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1.6 K-Series won't start - battery, starter motor or something else?


Steve Causey

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So my 2005 ex-Academy car, which is used for sprinting, won't start. Symptoms are as follows:

 

* Ignition on - can hear fuel pump running.

* Turn to start position - starter turns over very slowly and engine won't start.

* Repeated attempts result in starter getting even slower.

 

All of which suggest battery. However:

 

* I installed a Varley Red Top 25 three and a half years ago. Responses to an earlier post suggest that it's unusual for them to fail so quickly.

* When in the garage it's always connected to a charger/conditioner.

* Conditioner indicates that the battery is fully charged.

* 20 mins or so after attempting to start the car as described above and then reconnecting the conditioner it again shows fully charged.

* Talked to the Varley DMS guys. They said to fully charge the battery, disconnect the charger and check the voltage 8 hours later (checking immediately after charging can give false results apparently). They said should be 12.8V or above. I'm seeing 12.9V using a meter.

 

So is it the battery or has the starter motor given up? Or is there something else wrong? As far as I can tell all the connections and leads are ok.

 

Sorry for the long post!

 

Steve

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Measure voltage across battery when standing ... and while cranking starter. See how low it drops. Much below something like 9V and the ECU won't let it start.

 

However ... check the connections of all the fat cables ... red and black.

 

There will be earth cables (black) from battery to engine and engine to chassis. Every chance that one has some corrosion which will cause a high resistance. Undo each and clean then up to shiny metal before refixing.

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Quoting Steve Causey: 
Thanks for the quick response guys. No haven't tried jumping it from another car. If it starts that would point to the battery. If it does the same thing again that would suggest starter motor - correct?

 

Probably, but could also be rubbish jump leads (there are some terrible ones around) or poor connection between the battery and the starter motor (eg. a problem with the FIA switch).

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Steve,

Do you have a master switch?

If so, I'd try disconnecting the battery leads and joining them together (or fix them both to the same post on the switch?

Have you removed and cleaned the battery to engine earth lead connections?

 

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My starter was reconditioned in 2006 & worked perfectly until last summer. Similar symptoms & would even start the engine with the help of a big, big jump start battery.

 

Took the starter off & fitted my spare. Now starts 1st time.

 

So if the battery is OK & you're sure the wiring is in good order...............

 

Good luck.

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Update. Voltage on cranking is in the range 6 to 7 volts so I think the battery's knackered. Haven't tried jumping yet (waiting for decent leads to a arrive) but have cleaned all the connections on the 'thick' cables.

 

Bit disappointed that the Varley only lasted 3 1/2 years. Based on feedback to earlier post Odyssey seem to be the ones to go for. Is the PC680 Extreme 25 the one I need?

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I use an Ultramax from eBay... They used to be a lot cheaper but are still probably slightly cheaper in terms of £/yr. My first one lasted 2.5years until the casing cracked.

 

The Ultramax NP20-12 (20Ah), Odyssey PC680 (18Ah) and Varley Red Top 25 (16Ah) are all very similar in size (with the Odyssey being a few mm larger each way than the other two), so all should fit the same battery box/cage.

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