k series click

[phil Scown]

Apologies for resurecting an old problem.....

I'm in the process of sorting out my intermitant starting problem - all the necessary bits purchased. 

The instructions, gathered from a blatchat link, state that I should "Detatch the smaller wire (i.e. NOT the big red one) from the rear of the solenoid...".  This is to go to terminal 86 on the new relay.  The problem is that my solenoid has three terminals on it, with:

i) big red wire and smaller wire,

ii) thickish black wire - but smaller than thick red wire,

iii) short thin wire going into the starter body;

which means I have three candidate wires.

Can anyone advise which wire I should move to pin 86 on the new relay?

Thanks

 

[paul richards]

A picture might help.

Generally speaking there will be 2 large terminals on the solenoid and one small one. One of the large terminals will have a thick red wire that goes to the battery. The other large terminal will have a very short wire connected to the adjoining starter motor. There should be a smaller wire which disappears into the loom (eventually). It is the latter that you connect to your relay.

Hope this helps.

[Jonathan Kay]

What Paul says.

Do you have the wiring diagram and, if not, would you like one?

Standard colours for wires.

Jonathan

[A7 OOH]

 

Is this relay modification valid for any K series, I run a  1.4 Supersport with a UCU2 .

Thanks

Gordon

[SM25T]

Yes.

[A7 OOH]

Thanks SM25T

 

[SM25T]

You are effectively bypassing the tiny little relay inside the MFRU. This is a good thing, as this is way too small for this duty.

[A7 OOH]

On a final note from me, what size cables are used for the conversion and what in-line fuse is recommended.

[SM25T]

I went for overkill and used the 27A cable from Halfords for all cables to/from the new relay and down to the solenoid. The bigger the CSA the less resistance.

[A7 OOH]

Thanks SM25T

[Gary Stone]

Mod still didn't compleatly cure mine. I still get the 'click' on occasion.

I should add that I have taken my starter apart & cleaned the contacts. I have still had the click at least once after doing that.

[Ian B]

The relay in the MFRU is adequate for the job, however the connections and loom wiring in the Caterham install can cause enough resistance to reduce the power available to the solenoid.

Howwever, as Gary says, that's not the entire problem, and there is no one fix fits all.

Corrosion of the terminals on the starter and solenoid, heat damage (usually internal) to the cables, and the alignment of the solenoid can all be contributary factors.  

[Steve Sheldon]

Buy a Powerlite RAC430 and you will not get any more clicks. My car is 1999 K VVC with 4 into 1 exhaust - all wiring is as original. Used to click all the time. Heat is the problem as it stops the current passing throught the windings. Worth a call to Powerlite who will explain all as they used to deal with Caterham.

[Jonathan Kay]

If I acquired the affliction I'd start with making sure there was enough current getting to the starter before replacing it.

Jonathan

[Bricol]

Indeed.

 

My 2001 Cat sill has orginal starter and original main cables to it. Once it clicked twice, I totally bypassed the Caterham loom with a new relay, a new wire from the ignition switch, and new power wires to the relay and new wire from relay to starter.  I used nothing in the original Caterham loom other than using the ignition switch.

 

Many years and thousands of miles later, in all weathers, stored outside most of the time, still works fine.

Bri