Ivaan Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 I've just completed installing a 1.8K ( EU2 ) engine in my car ( series 3 2000 roadsport ). Trying to fire her up, but have no power to the fuel pump. I've checked the fuse ( 2nd from bottom ) and it's okay. I've tried to reset the trip switch on the bulkhead, and I've checked all the connectors ect. All appears to be as it should. The battery's fully charged and the engine spins over well, but obviously won't start. It's only been standing for a couple of weeks, so I don't think there's any fault with the pump itself. Any ideas where to look??? Thanks, Clive 😬 😬 😬 Found a wiring problem in the loom between the inertia switch and the fuse box. I've cut in a new length of 15 Amp wire and we're back in business. Just been out for a short blat, and the new engine runs sweet. 😬 😬 😬 Thanks for all your help. ....without which, I'd still be groping in the dark. Clive Edited by - Ivaan on 24 Oct 2009 16:06:19 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonboylaw Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 How about resetting the inertia switch ? I hear that has to be done. I'm not K-series man so I suspect someone more knowledgeable will be along soon to sort you out... Jon Edit: I guess that is what you meant by the tripswitch... Edited by - jonboylaw on 19 Oct 2009 21:03:27 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Richard Price Posted October 19, 2009 Area Representative Share Posted October 19, 2009 Clive, The Immobiliser kills the fuel pump. What's the immobiliser LED doing? Try pressing the lock button three or four times, ad then pressing the unlock button a few times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 How about resetting the inertia switch ? I think he's already done this vis I've tried to reset the trip switch on the bulkhead, Ivaan, you can discount the inertia switch on the bulkhead by simply unplugging the connector and shorting a wire between the terminals in the plug. Reset the immobiliser as advised, 5 presses of either lock or unlock button and ensure the LED is off once this is done. Have you checked you've connected all engine bay wiring? Seem to recall there's a purple wired spade connector that is key to something. If none of that works then try 12v direct to the pump to check that's ok. Steve. Sussex (West) AR Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear who recommends Puddle Pet Care Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivaan Posted October 19, 2009 Author Share Posted October 19, 2009 Richard, I've set and re-set the imobiliser several times, and it appears to function normally. No joy ☹️ I'll try disconnecting and re-connecting the battery tomorrow. I assume the pump is set into the tank on the offside. I can't clearly ID the electrics and there's minimum info on the CC wiring diagram.Any idea where the feed runs? I'm thinking of wiring a supply direct from the battery, to confirm it's the lack of power, not the pump itself. I did move the loom about quiet a bit to clear the engine, but it's all gone back into place. Is the MFU, under the ECU, anything to do with the pump? I hate electrickery Cheers all....Clive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivaan Posted October 19, 2009 Author Share Posted October 19, 2009 Steve, I've just nipped back into the garage and tried the 5 press re-set. Also checked the purple spade connection again.....no luck. Any idea how to wire a direct feed to the pump? Thanks, Clive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 The pump is fed from the MFRU where a relay sits for just this purpose, the relay is fired from the ECU.. MFRU In(control) MFRU 6 pin connector from wire side 1 2 3 4 5 6 PIN Colour Tracer Function Signal Destination 1 B P Fuel Pump (GND Switched 0V = ON) DC ECU(Black) Pin 30 2 G K Ignition Switch On fuel relay(12V=ON) DC Loom connector 1 Pin 13 3 W K Main Relay (GND Switched 0V = ON) DC ECU(Black) Pin 22 4 B W GND for starter Relay DC Loom conn. 1 Pin 1 +GND 5 B G Lambda Heater (GND Switched 0V = ON) DC ECU(Black) Pin 20 6 W R Starter Rly. +12V from Ign. Switch Crank DC Loom connector 1 Pin 12 MFRU OUT pin connector 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 PIN Colour Tracer Function Signal Destination 1 Not Used ------- 2 N U Lambda(OS) Heater +12V DC Lamda(OS) Pin 3 3 N K ECU Controlled +12V DC IACV,Inj,VVC,Loom,ECU Blk-27,Sprk1cfs 4 Y G Fuel Pump ON (+12V) DC Vehicle Loom 1 Pin 10 5 N R Starter Solenoid (+12V) DC Starter Solenoid 6 N S Permanent +12V (ECU FUSE) IN DC Via Purple wire to fuse ECU 7 N S Permanent +12V (ECU FUSE) IN DC Via Purple wire to fuse ECU 8 N K ECU Controlled +12V DC IACV,Inj,VVC,Loom,ECU Blk-27,Sprk1cfsv Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6speedmanual Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 If you listen for the relay in the MFRU it should be heard to click at the start and end of the pre-start fuel pressure cycle. If a good clear click cannot be heard, the relay may be stuck inside the unit. Try giving the MFRU a firm slap, or remove it from under its bracket and give it a tap on the casing. Preferably during its cycle with someone assisting by operating the ignition switch. Good luck P BRAWNGP green SUPERLIGHT FCITW 2009 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myles Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 The feed gets to the pump via a two-wire connector down by the fog light. the fog-light has exactly the same connector... Did you touch any of this during the conversion? When I rebuilt mine, I had the comedy situation where the fog-lamp would illuminate briefly (out of sight) when I tried to start the car. Oily correctly suggested I should check for that... 