UremaW

If its the stage of the manual when the talk about connecting the aluminium outlet to the water rail, then I had the same problem. Turns out on the duratec, they replaced the aluminium outlet with plastic (the box at the back of the head with all the outlets on it) and got rid of the water rail completely. It's all one long rubber pipe from the back of the head to the top of the radiator. You can't miss it - it's the biggest pipe in the kit and its the only one which isn't coated in vinyl.

One step closer to putting these problems behind you. Good news. You'll be out and about in no time.

Putting the finishing touches to my Supersport R build, and noticed the rear anti roll bar sits fairly loose in its mountings, in that it can slide laterally through the bushes by about 10mm. Almost like its missing some washers, except obviously there would be no way of fitting washers to the ARB. Is this something to worry about or am I just having pre-IVA jitters? Cheers Scott Build diary

Yeah ive been reading about your woes on PH. Hopefully you can get it sorted out soon. Would be good to have a wee run out with the Scottish owners before winter sets in (3 weeks time!)

Hahaha. I'm still grinning like a gormless idiot now! :D Had my first drive in it (admittedly only out the drive and back in again) and it was very special indeed. It's the first time i've ever driven any Caterham, let alone one i've built. Feels like nothing else I've ever driven. I've got a feeling that if i can keep it out of hedges and away from camera vans, we're going to have a long and exciting relationship. Time for some celebratory fizz i think...

Found out the culprit. Removed the fusebox and found one of the wires going into the relay had come apart from the spade terminal. Recrimped a new terminal on there and the starter now works. Happy to have got to the bottom of the problem Annoyed at the poor quality control at the factory Delighted to hear the engine fire up! Sounds amazing. Time to break out the champagne. I officially have a working car! :) Many thanks to all the help and advice from the guys on here and Dave from jocks7. Very much appreciated.

Nah when I tested the starter, I put 12v to the terminal on the starter itself. Will try connecting it to the small pin on the solenoid tomorrow morning. Going to get a multimeter and find out what's happening (if anything) when the button is pressed.

It looks to me like i've wired it up the same was as recommended in those threads. Battery positive wire (red) goes to the correct pin on the solenoid Alternator positive wire (brown in black heatshrink) goes to the same pin Two brown ring connectors which power the chassis loom also go to that pin Then the red/white wires (described as red/brown in the guide) go to the smaller pin Doesnt seem to be any other way to connect it, and this seems to be how others have done it too. I've tried leaving off the 2 brown ring terminals, but Derek from Caterham said they had to go to the solenoid, and plus, without them, the car has no power at all. I've tried reconnecting the inertia and turning the key to position 2 - the fuel pump primes nicely, so there's no immobiliser issue. I've tried applying 12v direct to the starter and it spins happily. So it's fine and the block is earthed properly too. The relay in the fuse box clicks when trying to start, but other than that, nothing. I've even tried jumping the car in case the supplied battery was flat, but this made no difference. I'm confused....

Yep, definitely get a click from the fusebox when i press the starter button or turn the key to position 3.

Thanks guys. Dave from Jocks7 gave me a couple of things to try, and we've proved that the immobiliser is working fine. So it's back to the wiring. I've bridged the starter and it definitely works (and sparks!). And now i know how to disable the immobiliser, the starter button is making a click when I press it. Turning the key doesn't make any difference.

Thanks for the advice. I've been out to the garage and found the aerial cable, but even when pressing the fob against it, the starter still doesnt kick in. The LED does go off when i turn the key to position 2, but there are no sounds coming from the fuel tank behind me so beginning to think the immobiliser may be DOA. Which would be... vexing. :(

Having problems with the final part of the build - starting it up for the first time. I'm fairly sure it's a wiring issue, but as the instructions were pretty vague and there was no wiring diagram, i'm not sure what i'm doing wrong. From various searches on here, it seem like the small white and red ring terminals (of which I have two) go on the smaller of the three pins on the back of the starter. The rest of the connections (red cable to battery live, black cable to alternator, and the 2 brown cables to the solenoid) all go on the outside pin. When i connect up the battery, the little LED in the middle of the dash starts blinking (immob?) and the dials light up. When i turn the ignition to position 2 i hear various things priming as they should, but the little LED start flashing quickly and the furthest switch from the driver (looks like engine warning bulb - exclamation mark) comes on. When i press the starter button nothing happens. No clicks, whirs or loud bangs. I've got the inertia switch disconnected as i want to build oil pressure first. Also, it's a Duratec 180 in a supersport r, if that makes any difference. I can only presume it's to do with the way i've wired the starter. Either that or its a problem with the immobiliser. The keys have a little fob on them, but i presume this just works via proximity rather than being a manual activate/deactivate? Any advice you could give would be much appreciated. Edited by - UremaW on 14 Jul 2013 14:00:35

Hi all, thanks again for all the help and advice so far. Got a few more questions today. - DIff - how much oil does the BMW LSD take, or do i just lay it on a level surface and fill it till it overflows? I presume I put the additive in first? - Cooling - the instructions start with mounting the breather bottle, but i dont appear to have a bottle or the bracket to fit it to either. Has this been discontinued for the Duratec 180? Many thanks Scott

Quoting myothercarsa2cv: P.s. Anyway of making your photos a tad smaller? P.p.s. Are you building the car in the lounge? Looks suspiciously carpeted to me! Very nice 😶‍🌫️ Hahaha - didnt realise they were uploaded full size. Worked out how to shrink them down now. :) As for the lovely carpet, I regretfully have to announce that the once pristine shagpile is now covered in precisely 1.3 litres of gearbox oil. Guess who forgot to seal the end of the gearbox... Oops.

A multi-whatnow? ;) Happy to confirm that I wired it up with green/black as positive. Now that the engine is in, i'm kinda glad I don't need to switch them round. Hope the washer bottle never leaks - looks like an engine out job!

Hehehe :)

Sure enough - the fan uses the connector above the steering rack. The two individual connectors beside the bottle must be right. Now just need to know which one is +ive and -ive. One is solid black, the other is black/green. Want to fit the engine tonight as the hoist goes back to HSS tomorrow, so may just busk it. 50% chance of being right! :)

Just finishing up the prep work before we fit the engine and gearbox. Having a bit of a brain fart with the washer bottle/pump. I've fitted it to the bracket and run the pipe as instructed, but the instructions say to connect up the two-pin plug which should be next to the bracket. The only connectors next to the pump are two single plugs (one black, one green/black). There is a two pin plug which looks like exactly what i'm looking for, but it's at the front of the chassis above the steering rack, and is shrink wrapped to the rest of the loom so cant move.

Yep, widetrack Supersport R. All the photos in the manual show the shocks this way up. :( Can i remove/refit the shock without disassembling the upright/wishbones/arb?

Many thanks all. The build continues.... :) Incidentally, the top of the spring assembly seems to foul (or at least touch) the upper wishbone rear bolt. Can't see any way i could have fitted it wrong though. Problem?

There are two rubber boots in the front ARB pack which seem to fit ok on the upright bolt, but the manual specifically mentions using these for the ARB. Confused. WIll post pics in a sec...

Am I right in thinking there should be a rubber boot for the bottom bolt on the upright where it meets the lower wishbone socket? There wasnt any in the box and there was no mention of it in the build manual. Just looks like there should be one, otherwise the socket will fill up with gunk?

Replied :)

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