The Pikey Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 Theres only about three threads going into the hex part of the nut, I'm guessing this is no good and I need to replace the studs with longer ones? Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 That doesn't sound comforting. I had the same with 32mm long studs on my 10-spoke Anthracites. Changed all studs to 40mm long. Cheap and easy to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Pikey Posted November 14, 2010 Author Share Posted November 14, 2010 I'll change them in that case I have never bought studs before, apart from the length whats the rest of the spec I need? thanks Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jchasey Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 I've got some spare studs (8 of for rear wheels) - bought them few weeks back and didn't realise I already had the longer studs. Still in packaging PM me if interested! John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Wilcx Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 Are you using standard nuts or the correct jobbies for your MB wheels? The currect nuts are actually stepped and go right through the hole in the wheel thus picking up on threads that do not protrude. Upgrades - a screaming KV05+something more Radical www.radicalroadcars.com www.geoffwilcoxphotography.co.uk Edited by - Geoff Wilcx on 14 Nov 2010 20:41:05 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Pikey Posted November 14, 2010 Author Share Posted November 14, 2010 Geoff I have the correct nuts from M.B. Although the plain shank of the nut is fully threaded it is very thin and the studs only go three threads into the hex part of the nut. Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Pikey Posted November 14, 2010 Author Share Posted November 14, 2010 I've got some spare studs (8 of for rear wheels) - bought them few weeks back and didn't realise I already had the longer studs. Still in packaging PM me if interested! John John don't thinkblatmail is working so can you send me an email to thejetrebel at gmail.com cheers Jason Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotusdave Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 on my mb wheels 2or3 threads poke out of the hole on all 4 studs front and back, standard 2004 s3 car,: so i recon 15mm longer studs would be better, where can these be got from dave 🤔 Edited by - lotusdave on 14 Nov 2010 21:26:41 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skydragon Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 I too need to change the studs on my rear wheels for similar reasons. What is the quickest/easiest way to fit the new 40mm studs. I was hoping i could just unbolt the bearing carrier, unbolt the brake caliper and pull the halfshaft out the diff and get to the back of the hub...but i guess the brake disk covers the back of the hub, making the studs inaccessible?? Do I have to undo the big nut, remove the hub from the end of the half shaft and then remove the brake disk, before i can get to the studs?? Advice welcome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted November 14, 2010 Share Posted November 14, 2010 Yes indeedy ! The thin-headed bolts on my rear hubs were well and truly stuck in place with loads of loctite. Needed a lot of heat to get them moving. An impact wrench and hexagonal (not 12-point) socket with the open face ground down to remove the radiused end will help too. Once you get the disc off the hub, the studs just bash out with a big hammer, or perhaps a socket and vice if you want to be gentler ! Edited by - Stationary M25 Traveller on 14 Nov 2010 22:43:10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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