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Build almost complete - starter motor wiring or immobiliser issue - NOW RESOLVED


UremaW

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Having problems with the final part of the build - starting it up for the first time. I'm fairly sure it's a wiring issue, but as the instructions were pretty vague and there was no wiring diagram, i'm not sure what i'm doing wrong.

 

From various searches on here, it seem like the small white and red ring terminals (of which I have two) go on the smaller of the three pins on the back of the starter. The rest of the connections (red cable to battery live, black cable to alternator, and the 2 brown cables to the solenoid) all go on the outside pin.

 

here

 

When i connect up the battery, the little LED in the middle of the dash starts blinking (immob?) and the dials light up. When i turn the ignition to position 2 i hear various things priming as they should, but the little LED start flashing quickly and the furthest switch from the driver (looks like engine warning bulb - exclamation mark) comes on. When i press the starter button nothing happens. No clicks, whirs or loud bangs.

 

I've got the inertia switch disconnected as i want to build oil pressure first. Also, it's a Duratec 180 in a supersport r, if that makes any difference.

 

I can only presume it's to do with the way i've wired the starter. Either that or its a problem with the immobiliser. The keys have a little fob on them, but i presume this just works via proximity rather than being a manual activate/deactivate?

 

Any advice you could give would be much appreciated.

 

Edited by - UremaW on 14 Jul 2013 14:00:35

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Thanks for the advice. I've been out to the garage and found the aerial cable, but even when pressing the fob against it, the starter still doesnt kick in. The LED does go off when i turn the key to position 2, but there are no sounds coming from the fuel tank behind me so beginning to think the immobiliser may be DOA. Which would be... vexing. :(
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I think your immobiliser is working as the light has gone off. From memory they light flashes slowly when armed, quickly when ignition is on and it's waiting to read the fob and when the immobiliser is off so is the light off. There won't be any noises from the fuel pump if the inertia switch is disconnected.

 

Personally I would take the two white/red wires off the starter and bridge across the big battery+ connection and where the you took the red/white wires off to see if the starter is works, be careful as there will be quite a spark when you touch the wire on the terminal. Then I would check the relay under the dash to see if it's in place and clicking when you press the button and then the fuse. If there is no click from the relay then scuttle off I'm afraid.

 

Jason

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It's possible the starter button is not wired in. I recall that from a previous post on here.

 

On my supersport you can just twist the key to start the engine same as a "normal" car as an alternative to pressing the start button. I have to lift the fob up a bit to get it closer to the wire loop to turn off the immobiliser so it sounds like you are passed that stage. Try giving the key a twist a bit further once the immobiliser has disengaged.

 

Mark

 

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Thanks guys.

 

Dave from Jocks7 gave me a couple of things to try, and we've proved that the immobiliser is working fine. So it's back to the wiring.

 

I've bridged the starter and it definitely works (and sparks!). And now i know how to disable the immobiliser, the starter button is making a click when I press it. Turning the key doesn't make any difference.

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It looks to me like i've wired it up the same was as recommended in those threads.

 

Battery positive wire (red) goes to the correct pin on the solenoid

Alternator positive wire (brown in black heatshrink) goes to the same pin

Two brown ring connectors which power the chassis loom also go to that pin

Then the red/white wires (described as red/brown in the guide) go to the smaller pin

 

Doesnt seem to be any other way to connect it, and this seems to be how others have done it too.

 

I've tried leaving off the 2 brown ring terminals, but Derek from Caterham said they had to go to the solenoid, and plus, without them, the car has no power at all.

 

I've tried reconnecting the inertia and turning the key to position 2 - the fuel pump primes nicely, so there's no immobiliser issue.

 

I've tried applying 12v direct to the starter and it spins happily. So it's fine and the block is earthed properly too.

 

The relay in the fuse box clicks when trying to start, but other than that, nothing.

 

I've even tried jumping the car in case the supplied battery was flat, but this made no difference.

 

I'm confused....

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Nah when I tested the starter, I put 12v to the terminal on the starter itself. Will try connecting it to the small pin on the solenoid tomorrow morning. Going to get a multimeter and find out what's happening (if anything) when the button is pressed.
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Found out the culprit. Removed the fusebox and found one of the wires going into the relay had come apart from the spade terminal. Recrimped a new terminal on there and the starter now works.

 

Happy to have got to the bottom of the problem

Annoyed at the poor quality control at the factory

Delighted to hear the engine fire up! Sounds amazing.

 

 

Time to break out the champagne. I officially have a working car! :)

 

Many thanks to all the help and advice from the guys on here and Dave from jocks7. Very much appreciated.

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Hahaha. I'm still grinning like a gormless idiot now! :D

 

Had my first drive in it (admittedly only out the drive and back in again) and it was very special indeed. It's the first time i've ever driven any Caterham, let alone one i've built. Feels like nothing else I've ever driven.

 

I've got a feeling that if i can keep it out of hedges and away from camera vans, we're going to have a long and exciting relationship.

 

Time for some celebratory fizz i think...

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