Roger Ford Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 I need to cut some holes in the base of my Brian James Minno trailer. The aim is to fit some of these lashing rings to use with Mac's Wheel Nets. The lashing rings are recessed, so will need holes cut the size of the centre section plus four holes drilled for the bolts. Any idea the best way to do this and how much of a pain it will be? I don't have access to any high power laser beams, but I do have a variety of electric and air saws, air grinders and a Dremel Compact Saw. A much easier option might be to get these instead, which just require an M8 hole each. But they're not flush fit, so might be a bit more awkward to roll the car over. Edited by - Roger Ford on 13 Jan 2014 21:24:37 Edited by - Roger Ford on 19 Jan 2014 17:17:33 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7TOM Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Hi There is various ways you could make the hole for the flush mount including good old fashioned chain drill and file, but my main reason for posting is please don't fit the other 8mm option you linked as they are not man enough they look more like estate car/van internal lashing rings. 😶🌫️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 not sure if you could accommodate non flush fittings but THESE would make life easier, should be able to find them in M12 or M10 too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Ford Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 They don't necessarily have to be completely flush, but I think those might make it rather hard to get the car on the trailer. Thanks, 7Tom. Chain drilling had occurred to me but I'm afraid it will take a very long time. You're probably right about those lightweight fittings. These ones might be a better bet, though that's a significant lump of metal to drive the car over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 wonders of the world Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Arh OK, then I'd ring a local engineering / welding firm and ask if they could plasma cut them if you marked them out - few beer tokens should be all that's needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesElliott Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 There are already lots of holes in the trailer floor - why not drill another one so that the hook would go down through the existing (largeish) hole and then the end of the hook would come up through the newly drilled hole? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesElliott Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 I assume that the existing holes are not big enough for the recess? Or how about these. Don't think it will be too much trouble to get over them. Or pay Martin to come out and fit/drill them for you..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Deslandes Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 sounds like you're making work to me. I use the triangular restraint fixings that Brian James supply and, even though they're proud of the floor, I've never had any problem rolling the car over them, either driving or using the hand winch. At a pinch I can usually push it over as well with a bit of rocking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Ford Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 Quoting CharlesElliott: There are already lots of holes in the trailer floor - why not drill another one so that the hook would go down through the existing (largeish) hole and then the end of the hook would come up through the newly drilled hole? None of them are inline with the wheels. Skydragon something similar but I was hoping for something neater. Hope he won't mind me posting his photo: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve m Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 If it was me I'd use one of these here and then finish the square end with a jigsaw or file. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Ford Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 That looks good - didn't know you could get metal hole saws that big. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Lowe Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 I just fitted an 8 mm square U bolts (if that makes sense) in front of the rear wheels and behind the front wheel. Hook a 5 metre strap on the back of the trailer, over there rear wheel through the first U bolt, along the deck through the next U bolt, over the front wheel and the onto the ratchet which is bolted to the front of the trailer. So all the drilling is only 8.5 holes and strapping the car down takes less than a minute. Have a look HERE HERE and HERE, If you need more info or pictures Roger please feel free to email me, or you could pop down the M3 and take a look. Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Ford Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 That's very neat (and cheap!). So you just have a single strap running longitudinally along each pair of wheels? I think the Macs wheel nets should be more secure than that, but I could certainly use your U bolt technique to mount them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Lowe Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Quoting Roger Ford: That's very neat (and cheap!). So you just have a single strap running longitudinally along each pair of wheels? Yep so quick to strap down and very secure. Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2GBR Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 I use a flush fit lashing ring but mounted underneath the trailer just behind each rear wheel of the car on the trailer as per op (daisy chain a few holes knock the centre out then half moon file to shape drill four holes and bolt in) then a leaf spring U bolt as per other posting in front of the rear wheel fixed so that the U bolt can slide up down around 10mm. Push car to front wheel chocks then use a 3 inch strap with hook on end which hooks onto Lashing ring then vertically up and over centre of rear tyres then vertically down and under the U bolt then ratchet unit latches onto a lug at rearmost trailer axle mounting bolt point. This way all the loading is straight down and the car is free to move vertically on it shocks. Without any stress on the chassis Edited by - 2GBR on 14 Jan 2014 13:29:10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Ford Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 Humm. Well, the wheel nets arrived today (ordered them at Autosport with ~20% discount). In spite of a chap from Demon Tweeks assuring me that I needed medium (in spite of the website saying small for 13 inch wheels), they look far too large to me: I don't think they've actually got the small ones, so looks like I might be giving up on this and going for Guy's or 2GBR's technique instead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy bell Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 as ever some truely ingenious ideas here that get me thinking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Lowe Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 They look far too big Roger 😳 Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Ford Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 How did you attach the ratchets, Guy? Are there just screws through the trailer into that wooden block? Looks like you're using 50mm (2 inch) straps - is that correct? 50mm ones seem a lot more available and a lot cheaper than 75mm ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Lowe Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Quoting Roger Ford: How did you attach the ratchets, Guy? Are there just screws through the trailer into that wooden block? No the ratchets I bought had pre drilled holes so I used M10 bolts to bolt them direct to the chassis HERE, then drilled the wheel stop block slightly so it fits over the nut flush with the chassis rail. Quoting Roger Ford: Looks like you're using 50mm (2 inch) straps - is that correct? 50mm ones seem a lot more available and a lot cheaper than 75mm ones. Yes there are rated at 4000Kgs which seemed enough and they are quite cheap (but not from screwfix ) Guy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Ford Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 Where did you get the square u-bolts? Not finding them easy to source. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boris Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Call Don at Bats in Northampton here he'll give you all the best advise and supply all you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guy Lowe Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 Quoting Roger Ford: Where did you get the square u-bolts? Not finding them easy to source. take your pick:- here here here The Transit leaf spring ones look strong but expensive. Guy. ETA The ones I got have 'BACK PLATES' which fit under the trailer bed to spread the load, I would recommend you do the same & if they don't come with them, buy some or make some up. Edited by - Guy Lowe on 15 Jan 2014 08:45:40 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy bell Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 did you send back the nets roger just wondering if the small ones worked far better? I guess you need to do all four wheels to ensure its 100% secure? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Ford Posted January 18, 2014 Author Share Posted January 18, 2014 The mediums have gone back to Tweeks. They didn't have any small ones so I've ordered them from Old Hall Performance. Should arrive Monday. I'm only intending to do the back wheels, and will hook up the winch at the front. I think it should be solid enough unless I roll the trailer. With cycle wings and "race" wing stays I think it would be quite hassle to get them on the front wheels. In fact it might not work at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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