UremaW

Thanks guys. Selling the Caterham was never in my plans, but the realities of young children, catchment areas, and mortgage deposits are forcing my hand somewhat. In saying that, if it doesn't sell, let's just say I won't exactly be gutted! At least I can explain to my wife I tried! ;)

​No longer for sale. Mods - please delete.

That's really helpful Tom, thanks. Definitely looks a lot better without it's chin scraping along the floor and it's bum in the air! Waiting to hear back from Caterham parts about the extension pieces.

Re: circlips on damper - interesting, I wasn't aware of that. Will check them out tonight and see what I can find. Thanks!

Can't remember the exact clearance when i last measured but I remember that it was classed as being at the lower end of acceptible. I'd like it to be an inch higher for safety, but my main aim is to be able to get the car flat-floored. As it is, it would be pointless at both shocks are set to their highest level. Any adjustment would therefore bring it lower, which would mean i'd struggle to get out my drive! I'm not sure how to post a photo of my actual car, but if you look at the main photo in this article, the rear wing gap is same as mine. http://www.pistonheads.com/news/ph-driven/driven-caterham-supersport-r/26813 Whereas in the article below, the same wheels sit more squarely (!) in the rear arches on the red R300 (see smaller side photo part way down the page) http://www.pistonheads.com/road-tests/road-tests/a-caterham-for-all-seasons-r300-vs-roadsport-175/20424

Having had my Supersport R for 2 years now, I'm finally getting round to sorting out the suspension. The car came direct from caterham with 'Supersport' (adjustible bilstein) suspension, but as with all Supersports, it sits too low at the front and too high at the back for my liking. At the front, even though it has widetrack front wishbones, the spring/damper units do not have the usual extentions, so i have had to adjust the platforms to their absolute highest setting to protect the sump from catseyes! At the back (with 13" wheels fitted) i've set the platforms to their lowest possible setting but there is still a large fist-sized gap between the wing and the tyre. Is it possible to retrofit widetrack extentions to the front damper units to allow me to lift the front slightly? And can i fit shorter springs to the rear dampers to allow the rear to sit a bit lower? Not 'slammed' - just to make it look the same as pretty much every other seven. I'd rather not replace the entire suspension as the car is used 95% on the road so i wouldnt want anything too harsh. I'd also prefer to keep 13" wheels if at all possible too.

Hi there. I've had my Supersport R for a year now - I built it last summer and completed the running in process in late spring this year. Ever since I've been able to use full revs, Ive found the gearbox crunches when changing from 1st to 2nd if the revs are over 4,500rpm. I assumed that the clutch needed adjusted or bled, so tried this a few times to no avail. I changed the gearbox oil too just in case (PitA). Eventually, with the 12 month warranty due to expire, I booked it in with Caterham (using Revolutions in Perth) to have them look at it. Unfortunately due to a series of unfortunate circumstances between the dealer and the factory, they ended up having the car for 2 1/2 months getting the gearbox out, sent down to Road and Race for repair, then back to Revolutions for fitting. Complete nightmare missing out on the whole summer (and 2 booked track days and a proposed road trip with mates), but I was just glad to get the car back. When I picked it up, I was advised to keep the revs low on the drive home to let the box bed in. I did a couple of hundred miles like this and all seemed fine, but when I first tried revving it above 4,500rpm again (with engine/fluids up to temp), crunch. Not good. I've dropped it back to Revolutions again to have the box removed and sent down south, but have asked for a proper gearbox swap now. I took a short (poor quality) video clip to demonstrate the issue. Holding the revs steady at about 4,500-4,750rpm in first, then changing slowly into second. It happens every single time. http://youtu.be/UBfqQsK0pdQ Has anyone else experienced this? Its the 5-speed Type-9 box. Brand new in July 2013. cheers Scott

Congratulations. It's a great feeling!

