mark_w Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Took the caterham out for a short run and on returning home there was a bad egg smell coming from the car, so did a search on here to discover that I have a cooked and leaked brand new odyssey battery which I have removed. From my searches on here I’m thinking alternator as I now see it should be charging at 14v where I recall seeing 17v coming up on the dash although I need to check this to be sure. Didn’t think anything of the 17v as I had no knowledge of what it should be.Before I start removing the alternator (looks an awkward job) what checks should I be doing to make sure that it is the cause .Thanks Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesElliott Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 If your alternator is putting out 17v, then it probably has.Measure the alternator output and see what it is doing. Should be 13.8v - 14.2v.Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark_w Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 Thanks Charles ,will check this out when I get another battery to start the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Riches Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Mark, can you jump the battery in the 7 to start it?Then disconnect the external battery, the alternator output voltage will be higher initially, as it tries to re-charge the battery, but should drop back to 13 - 14 v once stabilised. If the output remains at the level you indicate, the alternator voltage regulator is toast, and, unfortunately the battery also, possibly. Regulator packs for most alternators are available so you could fix it yourself, the battery however, is probably poked, did it lose much fluid? Possibility of it surviving the ordeal, pretty tough old nuggets them car batteries, if it was fit and healthy before. Regards, Nigel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark_w Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 Thanks Nigel, i have a new battery coming in the post which i was thinking i could jump start from using leads then disconnect and check the voltage i'm thinking the 2 batteries i have have suffered the same fate and one has leaked. good to hear i maybe able to fix the alternator with a regulator pack but dont know if anything can be done for the batteries to keep as a spare.So hope to get to the bottom of this in the next couple of days when the battery arrives Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 what engine/alternator do you have? The older Valeo alternators, as fitted to mid 90's cars and maybe others, have a separate battery voltage sense lead and if this has become disconnected internally or externally, the alternator regulator will not work correctly. The internal connecting wire in mine broke due to exhaust heat hardening the insulation and vibration fatiguing the wire. I remade the connection and it's been fine ever since.You should definitely check the battery electrolyte level and, preferably, the specific gravity as well although maybe you can't do that with your battery type.I would check out the alternator with an old battery before you fit the new one to make sure you don't over voltage it.Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark_w Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 its a 1900K and this alternator was thinking i maybe able to replace the regulator without removing the whole alternator, Peoples thoughts on this welcome (good / bad idea).But failing that might just get the whole thing out at the weekend once i've run the voltage check but yes going to have a go with one of the old batteries or start with the new one on jump leads and disconnect quickly. woodauto dont have the regulator in stock and haven't got back to me on when they can supply but found this RTM152B regulator on sale in germany on Ebay.is there any other good uk suppliers of parts ?Also thought of a recon alternator but would probably prefer to repar the one i have if possiblethanks Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 a local auto elecrics firm will often repair it for less than the price of an exchange unit. Yell.com will usually find a suitable firm nearby. BTW, don't disconnect the battery when the engine/alternator is running or you stand a good chance of blowing the regulator or diode pack.I doubt you'll be able to swap the regulator in situ. Can't be that hard to remove the alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark_w Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 Paul thanks for the advice. especially about disconnecting the battery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 You're welcome. This why the FIA cut out switch connects a resistor as a load across the alternator at the same time as it disconnects the battery, to avoid a voltage spike hitting the regulator. Having the headlights on will do the same thing, but less convenient Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grubbster Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 With a 1900k I'm guessing you are revving pretty high, have you swapped the alternator pulley to reduce the speed it runs at? Just a thought, maybe not relevant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark_w Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 Got the engine running and the voltage was reading 20v . So out with the alternator at the weekend for checks . I haven't had the car too long but i believe it's got an R500 pulley So i'm thinking its ok in the way it's set up. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Field Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Mark,Might be a bit late now, but Curd Bros in Tunbridge Wells will do a great refurb job - I know several members who have used them. 01892 542680Terry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SM25T Posted February 18, 2015 Share Posted February 18, 2015 Also TA Spares next to the station in Chatham. Great service. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark_w Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 Thanks for the recomendations there , had to remove the exhaust and primaries apollo hose and the ali alternator bracket to get it out . i have got a voltage regulator coming in the post now so hoping that will solve my problem . Would like to get it bench tested before re fitting if anyone know of any in the Essex area?Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark_w Posted March 21, 2015 Author Share Posted March 21, 2015 Have now got a new problem where having re fitted the alternator I now find that it's not charging the battery with the voltage showing 12.4 haven't driven the car but have revved it but no change to the voltage. I did get the alternator bench tested before I re fitted and that showed around 14v. So would welcome any ideas as to what I should try next...thanks Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 if it tested okay on the bench then it sounds like a poor connection or wire off. How many wires are there to the alternator and what are their colours? If your wiring is per the manual they should be Brown (heavy), Brown/Yellow and White/red.Does the ignition warning light come on when the ignition is first switched on? If so, does it go off when the alternator is running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark_w Posted March 21, 2015 Author Share Posted March 21, 2015 Two wires one thick and one thin both look brown Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 just edited my previous!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark_w Posted March 21, 2015 Author Share Posted March 21, 2015 Yes ignition light comes on then goes off when running . Going to have to check the wiring tomorrow as seems I may have missed a wire thanks for your help Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Member Jonathan Kay Posted March 22, 2015 Member Share Posted March 22, 2015 What Paul says.Still the same alternator as Post #7... do you have a wiring diagram for it?Jonathan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 I don't have the details for your alternator type but on my Valeo there's a separate battery sense wire that controls the regulator output. From the picture on your link it looks as though there are only two connections, one to the starter (this is the main +12V connection to the battery) and one to the ignition warning light. In your case the sense wire may be connected internally within the alternator rather than taken back separately to the battery, which is another way of doing it. Did you remake all the connections to the replacement regulator. You didn't have a connection with nowhere to go?Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark_w Posted March 22, 2015 Author Share Posted March 22, 2015 Yes still the same alternator http://www.lotus7.club/sites/default/files/images/Docs/Guides/73414%20Engine%20Harness%20K-seriesR3_4_5.pdf. Is the diagram I have looked at and it only has the thick brown and thin brown yellow wire , looking at the thick brown connection to the starter the metal eye connector feels very fatigued as if its going to break so I will get that sorted . And didn't have any spare connections inside and it did check ok on the bench test Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 can you get a meter onto the large alternator terminal and measure the voltage. Do it first with the engine not running/ignition off, and see if the battery voltage (12V 'ish) is present. If not the wire is broken somewhere. Then try it with the engine running, but watch your fingers! You should see about 14V here and at the battery when the revs are up a bit and it's charging.It does sound like a dodgy connection somewhere. If it worked on the bench it should be okay. How did you test it, with a battery connected and an electric drill to turn it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark_w Posted March 22, 2015 Author Share Posted March 22, 2015 Engine not running voltage read 13v, with engine running its 12.5v same across battery and on dash. Just to check for school boy errors on the way I have it wired the 2 terminals on the alternator are B+ which is the larger threaded terminal large brown wire, D+ which is the smaller with the brown yellow wire. I had it checked at an alternator and starter motor specialist and he had the proper equipment to spin it up and check which has got me thinking I have made some silly mistake refitting it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now