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester Racing 7s Ecosse™ 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Smith Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 I've had a similar problem recently. Do you have an electrical isolator switch? If so it's worth checking this out as they do fail and as well as isolating the battery they isolate power to the ECU which in turn powers up the fuel pump. I'm crap at electrics too but this solved my problem! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 Tim, He said the enigne turns over ok so it won't be the cut out switch. (Unless it's wired very oddly) Steve. Sussex (West) AR Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear who recommends Puddle Pet Care Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Smith Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 Steve, Mine has been rewired so that power to the solenoid comes from the start button direct and not through the ECU. I had problems with the ECU 20amp fuse blowing and the usual fun and games with hot starting, this appears to have cured it. If the same mod has been done to Ivaan's car it could still be the isolator switch? Is there definitely power to the ECU? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shn7 Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 Fair enough Tim. I can see how that would work. Steve. Sussex (West) AR Not forgetting Percy the Polar Bear who recommends Puddle Pet Care Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivaan Posted October 20, 2009 Author Share Posted October 20, 2009 Thanks for all the replies... most useful. Right....bought a multimeter today..so. Oily.....with ignition on power going into the MRFU PIN 1 ( B/P ) @ 12.45V No power coming out on PIN 4 ( Y/G ) So problem with the unit seems to be the answer however:- It does click on ignition on....pump doesn't work....IAVC clicks and buzzes No power at fuse box. Myles:- I swapped over the fog/pump connectors, and the pump runs continiously when fog light switched on ( together with headlights ect ). It doesn't stop when up to pressure..... Engine won't fire up and there's no smell of petrol. What normaly tells the pump to switch off when up to pressure? Is the switch inside the pump, or is the MRFU involved. There's no cables to the pressure regulator on the end of the fuelrail?? Hope you can help...I want to hear this engine running!!!! Cheers, Clive. p.s. Anyone have a spare MRFU for me to try before I buy another?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tigger Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 When I had a similar problem it turned out to be the relay under the ECU. In the end I fixed it by removing the plastic cover and wedging a piece of paper in the relay to keep it closed. The card is still there 9 months later and the car is still running well..... (Quality British Engineering ) Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 The ECU fires the relay for 5 secs or so to establish baseline pressure. It only resumes the pump when the engine runs. Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Area Representative Richard Price Posted October 21, 2009 Area Representative Share Posted October 21, 2009 Engine won't fire up and there's no smell of petrol. It only resumes the pump when the engine runs. Maybe the ECU does not know that the engine is turning over. Have you checked the crank sensor (RHS under the plenum, through the block, and sesnsing the cutouts in the back of the flywheel)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oilyhands Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 It should at least do it's 5 second prime, which you would hear... Oily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivaan Posted October 21, 2009 Author Share Posted October 21, 2009 Richard, The crank sensor is in place and connected. I don't think it's possible to interchange the loom connectors by mistake, as each has a differnt pattern. ( Or am I wrong??? ) Oily, So there's only power to the pump for the first 5 secs after switching on the ignition. That may explain why I'm not getting any voltage...it already switched off before I've tried testing. I'll have another go, straight from key turn. Numpty question....When direct feeding the pump, is it possible to wire back to front, and make the pump run in reverse?? Thanks......Clive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivaan Posted October 21, 2009 Author Share Posted October 21, 2009 I have 12.6V at the connector next to the pump for a couple of seconds at ignition on. Then 9 - 10V on cranking the engine. So pump should be working....but it's not. However, yesterday, when connected via the fog light feed, it whirred away happily, but there was still no fuel reaching the rail. Could it have been running in reverse?? I'll try to rig a seperate feed from a spare battery tomorrow night. Any other suggestions would be most welcome.. Off to make my Cocoa...night. Clive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tbird Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 Not looked at one or diag but would have thought if you connected 🙆🏻 about face you would have blown fuse for lights, rather than run backwards, depending on how it is earthed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivaan Posted October 22, 2009 Author Share Posted October 22, 2009 From my nightly trip to the garage:- The pump works fine from a direct feed and a local earth. Engine fires up and runs 😬 Also works from a direct feed from the MFRU ( 4 secs at ign on, then on cranking/starting engine ). Doesn't work from direct feed from either side of the fuse. Doesn't work from direct feed from either side of the inertia switch. Anyone know the line of sequence for the supply, and where does the imobiliser come into the circuit? How does the grey multiplug come apart ( under the plenium ). There's yellow/green wires going through it, but I don't know if these will be on the pump circuit. Getting to the answer slowly.... Cocoa again.... Clive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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