Rj52car Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 Could I have some help with a VVC 160 list please. I’m going to refurbish a VVC 160 engine over the next few months, if it turns out well it might go into my 1.4 Classic in the Autumn. I’m going to stick with the VVC mechanism and don’t aim for more power, just reliability. So, what will I need ? Which headgasket is the best now A full gasket set New water pump Front Cam belt, which is the best to go for Rear cam belt New oil rail, anyone know the description of the ‘new stronger’ one Oil pump New head bolts Spark plugs Oil filter I think that I need a cam locking tool (18g 1570) and a flywheel locking tool (18G 1674), both of which are available It looks like a I need Cylinder liner retainer clamps (18G 1736) but does anyone know where I can get them My plan would be to remove cylinder head and get refurbished, replace water and oil pumps, new oil rail if advice says yes. As far as bottom end is concerned, leave well alone unless anything badly out of tolerance*. Re-assemble with new belts, gaskets and head bolts. So, can anyone add to the list of things that I need or things that should definitely be replaced while the bonnets up ? Rimmer Bros seem to do MG originals for many of these parts, are MG originals the best to get ? Is there another supplier who has better experience of the best quality parts ? *check liners heights, crankshaft end float, piston to liner clearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LesG Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 I'm sure Oily (DVA) will be able to answer all your questions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 I did a similar-ish exercise not long ago using a MG TF VVC 160 lump, although I *was* aiming for power in my case! Just a few of my notes, in no particular order and by no means exhaustive with regard to your list. I used a Payen BW750 blue elastomer gasket, which has replaced the red elastomer sort; just a cosmetic difference apparently. The "uprated" oil rail part number is LCN000140. I already had one fitted to the donor engine, but I wouldn't necessarily shell out the extra if I only had a "normal" oil rail. I didn't use liner clamps, but I made extra-sure that the bottom end stayed absolutely still while the head was off. It would not be cool having to reseal the liners. If you are worried, you could bang another head on temporarily (I have a spare that has been cooked and is now useless), but that means you lose access to the pistons. Head bolts, I used Camtec ones as I needed some urgently and there is a supplier a few minutes walk away. Next time, I'll be using genuine MG ones. Oil pump, check tolerances and also modify the back plate as per DVA: http://www.s262612653.websitehome.co.uk/kengine/index.htm#lubrication. Spark plugs, I'm using NGK BCPR7ES. As cheap as the proverbial chips. Oil filter, I used to use Halfords (£1.82 on trade), but now use the MG Rover ones. Think I got 10 genuine filters for ~£27 including delivery. Finally, I really would consider having the cylinder head modified while everything is apart. I know it's a fair amount of dosh and you aren't necessarily chasing power at the moment, but it's the ideal time to future-proof yourself if you decide to junk the VVC mechs, go to a single-piece inlet cam, bodies etc. etc. further down the road. Oh, and another finally, read this several times, if you haven't already: http://kengine.dvapower.com/ Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gundersen Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 I did a similar thing over the winter (although as mankee I replaced the VVC mech). I found the cylinder liner retainer clamps (18G 1736) at rimmerbros, but they where pretty expensive (£217.00). So I just used a block of wood held down by the old head bolts, but if you are going to do a lot of work on it that might not be a good solution. I am not sure you need the retainer clamps if you lock the flyweel, but no doubt somebody with way more knowledge than me can advice on that. In the end I used the same gasket as Mankee. I tried a MLS one first, but that one leaked badly (quite possibly my own fault). If I did it again, I would definitely get a full gasket set...you will need all of them anyway Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 It is easy to use a couple of old head bolts cut down with an M8 thread/nut on the end with a couple of penny washers to clamp the liners, you only need two, one between cylinders one and two, the other between 3 and 4. This has worked satisfactorily on over 200 engines. Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leadership Team SLR No.77 Posted June 28, 2013 Leadership Team Share Posted June 28, 2013 A section of ally tube from B&Q cut to appropriate lengths works quite well .... http://i.imgur.com/G5iPKxW.jpg?1 Stu. Edited by - sforshaw on 28 Jun 2013 15:05:49 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted June 29, 2013 Share Posted June 29, 2013 As everything is apart why not balace everything, make your engine so much sweeter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rj52car Posted June 29, 2013 Author Share Posted June 29, 2013 Thanks for the help and useful tips. Mankee, Gunderson, did your 'bottom ends' need anything oung to them ? Mine is 54000 miles out of MG ZR 160. Thanks for joining in Oily, is the head refurb the kind of work that you do ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted June 29, 2013 Share Posted June 29, 2013 Yes it is, but I would prefer not to be proffering services via the BBS. Quite happy to chat via PMs or email. Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinwhitcher Posted June 29, 2013 Share Posted June 29, 2013 Oily (Dave) is your man for this plus why not add a few more gee-gees 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rj52car Posted June 29, 2013 Author Share Posted June 29, 2013 This is already going to be a hike from 105 to 160. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinwhitcher Posted June 29, 2013 Share Posted June 29, 2013 why not 200ish.... 285cams etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mankee Posted June 29, 2013 Share Posted June 29, 2013 I left my bottom end alone (a 77k eBay special), save for a few little jobs, i.e. flywheel, oil pump back plate modifications, crank front oil seal, oil pickup indents modification and drilling the gasket. Don't forget about grinding the web off the block to clear the starter motor. A daunting prospect but just take your time and keep offering up the parts to check for clearance. 200-ish bhp is going to need throttle bodies, programmable management, VVC blanking bits, vernier pulleys, cams, headwork etc. etc., which does add up to quite a bit of dough! But keeping the VVC mechs, standard cams and headwork is a little bit more affordable and will still give you maybe 175-180bhp. You will need to think about what management you will use and injector sizing, if you aren't going to a standalone ECU just yet. Are you EU2 or EU3? As a VVC 160 lump is EU3 and may require some wiring tweaks to work in your car. Also, if you are keeping the standard metal VVC inlet manifold, you'll need the slightly lower engine mount bracket from Caterham as the inlet will clout your bonnet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rj52car Posted June 29, 2013 Author Share Posted June 29, 2013 The engine is eu3 and it comes with ecu and immobiliser. In fact it comes with a complete yellow mg zr 160 ! Also from ebay. My Son and I built the 1.4 Classic last year so it's also eu3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 The MGF wiring loom won't be useful. The smaller of the ECU connectors is attached to the main loom on the MGF, whereas it's on the engine loom in the Caterham installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete - W.Sussex Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 The job has started then Philip - good luck! And let's see how long you resist the pull to upgrade, upgrade 😬 Edited by - Pete - W.Sussex on 30 Jun 2013 07:51:02 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rj52car Posted June 30, 2013 Author Share Posted June 30, 2013 Thanks RJ, I didn't know they were different, can you tell me more ? I had planned to use the engine and loom AND vvc ecu AND 5as unit ... plugged directly into the existing car. Which bit is different ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 Almost anything wiring wise. I think the best option would be to get a VVC engine loom from CC - if still available. Otherwise you'll have to split both the engine loom and the main ditto from the MGF. It'll be a considerable time consuming job to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rj52car Posted June 30, 2013 Author Share Posted June 30, 2013 It's an MG ZR is that the same ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rj Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 Yes. It is only the Caterham loom that has both ECU connectors on the engine loom. All other that I have seen will just have one of the connectors. That is Rovers, Lotuses and MGs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rj52car Posted July 2, 2013 Author Share Posted July 2, 2013 Thanks everyone, very helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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