Brucey Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 I've started this project with good intentions but hadn't realised how much grief the job intailed! Can anyone help with the following: 1. Do the headight brackets mount at the back nut of the top/front wishbone fixing. It seems a bit of a squeeze and I've had to bend the front mount of the headlamp bracket to fit. NOW FITTED 2. Is it easier to cut a slot in the top cycle wing mount rather than pop the top ball joint? (This will save me having to get new ball joint rubbers) 3. Does the steel flexible brake pipe have to be removed and put through the cycle wing bracket near the back? I'm a bit concerned it will rub as the steering and suspension move. 4. How difficult is it to shim the steering rack to prevent the cycle wing hitting the body on full lock. 5. What is the most successful way to block the clamshell wing mounting holes. I know you can stick ally plates behind some, but what about the 2 big holes? (I've currently got 2 rivnuts with screws stuck in, some minor corrosion and minor ripples and dents around the old mounting holes. 6. Can I use the side repeaters from the clam shells on the cycle wings? I'm hovering over just buying a new pair of BRG Clamshells and fitting those instead...... but that would be too easy! Thanks in anticipation, Bruce. Edited by - brucey on 17 Jan 2009 21:16:35 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beverlonian Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 Hi Brucey, not too much activity on here yet? Limited knowledge means I can only give help with No.1 here 'edit' and this one for No.3 here Good Luck Andy Lardy Aztec Orange 'n' Black Edited by - adcatman on 17 Jan 2009 22:07:12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brucey Posted January 17, 2009 Author Share Posted January 17, 2009 Cheers Andy They help a lot. Guess its off with the brake pipes as well then! funny how these quick jobs just get bigger and bigger: I just hope all the effort is worth it. Bruce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z3MCJez Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 Not that I have any real experience of what you're doing but: 2) I would try and avoid this. Firstly, I think you'll find the cycle wing stay very hard to cut and secondly, it won't hold so well. It's your car though, so decide if you'll be happy with a corner cut ... 3) The brake hose does go through the cycle wing stay. 4) Mine doesn't do this - I'm guessing it's a different steering rack. 5) No idea! 6) Have a look at the build manual, section 10, paras 3-5 (although that's not very clear in isolation). Basically, if the repeater fits, no reason why you shouldn't be able to use it. The live feed goes down the wing stay. The earth screws/rivets on to the underside of the wing stay (manual says rivet - I think due to the thickness of the wing-stay - if you prefer to screw you'll need a screw with a very wide thread). If you want to take the wings off again, consider using bigheads/glue, in which case you might be able to get a better fixing with the holes drilled at a different angle from that suggested. Also, when drilling the wing stays, use a new drill bit and a relatively slow drill speed, else everything will get *VERY* hot. Jez Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brucey Posted January 18, 2009 Author Share Posted January 18, 2009 Jez, Thanks for the info I've already popped both top ball joints as I didn't fancy cutting slots into the wing stays. So I'll be phoning CC tomorrow for some more rubber boots. I got my cycle wings cheap but have noticed the moulded step around the edge only goes around 1 end. It looks like the ridge/step has been machined off the other end. The question is, which end does the fully moulded ridge go. From the various photo's I've seen, I think it's the front/top. How many people fit mud flaps? (you don't need mud flaps with clam shells!) Bruce. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windy Corner Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 I've put mudflaps on mine, mainly to reduce the cringe factor when you hear all those stones hitting th bodywork ! Also reduces the possibility of a stonechip on the windscreen, especially a heated one. Rik Roadsport SV 1.6 Sigma 150 in Viper Blue here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bellissimmo Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 Bruce, Don't forget, I'm 'just round the corner' if you want to compare yours with mine. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beverlonian Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 The moulded step on the CC cycle wings goes all around the edge of the wing, not seen yours but I guess it would kook right with the plain bit at the bottom. WC. I'm seriously thinking of mud flaps to stop the 'another BLAT another CHIP another touchup routine'. A stonking big 'ding' from todays run My touchup paint is like molasses, Hijack start.... Does anyone know if CC now use waterbased paint and if they do can I add a little distilled water to thin it out? Hijack end.... Andy Lardy Aztec Orange 'n' Black Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveMorris Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 Brucey, 2/. Easier - yes. You can break the balljoint without knackering the rubber - not easy though. Your call. 3/. Yes, 4/. If you have the original rack for Clamshell wings (not the newer 8% or 22% racks) then YES the rears of the wings will hit the sideskin. You can put a "shim" on the rack - though clamp is actually a better word. I used a clamp from HUCO.COM here. I wasn't sure which size to order though. I have the 046201022 and 01028 still in their bags infront of me now as I type - but as I can't find the packing slip or the order e-mail I don't know what I actually ordered, or what I fitted. ANYWAY - this collar is fitted onto the rack on the near side, under the gaitor (don't have to take the tr-rod end off to fit the clamp as it is a two-piece jobby). It prevents the rack turning fully to the right. In order to make effective use of the clamp you need to move the rack slightly towards the near-side of the car (mark the original position before moving it). Only need to move it about 7mm - this is easy with the old racks as they have a smooth outer rack tube (no cast-in positions for the clamp). Although easier to fit the clamp with the rack off the car it is defintely possible to do it with the rack still fitted. MAke sure front wheels are off the floor whilst you do it. Get teh tracking sorted afterwards- note that you might NOT have enough thread on the ends of the steering rack arms - and may need to buy a die to extend the thread a little bit. If you do some serious searching on here then you may find either a more extensive explanation than I have given above (with less spelling errors), or at least some corroboration of the methodology. 