Stud length for MB wheels?

[The Pikey]

Theres only about three threads going into the hex part of the nut, I'm guessing this is no good and I need to replace the studs with longer ones?

 

Jason

 

 

[Stationary M25 Traveller]

That doesn't sound comforting. I had the same with 32mm long studs on my 10-spoke Anthracites. Changed all studs to 40mm long. Cheap and easy to do.

[The Pikey]

I'll change them in that case I have never bought studs before, apart from the length whats the rest of the spec I need?

 

thanks

Jason

 

 

[jchasey]

I've got some spare studs (8 of for rear wheels) - bought them few weeks back and didn't realise I already had the longer studs. Still in packaging PM me if interested!

John

[Geoff Wilcx]

Are you using standard nuts or the correct jobbies for your MB wheels?

 

The currect nuts are actually stepped and go right through the hole in the wheel thus picking up on threads that do not protrude.

 

Upgrades - a screaming KV05+something more Radical

 

www.radicalroadcars.com

www.geoffwilcoxphotography.co.uk

 

Edited by - Geoff Wilcx on 14 Nov 2010 20:41:05

[The Pikey]

Geoff

 

I have the correct nuts from M.B. Although the plain shank of the nut is fully threaded it is very thin and the studs only go three threads into the hex part of the nut.

 

 

Jason

 

 

[The Pikey]

I've got some spare studs (8 of for rear wheels) - bought them few weeks back and didn't realise I already had the longer studs. Still in packaging PM me if interested!

John

---

 

John

 

don't thinkblatmail is working so can you send me an email to

thejetrebel at gmail.com

 

cheers

Jason

 

 

[lotusdave]

on my mb wheels 2or3 threads poke out of the hole on all 4 studs front and back, standard 2004 s3 car,: so i recon 15mm longer studs would be better, where can these be got from dave 🤔

 

Edited by - lotusdave on 14 Nov 2010 21:26:41

[skydragon]

I too need to change the studs on my rear wheels for similar reasons.

 

What is the quickest/easiest way to fit the new 40mm studs.

 

I was hoping i could just unbolt the bearing carrier, unbolt the brake caliper and pull the halfshaft out the diff and get to the back of the hub...but i guess the brake disk covers the back of the hub, making the studs inaccessible??

 

Do I have to undo the big nut, remove the hub from the end of the half shaft and then remove the brake disk, before i can get to the studs??

 

Advice welcome

 

 

[Stationary M25 Traveller]

Yes indeedy !

 

The thin-headed bolts on my rear hubs were well and truly stuck in place with loads of loctite. Needed a lot of heat to get them moving. An impact wrench and hexagonal (not 12-point) socket with the open face ground down to remove the radiused end will help too.

 

Once you get the disc off the hub, the studs just bash out with a big hammer, or perhaps a socket and vice if you want to be gentler !

 

 

 

Edited by - Stationary M25 Traveller on 14 Nov 2010 22:43:10