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Racing batteries rbc300 any experience


wingnutLP

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Stopping? Does a lithium battery naturally stop charging

 

Yes - when the voltage in the battery equals the voltage being supplied to the battery then it will stop charging.

 

I charge small Lithium Ion batteries on my desk power supply, which has current and voltage limits. I simply set the current limitation appropriately (200mA for AAA size batteries, 1A or so for the bigger 18650 cells) and the voltage to 4.2v. As the battery approaches 4.2v, so the charging current drops towards zero. It's very dangerous to overcharge LiIon batteries much beyond 4.2v, but since the power supply won't supply more than 4.2v, there's no way the battery voltage can possibly exceed 4.2v.

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  • 7 months later...

As I'm considering a RBC400 for my race Caterham, I've bumped this for some real-world experience. I have a battery isolator so don't intend to trickle charge. I know that if I let it go dead I've killed it.

 

How are those that bought one finding them 9 months on?

 

Jez

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Charles - I currentlyhave an 8kg Banner, which is standard in the Caterham series. I finished a race at 621kg. Limit is 600kg. I would have gladly paid £250 last year to save 7kg. Given that I would target +5kg anyway, that would have got me to 9kg over, rather than 16. The weight limit next year in grads is also slightly tougher, with the heavier tyres.

 

But I'd like to know that the battery will last a bit!

 

Jez

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Thanks NoLimits.

 

I'm not intending to use an Optimate - simply disconnect. I know that the claim is for <2% charge loss annually, but I was just asking for real world performance, rather than sitting in a temperature controlled environment.

 

Anyway, I have a battery master, so full isolation can be achieved and I suspect I'll take the plunge. However, do you think that a 1600 Sigma will need a RBC400 or 600?

 

Jez

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  • 7 months later...

Bringing this back to the top as a friend has just asked what lithium battery he should buy. My thoughts on the RBC400 (used with a Sigma Supersport car with the lightened flywheel):

 

1) It's very small and light. You can only appreciate this when you see it next to a normal battery.

2) It starts the car fine when the car is cold or warm. It doesn't really like starting the car when the car is hot (I.e. coming off track, stop in parc ferme, it needs some encouragement to re-fire the car). I think it would be better if the car had the normal flywheel as it doesn't have quite the inertia to get over the compression. It sounds like when you start a car with a battery that is dying, but then when the car is cooler, it starts it well.

3) I've had no problems with the battery going flat, but it is always left disconnected by master switch.

 

If I was buying again, I'd be tempted to to buy the RBC600, but at another £200, that's quite an additional cost!

 

Jez

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I've always presumed it's due to the engine being hot, leading to slightly higher compression, but I guess I should pay some attention to whether the battery is warm / hot at the end of a session. I'll check that next time I race - Cadwell, w/e of 7/8 September.

 

Jez

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The Racing Battery prefers to be hot. It will give more power when it is hot.

 

For the same reason the battery will give more power out on its 3rd or 4th press of the starter button assuming its only for the 5 sec as recommended and it was fully charged.

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Interesting Simon. I have religiously followed the rule on not holding the button for more than 5s (and then giving it a short rest, although that is only 10s or so). I haven't had to try that in anger on a circuit though!

 

That suggests that the reluctance to start is linked to the engine, not that battery.

 

Jez

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