gundersen

Quoting Pendennis: Then you did something wrong as DOT 5.1 is suited for higher temperatures thus track days and circuit racing. I've managed to cook DOT 4 but not DOT5.1 My understanding is that the MINIMUM requirements for DOT 5.1 is higher than DOT 4, but there is nothing prohibiting a high quality DOT 4 fluid having a higher boiling point than say a chap DOT 5.1.

Quoting Grim Reaper: Before and after shots of the Acoustafil http://www.flickr.com/photos/95548186@N04/12956247353/ and http://www.flickr.com/photos/95548186@N04/12956256193/ from the websitehereHaving talked with the acustafil sales rep about this exact issue, these marketing photos should not be taken too seriously. You will need to pack more than what the first picture shows. The calculator on their homepage is the way to go when determining how much packing to use.

If I magnify it, it looks reads "Cod" on the left side, The right side looks like a square with a line through it, so it could read as III.

Thank you guys for all your input. It seems that there is no clear winner, but that just means that none of the systems are useless Seeing as the prices for a full system are quite high, I decided to kill two birds with one stone build my own using an Arduino with GPS, CAN-BUS and accelerometer. This way I (hopefully) get a datalogger and I get something to do during the winter. I know that I will not be able to develop analysis software to compete with the professional systems, but with a bit of effort I should be able to do some nice trackday videos using Race Render for overlays. And at a total price of around £100 it can't go all wrong 😬

This one? Its from a 2002 EU3 140bhp X-Power.

Thanks for all the replies @Charles: I have tried to compile the prices for a common configuration for the above systems, and you are correct that Stack is the most expensive solution. But not by a large margin. DL1 Club (incl 15 can channels): £839 GoPRO control: £178,8 == £1017,8 (excl. gopro camera) Stack DVL Clubman Starter Kit: £1080 Stack GPS and G-Force: £442.80 == £1522,788 Race Keeper SE System Kit: £1260 == £1260 VBox Lite: £1230 == £1230 (2 x camera) Since I work as a software developer I like the fact that the DL1 seems to have the most advanced software, but other than that I don't see much that sets the apart. @Mark: Unfortunately I don't have a stack dash, so that doesn't help the decision @Jez: Thank you for the input, as above I like the idea of the complex/powerful software of the DL1. @Catastrada: AIM is out for now, as they only seem to do an integrated dash solution. But thanks for the input and nice video .

I don't have a problem adding sensors, but since I already have many of the sensors wired into the ECU and available on the CAN bus, I would like it to be able to read those, atleast as a start

I would like to add some datalogging to my setup, possible with some video. Are there any clear winners in the current datalogging lineup? I have been looking at: o Race Technoly - DL1 o Stack DVL - Clubman o Racekeeper o VBox lite Any one good that I have missed? The setup will be used for trackdays, and I expect most of the data to come from the CAN bus.

I'll have the bulk buy steering joints, that is if you are ok with shipping them to Denmark?

Also interested, both sides.

I am very happy with the electrical Stack gauge in my car. Fitting it was a breeze, and the senders are in a totally different league compared to the Caterham once. If you decide to go electrical, I would recommend a remote sender kit so that the sender is moved away from its current position at the front of the sump, and also away from the majority of engine vibrations. I bought mine here, competitive prices and good service!

Thanks guys, I had totally forgotten about MOG. I was planning to give Simon at meteor motorsport a call anyway so I will definitely ask him about the seats.

One day and 160+ views and this is the advice I get? I could have gotten that from the misses much quicker 😬 Seriously though, I can't be the only 110kg person driving a Caterham and wanting a tillett?

The seat is sold as "Good news for the larger racing drivers.", which fits me perfectly...at least the large part, and I got the SV to prove it! As far as I can measure it should just fit. The SV is 44cm across at the smallest part just by the gear stick, and the seat is reported to be 44cm in the widest part. Anyone tried it? or can recommend another (cheaper) type of tillett that will fit a large'ish person? I tried a standard Caterham tillet in an S3, but could just barely fit.

@stu: no distributor, so that is an option. Thanks @rj: the signal thingy on the cam is right below the sensor hole, so that is definately an option. Actually that was what Flemming suggested, and he has some hall sensors that are quite long and have threads on the sides so they can screw into an adapter...will call you when I get home from track day 😬

Yep, sequential injection...and some other stuff. For example in case of a misfire the ECU can detect which cylinder had the misfire. So not vital features, but none the less something that would be nice to have working now that the ECU can 😬

on what Graham King said, sounds to me like totally normal behaviour. No air flow means hot coolant, means the fan kicks in. As long as the temperature then drops to normal levels and the fans turns off again, all is well Yes the k-series coolant system can contains its share of gremlings, but nothing that Callum has said suggest that he is affected...yet.

During last winter I switched to a 1.8l solid cam VVC head, and it is working nicely and producing around 185bhp. How ever, I am unable to get a working cam sensor on it. I have tried to use the cam cover, incl. hall cam sensor, from my old EU3 engine. But the hall sensor is a good cm or so away from the cam pickup, and therefor unable to read anything. I have also tried using the VR sensor in the side of the VVC top, but aparently there is no picup on the solid cams for it to trigger on. I know that many are not using cam sensors, but there must be somebody that does with this setup...so what have you done?

Lots of good suggestions here I am surprised that none have mentioned lowered floors... @BSA: The gearbox is nice (and works flawlessly btw, thanks), and while it is better on track than the old five speed, it didn't transform the car in the same way that for example switching from 16" to 13" wheels did.

During my short (two years) caterham ownership, I have made quite a number of changes and upgrades to my car. Including, but not limited to: new engine, gearbox, diff, wheels, dials, aeroscreen, exhaust, seats, ecu All these modifications vary greatly in price and complexity, but I have found that there is no directly link between the price of a modification and the gain. Two of the best modifications I have made, have been relatively inexpensive. The first modification I did that REALLY changed the car, was removing the 16" wheels and replacing them with 13" CR500's. That simply transformed the handling of the car, before it felt like a heavy tin top, and after it felt like top fuel gokart. The second modification I did, was to move the seat forward by 7.5cm...not much, but enough that I could get a proper driving position. Again, the feel of the car was transformed 🥰 So, just my two pence of wisdom. So what is your best modification/upgrade 🤔

Thank you for clearing that up Roger. I already have the uprated "trophy" pistons, and they should be good for the tune I am running. So the forged pistons are off my Christmas wishlist again

Would these gains translate to the k-series?

I had the exact same problem in my SV...only it was my legs that where too short Firstly I moved the pedals closer to the seats, and that worked, but not very well. I was still too far from the steering wheel. So yesterday I moved the seat forward and the pedals back to their original position, and it was a world of difference. Much better! The operation was extremely simple: 1) Unbolt the seat (mine just had a single bolt in each corner) 2) Drill new holes. I did mine 7.5cm in front of the old once, still well within the reinforcements under the bottom. 3) Cut new holes in the mats 4) Bolt the seat back in the new holes...remember to secure the harness in a position where it wont get caught under the seat runners 5) Enjoy 😬

At the bottom of DVA's vernier page there is a list of cams and their recommended lift at TDC.

We are not bothered too much by mountain passes and the likes, how ever strong western wind is plentiful 😬