Cannonball Bob Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Anyone any experience or top tips? I'm mid-way through tidying up the front suspension, and for the cost of getting everything grit blasted by local workshop, I could buy myself a grit blasting gun. Or is it one of those things where it's never quite as good at home? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 It's fine. I've done a fair bit. The big problem is what the hell you do with all the grit. Your choices are take it outside and use it once, or build a cabinet, or get an old tent up in the garage and do it in there. You need to be outside the tent or prepared to dress in hooded overalls, gloves, visor, goggles, the works. You can reuse the grit but you MUST sieve it otherwise flakes of rust and paint block the gun. Finally don't neglect your air consumption, most guns are about 8 CFM and so a little toytown compressor like mine won't cut it. You are into 2 or 3 hp, 10+ CFM items and they are a bit more expensive and bulky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Don't do it indoors, or Mrs to be won't be impressed ! Sue was out one evening recently, and I needed to do a bit of power planing on some wood. It was raining, so I didn't want to push the Seven out of the garage and plane out there, so I did it in the hall, with a view to sweeping/hoovering up the shavings. It is amazing how much waste a power plane can produce in a few minutes. Carpet was about two inches deep. Took a lot of sweeping/shovelling and hoovering. Should have taken a photo before I started clearing up. In the garage or outdoors for me in future ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonboylaw Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 TBH, you are better off taking it to a proper blaster and coater. You need a pretty hefty compressor to run those guns and the mess is a pain. For a few quid you could get them either blasted or dipped and stripped. The old Nitromores used to work well, but I fear you will not have any lick with the new stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannonball Bob Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 Quoting jonboylaw: you are better off taking it to a proper blaster and coater. You need a pretty hefty compressor to run those guns and the mess is a pain. The gun featured above claims to recirculate the grit (not sure how and I'll admit to being a bit "Yeah, I'll believe that when I see it" on that front), and the guff says it runs off the size of compressor I've already got. Thing is, for the cost of outsourcing once, I could get the gun and 20kg of grit and clean up everything in sight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elie boone Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 CB, i have one of those guns, u can get different heads for it to suit the application, they are fantastic on sheet metal but not so on tubes, different type of sand will give a different finish. I would buy a small cabinet to do the wishbones,from say machine mart ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenny. Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 When you've a second Bob just have a cruise around some of the local small Ind estates. Our local coatings firm on such an estate works by the "black bag full" usually 40 quid to blast and coat all the bits in it if he's already using that colour on a bigger job.......with them being black he often is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannonball Bob Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 That's my point though kenny, for the cost of diesel to take it all somewhere, then collect next week, plus paying the guy.....I could set myself up. Elie....what they like on calipers and other castings? Edited to add: Something else kenny......I live in the South. We have Business Parks, not grubby "industrial estates". Edited by - Cannonball Bob on 20 Jan 2012 11:09:16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Quoting Cannonball Bob: The gun featured above claims to recirculate the grit (not sure how and I'll admit to being a bit "Yeah, I'll believe that when I see it" on that front), and the guff says it runs off the size of compressor I've already got. Recirculate my foot. How does that work when it zips by at 100mph? Do not underestimate how savage and messy these things are, I wouldn't entertain it for a moment without shoving it in a tent or a cabinet. Any notions of "I can probably catch most of it in a bit of plastic sheet" are pure fantasy. You will be sweeping it off shelves for years to come. If you have anything mechanical in the garage it will be coated from top to toe in grit. By all means do it, it's easy enough, but you WILL have overspray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 It will recirculate if forced hard against whatever you are blasting. But you won't remove powercoat with it, unless it's half off anyway. No good for any area - as it says, it's a spot blast gun - areas the size of a penny. Put it on rust and it make it silvery looking - but scratch it with a screwdriver and you expose more rust it's not removed. A 3hp copmpressor struggles to keep up with it. Good for small spots on car bodies etc, but not much else. For the amount of time you will spend blasting and reblasting penny sized bits, find your local blaster (your powdercoater might do it, but he will certainly know someone who does) and get it done right once. When I sorted my integrale when I bought it, I did the tiny spots with it, but paid a mobile blaster 75 quid to come and strip inside the rear wheel arches and the rear diff subframe - 25mins setting up, 3 mins work and job done. Would have taken me days to do. Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannonball Bob Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 Sod that then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenny. Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Have a drive around the business parks then ...seriously though the 40 quid includes lovely satin black powdercoat too. And anyway you told me those vans were economical so the diesel won't cost much innit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannonball Bob Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 Visited the Business Park. Lovely poplar trees, a nice pond.....everyfing. £30 for everything from the wishbones outwards blasted back to bare metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenny. Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Better than that stupid little gun you were thinking about then, with a coverage that wouldn't cover your bell end...........result . Oh and our Industial estate business park has a big muddy puddle as its centre piece 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bricol Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 Now find a local powder coaters and hopefully they can be tagged onto the back of an industrial order - no cost to them, and a few quid to you. Bri Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannonball Bob Posted January 20, 2012 Author Share Posted January 20, 2012 Nah, having seen the state of some of the existing powder coat where moisture's got under it, I'm going down the enamel paint finish route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbird Posted January 20, 2012 Share Posted January 20, 2012 no longer relevant Edited by - tbird on 20 Jan 2012 21:34:03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonboylaw Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Bob, Instead of enamel paint, have a look at the rubberized paint options. I used some on my WBs and they look good still and the stone don't chip it. You can even get a covering to make them gloss if you want. You must use the recomended primer though. Have a look here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbird Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Jon did you use the HCF or the Plastidip, I have been wondering about using Plastidip for suspension/chassis for a while Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonboylaw Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Tim, I used the plastidip stuff, masked off the bushes, nicely cleaned WBs treated to a good dose of 400 grit paper to give a good key, the grey primer followed by a fair few coats of the rubber paint (you need to paint as the primer is just dry!). You can thin it and spray paint it as well (did the roll cage) but you need to build up a good few layers to make it effective. I really rate the stuff on the suspension, no chips in 2 years and no sign of rusting. Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbird Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 cheers Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbird Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 Just been looking at the plastidip site, wonder what "glow in the dark yellow" would look like on the WBs 😬 Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cannonball Bob Posted January 21, 2012 Author Share Posted January 21, 2012 Quoting jonboylaw: Instead of enamel paint, have a look at the rubberized paint options. Been looking at that too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonboylaw Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 I was contemplating with the Fluorescent colours as well but decided to stick with black for the initial trial. I need to do my roll cage again so my consider a highlight colour and possibly the gloss finisher (it is a final layer you paint over thaty makes it gloss effect instead of matt). Anyone for a bulk buy ??? :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheds Moderator Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 If you are talking powder, yes I understand that the basic finish is semi-gloss, the glossiness depends on the coating chosen. Final gloss, and metallics, is a lacquer. I have a powdered bike frame, it was in a mess when I was given it and a grotty black with corrosion, but now in a powder equivalent of Ford Asbo Orange with met lacquer it looks absolutely ace. It stands up to the hammer on a MTB as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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