechs were apparently designed with 10w40 semi in mind, and there are anecdotes that they wear out more quickly with the oil that CC use as standard for all Ks.

But yes, it is a continuing theme of CC getting things just slightly "wrong" for the car, IMO. Wheels, headlight bulbs, oil, brake light switch, the list continues. I think the lesson is that as an owner you have to step up and make the minor tweaks to make such a big improvement. I'm enjoying the journey!