5/. Ally plates bonded on behind and then filled (until such time as you decide to go for a re-skin). For bigger holes use bigger plates. 6/. Don't know. Dave. (Of course all talk of removing clams and fitting cycle wing is absolute herecy ! ! ! 😬 ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brucey Posted January 19, 2009 Author Share Posted January 19, 2009 Thanks Guys Especially Dave who seems to have done this conversion and can feel my pain I just hope the fact that I will be able to see my suspension going up and down is worth it! Bruce. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveMorris Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 Didn't do the conversion in full. I purchased a car that had been changed from Clams to Cycles - but left with the holes, paint scar lines etc. and the wings that made dents in the side-panels. It now looks like the green one here. Worth it in the end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simon metcalfe Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 Hi Brucie, I converted to cycle wings 2 years ago from clams and have to say it was worth it - although as you are discovering, it is a bigger job than you would imagine. Just a couple of points to add - I had to physically bend the new wing stays so they fitted centrally over the tyres. This was VERY tricky to do so hope yours fit!! Secondly, when all is in place, you may find that you need to remove the cycle wings to get the tracking checked - where I went their gauge would not fit against the wheel with the wing in place as it's too low. It is all worth it in the end!!!! rgds Simon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LesG Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 DaveMorris; nice one! Been contemplating how I was gonna sort the rack 'stops' on my car for a while now, those clamps look like just the job ta! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stationary M25 Traveller Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 for mud flaps. Bond BigHead studs inside the wings with the right adhesive (understand Carbon Bits [RiF] stocks these now). There are gauges that fit on the face of the wheel rims, and don't have to hook over the tyre. Provide a more accurate measurement. I went to a place in Uckfield for this only a couple of weeks ago Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nemo Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 Deleted Edited by - Nemo on 20 Jan 2009 10:17:59 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nemo Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 Brucey (Posted again as I had problems editing the original) I did this conversion some time ago - it cost me a fortune in the end 😳. I'm glad I did it though. See these threads here and here they might help as far as your question 5 is concerned. Best of luck with it . Also, check out the link in my signature to see before and after pictures of my Seven. 😬 Nemo (formerly KAP) 1990 1700 X Flow Super Sprint Photos Edited by - Nemo on 20 Jan 2009 10:15:47 Edited by - Nemo on 20 Jan 2009 10:17:28 Edited by - Nemo on 20 Jan 2009 10:18:57 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brucey Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 Thanks guys, .............Some very useful information there. Nemo, photos show the coversion well. Why did you reskin it after doing all that work filling the holes? What type of paint did you use when you covered the holes and what colour BRG is it? (i.e. twin pack). What did you do with your steering rack? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nemo Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Brucey I never did fill the holes. The original intention was to fill the holes by welding in some small pieces of ally, filling as required and then have the relevant bits resprayed. However, the guy from the bodyshop (Martin Pollard in Frampton on Severn ) called me after the rear wings had been removed to tell me that the corrosion in the skin was worse than expected and any "filling" of holes would be a temporary repair that would last a year to eighteen months ☹️.I decided that a full re-skin was the best way to go - so Martin Pollard (with Millwood in Dursley's help) arranged for the car to go to Arch for the re-skin. It was then brought back to him to paint and reassemble. The colour was sent off to be matched by the bodyshop's paint suppliers (hence the cut out in the original skin to the rear panel skin shown in one of the photos). The aim was to match the original colour as closely as possible. As far as I know the original BRG was that as supplied by Caterham (the car is factory assembled model). I don't know the paint reference number/name but I vaguely remember being told it was a Fiat colour. It is a single pack paint system apparently. The steering rack - I intended to have restrictors fitted to the original rack (Martin Pollard said he would do this for me as part of the reassembly after the bodywork) but it was impossible to get the rack apart to fit them without damaging it. So in the end I had a new rack fitted. Like I said the whole project cost me a fortune in the end 😳. If you read the captions on my photos you'll see the list of what got changed/renewed as part of the "conversion" process. Best of luck with yours 😬 Nemo 1990 1700 X Flow Super Sprint Photos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK FLASH Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 Brucey, Why do you spoil an original Seven with this conversion and spend a lot of good money that you can use for other upgrades ? If you really want a modern Seven with cycle wings, buy a second one ! 😬 Jack Flash Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nemo Posted February 3, 2009 Share Posted February 3, 2009 Oh dear, here we go with the clamshell v cycle wings thing 😬 1990 1700 X Flow Super Sprint Photos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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