Pete - W.Sussex

Sorry, no, it's all or nothing I'm afraid. But I could deliver to Southwater if that's any help. Pete

Set of 4 used 13 inch - 2 x 6J, 2 x 8J, KN wheels with CR500 tyres used as wets on my trackday car. Wheels are not perfect but passable. One front in particular a bit tatty - shown below, others similar to second pic. Tyres are 2013 but hardly used and stored in the dark. £500. Collection only from West Sussex - just south of Horsham.

We've got a used 1800 crank that might do the job. It is out of an MGTF 160. We are in W.Sussex just south of Horsham.

I had a bit like that on mine, but perhaps not quite as bad. I rubbed it down to bare metal and used the Hammerite satin black. It's been fine for over a year.

Ta Geoff, I thought it must be about that.

Quick question which I don't seem to be able to find the answer to anywhere - what is the oil capacity of the 6 speed gearbox?

Just to confuse, I had Titan RBs fitted on my R400 Duratec with a standard Caterham remap and they are great. No problem on part throttle and the car picks up better with more breath at the top end - the cool air it now gets from the hole in the bonnet may be helping too.

The other issue to think about when moving to a single screen is if you are going to be carrying a passenger. IME the single screen leaves the passenger with the wind getting under their helmet (on a track) and it can feel like someone's trying to pull your head off.

Lucky - unless you have a very special one indeed I am sure it is not a straight 6. You might want to change that before advertising elsewhere.

Just an update on this - Powervamp did send me a new battery FOC. Given that it was entirely my fault that the battery was killed I think this is brilliant service

Thanks guys - glad it was not just me.

Reading another post on suspension set up reminded me that I wanted to ask POBC about this. On a recent track day I was out in an R300 race car - a new one for this season with the 6 speed sequential (great) but I could not get on with the handling. It was running with no front ARB and I found a lot of oversteer trying to put the power down coming out of bends, almost roll oversteer if there is such a thing. I was told all the racers run like this as it significantly helps the turn in (which I think it did) but on balance I felt the road set up on my road car was better and certainly quicker. It is probably all about the driver and I am certainly no racer but I would be interested in other peoples thoughts and experience.

Thanks for posting this AdamQ - near me and useful to know. Mine may need the rear wings done this winter.

Well mine didn't recover. Tried everything and whilst I got it up to 12.4 volts it would not even turn the ignition on. Am now taking the kind man at Powervamp up on his offer to replace the battery even though it has all been my fault. Interestingly I put a borrowed Powervamp 25 on the car which also clocked 12.4 on my meter and it started it perfectly! There are still lots of things I don't understand about electrics!

Yes I will. Even better, Powervamp seem to be offering to replace it FOC if it doesn't recover - that seems to be very generous of them.

Thanks all. Interestingly having left the charger on overnight when I checked this morning it had sprung into life and the charging light was on. It must have taken it a while to figure out what was going on.

Thanks JK. No you can't top these up they are sealed - AGM batteries. I think you may have a point about the charger - I think I will try it on my CTEK tomorrow, the Halfords one is a charger that reverts to trickle when the battery is charged. Anything is worth a try.

Just come back from a trackday at Brands. Fitted a new battery last week - Powervamp Club 22 - which seemed excellent then half way through the morning the car just cut out. Towed to the pits and after some fiddling about found that the positive cable from the battery had chaffed against the case holding the battery and shorted. My fault. Battery dead (but a race team kindly lent me another battery for the rest of the day) and it read 9.7v on the multi meter. Borrowed a charger (called a dry cell charger, never seen one like it) and got it up to 12.7v before we left but now I have it home my Halfords automatic charger will not show charging or charged So the question is - is the battery a lost cause. I thought it would be until we got some charge into it at Brands as above but now I am doubtful unless I need a different charger? Any advice gratefully received.

Don't even think about it - get a Raceco. My R400D struggled everywhere on static but never a drive by problem (but never dared Bedford) except Silverstone (where in two visits I have never had a static test). When I had RBTB fitted I decided to go Raceco (no cat) and the R500 race airbox and deep joy. Low to mid 90s static and I don't need the earplugs!

Seven Speed.

I'm running Gulf Competition 5/40 this summer but I am doing mainly track days. Change every 500 miles. I've heard it said that 5/50 synth is too thick and is only recommended by CC as they have a deal with a certain company - but I stand to be corrected.

This may or may not be of interest but just in case... I have just finished fitting a new radiator, oil cooler, nose and associated brackets to my R400D SV 2010 following an unfortunate shunt on a trackday at Silverstone - not my fault, pride intact. Point is it took sometime to discover that the cowling/shroud fitted behind the radiator holding the fan has been changed. In fact you can't get a new one and a larger fan is now fitted with a couple of brackets off the side of the radiator and sits on the face of the rear of the radiator. The brackets were described on the package from CC as CSR brackets. So it now looks very open behind the radiator. And this is not peculiar to the SV. Hope it helps someone one day.

This looks quite nice here

And I join those suspecting TPS issues. I had this with my R400d and JV pointed me in the right direction. As he says it might be vibration but I am more convinced it is heat related. The wires are very thin and the covering rubber - it all expands when hot and the wires begin to break then cool and make random contact. The race versions are silicon covered and hence resist the expansion when hot. That's my theory anyway and it might explain why you struggled to have the problem after fiddling with the connections.

I am getting a bit desperate to find one of these here. CC can give no indication of when they will have supply. I am having RBTBs fitted to my R400D and need this to finish the job. Any help or ideas gratefully received.