Definitely bond directly to the wing stays, having first stripped off the powdercoat from the top, roughed up both contact surfaces and cleaned them with nail varnish remover or similar. Apply plenty of Sikaflex to the wings, line them up properly over the wheels, then tape the wings to the wheels to hold them tight for 24 hours until cured. Then apply more sikaflex so that it coats the wingstay completely. Leave another 24 hours to set. Worked perfectly for my original wings, and only took 10 minutes with a stanley knife to remove when i went to fit my new carbon wings last weekend. Some pictures are available in the build diary - Blog

I completely forgot to label up the switches, but my friendly IVA inspector helpfully made some temporary labels up for me using post-it notes, passed the car first time, then peeled them off again and put them in the bin. Top bloke.

Definitely interested in costs for normal and heated inserts!

I've recently purchased a set of front wings from Ultimate Carbon, and while the quality won't be keeping Horatio Pagani up at night, it's still excellent for the money.

Can't remember many specifics, but things that stood out were a couple of bolts for mounting the dedion ears to the tube, plus the nuts and bolts which seal the lid onto the air box. Oh and the fuse box cover with the cutout for the 12v socket. A couple of spare relays wouldn't go amiss either. I had two DOA.

It was missing from my kit too. Along with all the other items you've listed on your blog too!

P.s. top job on the cooling diagram!

I don't have access to the car tonight, but from memory I think there's a little ring connector with a male spade connector on the other end. You bolt the connector to submarine, then connect the earth cable to that. Will double check tomorrow though.

Or you could use your phone and get free satnav too :) here

Ps why did I not think to use an Allen key. I have hundreds of Allen keys. Proof, were proof needed, that I'm a moron. :) Though at least I have some cool criss-cross scarring from the hss drill bit to impress the ladies with. Erm, yeah.

No worries. Piping goes as follows:- Top of radiator to water inlet Larger of the two water outlets at back of head to t-jobby T-jobby to bottom heater inlet (via metal valve doofer) Heater outlet (top of valve doofer) to modine (offside) Modine (nearside) to blue t-piece (which connects to the water pump) Water pump to bottom of radiator Other end of blue t-piece to expansion tank Smaller outlet at back of head to expansion tank The j hose which connects the water outlet to the t-jobby will seem too big. This is apparently normal (and shoddy imho). Clamp it up tight with a jubilee clip, the tighten it again after a week or so.

Meant to say, the three earth points I remember (and my memory is awful btw so please don't take this as gospel) are:- Block to chassis Battery to bell housing Alternator to chassis

Yep, copper coloured plug goes into a copper 'submarine' t-piece which should be in your cooling box/bag. You cut one of the hoses that comes from the back of the head and the t-piece slots in between them. The sensor plug then screws into the vertical socket of the t-piece. Not described very well but it'll make sense when you see the part. The other ring terminal next to the plug then is screwed onto the bolt that comes out of the side of the t-piece to earth it. You'll also find 4 female spade terminals in square black mouldings which are on the same part of the loom as the oil modine. These aren't used so can be cable tied out the way. I tried to take a photo just now but mine are so tightly wrapped out to get it though the IVA, it's proving difficult to photograph! John is spot on with all the starter/earth wiring advice. :)

No problem at all. I was only able to build the car by asking numerous questions on here, so I'm delighted to be able to pay something back. Re C spanner, I didn't get one either, but I improvised by using a drill bit (6mm I think). Remember to wrap the sharp bits in duck tape first or you'll end up with a messed up hand. Ask me how I know that... Re starter wiring. It's was another thing that took days to get right as the manual is crap. Best thing is it I take some photos tonight and post them on here for you.

New holes. I was wary at first - attacking your dream car with a drill just feels wrong - but it was fine. Other thing I meant to mention on your blog - save yourself some time and adjust the front suspension to its highest setting now (by adjusting for maximum preload). You'll only have to do it later otherwise, when you lower it off the axle stands and realise your sump sits 3cm off the road!

Yep the modine is already fitted. It's the little unit at the bottom of the block underneath the plenum and washer bottle. There's two pipe outlets on it, and a couple of cables. The only bracket you need to fit is for the oil breather bottle, which sits in the front near side of the engine bay, in front of the washer bottle. I spent a good day working all that lot out!

If you think access is a pain now, wait till you have to feed the other pipes and cables through the same area later! With any luck, you won't dislodge the washer bottle like i did. Refitting that with all the coolant pipework in place was an exercise in inventive swearing. :)