Logan Colbeck Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 I am forcing myself to complete this task after putting it off for six months now. The car has done 6700miles and was first registered in May 2015. I have followed the GTKY7 advice, but the modified 10mm tool defeats me when attempting to engage the plug. Other than abandoning the task, has anyone a successful method for this? Thank you in advance,Logan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted January 7, 2017 Member Share Posted January 7, 2017 You're trying with a cut down hex bar in a wrench? And it won't go in the recess in the plug head? Or goes in but won't turn the plug?I'd try another section of hex bar. And if that didn't work I'd cut a hole through the side of the tunnel to improve access and see why it isn't working. Some choose to do that anyway.Maintenance notes from Alcester Racing Sevens.JonathanPS: Where are you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted January 7, 2017 Share Posted January 7, 2017 It sounds like you've heard the usual advice. Which box do you have?With the old type 9 it's a fiddle and I always end with oil running down my arm, but it isn't impossible if you have the car supported high enough. The Mazda box is apparently tighter in the transmission tunnel. Duncan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Colbeck Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 Hello Jonathan,I am in Alton, Hants. I have tried using a cut down key as recommended in the GT KY7, but not with a wrench. I wondered about drilling through the tunnel side, but there is a chassis member in the direct line of sight! Many thanks for your swift reply!Logan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted January 7, 2017 Member Share Posted January 7, 2017 I cut down a hex key to make a straight section. Then use a ratchet wrench to turn it.But beware: the first time I used the sort of wrench that you put on the other way to ratchet the other way. The plug unscrewed, followed by a large amount of oil. At which point I tried to screw the plug back in so that I could get a container but the ratchet stopped this when the wrench met the chassis, at which point the plug had withdrawn enough to stop me getting the wrench off the end of the bar! Not quite in the canoe league but funny... in hindsight. If it had happened to someone else.Now I use the type of wrench that has a little lever that you flick to turn the other way.Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Colbeck Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 Hello Duncan,Very grateful for this. I shall dwell on your comment and the notes from Jonathan and have another go in the morning. The thought of even less room to attempt this is awful!Logan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Colbeck Posted January 7, 2017 Author Share Posted January 7, 2017 Hello Jonathan, The notes you sent and your comments on the reversible ratchet will be put to use in the morning!Many thanks for your help---most reassuring!!Logan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seventh-heaven Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 If you are struggling to get a hex bar in it is worth noting that mine is a square hole. I have got it out in the past using a 3/8 ratchet square. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 I just use a shortened allen key and a length of steel tube for leverage and to get my knuckles away from anything hazardous!putting the plug back in I find it better to crawl under from the drivers side of car.Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domus Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Is the gearbox central in the chassis?If not, loosen off the engine and gearbox mountings to push the box over to give yourself a little more room.Once out it is a good idea to Araldite a short section of hex key into the plug for future use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Whitley Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 I followed Guy Lowe's suggestion and fitted a port that lets me use a dipstick. If it needs topping up then simply pour in more oil. The olive is not used, the nut is simply to hold the coupler in place. (The black circle is the rubber seal that fits inside the cap.)I used a knitting needle as a dipstick, I just cut the point off and then put a mark on it at the correct level.You can get the cover off the gearbox while it's still in the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Tony,with that set up you should also be able to use an oil syringe (I have the machine mart one) to suck out the oil to change it for new.Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Tony ... neat idea. Did you drill and tap the lid ... or clearance hole and just use nut to hold fitting in place. Lots of heavy duty loctite ? Hope nut doesn't vibrate loose ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Whitley Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 It's a clearance hole and yes, I used Loctite - though I don't think there's that much vibration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Whitley Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 The original idea came from Quaife. Guy's version is a lot cheaper! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drumster Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 I like that idea, another winter mod. Thanks Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 If you haven't had the cover off for a while ..... the paper gasket can stick to the top of the box or the underside of the cover. May need to peel or scrape any remains off carefully. Tip from Phil at R&R when I removed mine was to smear a little silicone sealant on one side only of the gasket and adhere it to the cover. Then smear a little grease to the underside when you refit the cover. This should help stop the gasket from adhering to the box next time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim 123 Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 I've a 2016 S3 with 5 speed Mazda box. The Manual and GTY are not up to date and you may find your car is similar to mine. Firstly, if you climb headfirst into the passenger foot well, and peel back the carpet, you may find a large blanking grommet that lines up with the gearbox level plug. On my box the level plug is not a recessed hex, it is a square end section that sits proud of the gearbox casing and an appropriately sized socket should do the job from the footwell.Directly below the level plug is a hex bolt that goes into the casing. Don't touch that bolt. Also, the gearbox turret can need topping up separately, this is done by removing the gearstick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan Colbeck Posted January 12, 2017 Author Share Posted January 12, 2017 Many thanks for all of the input. I have gone with Guy's modification to the gearbox top. A fiddle, but I hope it will be worthwhile!! Logan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john milner Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 As an alternative to cutting down a hex key I found a hex bit from my socket set or electric screwdriver that I am able to use with an open ended spanner. Fiddly but it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrightpayne Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 Re top plate filler / dipstick hole I'm going to try it with a 15mm compression tank connector as it tightens from the top so there is visibility of it coming undone. Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 Good plan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mechanical Moz Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 Is there any reason why a blanking grommet couldn't be used to plug a hole in the top plate? Nothing to work loose and at less than £3 for 100 you could fit a new one every time the oil was checked.http://www.screwfix.com/p/tower-pvc-grommet-closed-pack-of-100/18603 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 I think I would prefer something more durable than a grommet, that couldn't fall in ... or out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ. Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 Just occurred to me that the original poster will have to remove the filler plug to check the level is correct before calibrating a top filling dipstick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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