Pete-B Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 Brett at midlands has done the latest remap etc on my 150 and I'm really pleased with the result but how would I tell if I've got the right throttle quadrant (whatever that is) fitted. If it is, or was, the wrong one would this have been corrected when they did the upgrade? Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windy Corner Posted August 10, 2009 Author Share Posted August 10, 2009 Pete, I wouldn't have thought Brett would have changed the throttle quadrant as part of the routine procedure. Not sure how to tell the difference between throttle quadrants, as I haven't seen the new one yet, but if Farreaster could email me some photos I would be happy to host them. Rik Roadsport SV 1.6 Sigma 150 in Viper Blue here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TobyCoulson Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 One thing I have noticed that after a longish run the idle speed is lower than it used to be and the car seems as though it may stall. I guess a minor adjustment is probably needed to rectify this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windy Corner Posted August 10, 2009 Author Share Posted August 10, 2009 After the new map, my idle speed dropped to 900 rpm from about 1050-1100, seems fairly stable though and hasn't shown any sign of stalling yet. R Roadsport SV 1.6 Sigma 150 in Viper Blue here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TobyCoulson Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 Mine's gone from 1000 to about 700 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete-B Posted August 10, 2009 Share Posted August 10, 2009 Thanks Rik, would appreciate that Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windy Corner Posted August 11, 2009 Author Share Posted August 11, 2009 Farreaster's photos can be found here He'll be along soon to add some detail I'm sure Rik Roadsport SV 1.6 Sigma 150 in Viper Blue here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farreaster Posted August 11, 2009 Share Posted August 11, 2009 Thanks Rik, The 1st photo is the old quadrant in situ, the 2nd both old & new side by side and the 3rd the new quadrant in situ. In the 2nd photo the difference in diameter is obvious, an increase from 18.5 mm to 31.5 mm. This should be easily apparent when comparing the 1st and 3rd photos. The quadrant is located in between the 2 pairs of throttle bodies and is mounted on the spindle of the rear pair. Because the TB's are so close the quadrant cannot be replaced without removing both TB's, took about 2 hours total. Malcolm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shminky Posted August 11, 2009 Share Posted August 11, 2009 Cheers for all the updates. When I get a spare mo - looks like I'll be booking it in for the latest map... Daren -- Shminky -- Edited by - Shminky on 11 Aug 2009 18:29:06 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete-B Posted August 11, 2009 Share Posted August 11, 2009 Thanks Malcom and Rik for taking the trouble, all becomes clear. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Gent Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 Got mine flashed over the weekend and must say found that at motorway speed it was a lot smoother, non of that hesitation you get sometimes at 3,500 rpm. Need to give it a proper work out though to check it out, but initial impressions are that the idle is slightly up, needle just below the 1,000 rpm line, was nearer to 850 beforehand and also that there it doesn't seem quite as settled in slow moving traffic. I found that when crawling in slow moving traffic there was a lot more jerkyness? not quite sure how to explain it. Anyway I suppose more reason to take it back out again to try and get a better impression of it's handling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoops Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 Had mine done at the same time as Richard The flat spots seem to have gone and I no longer have to hold the revs on the throttle on cold startup. Idles at 900 where as before it was struggling at 700ish. Agree with Richard there does seem to be a little more of a hair throttle in stop start traffic but I'm happy to come to terms with this if it means I don't have to heel and toe a junctions for the first 5 mins of any blat. PS radiator died on the way to dartford (second one) impressed that rad was changed whilst there and expansion cap replaced just in case and the bonnet cleaned FOC in about an hour including the ecu flash. *thumbup*Caterham aftersales Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farreaster Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 The "jerkyness in slow moving traffic" described by Richard and the "hair throttle in stop start traffic" by Scoops appears to be a common problem with this map. Certainly going to the larger dia. throttle quadrant helps but the basic issue remains. With regard to my car I have a steady tickover at about 900 rpm, if I very delicately (in neutral) increase the throttle opening the revs initially fall to a lumpy 750 rpm before rising to higher rpm's. In other words there is a flat spot just off tickover, it is probable that this lack of proportionality is giving rise to the symptoms described by Richard and Scoops. Could I ask that other sigma 150 owners try this simple test, if it is a common feature it may well be worthwhile approaching Caterham for remap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TobyCoulson Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Just fired up my Sigma 150 and left it to run for a while to warm it up as it's been taken to have some cosmetic work done on it and didn't want the guy doing the work to drive it from cold. It would not tick over as the idle speed had dropped alarmingly and would stall at every opportunity unless a bit of throttle was applied. After the recent upgrade I have mentioned that the slow idle had been causing problems but not as bad as this. Has anyone else had a similar problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Gent Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Fired mine up yesterday morning and had it idling for a minute or so while I closed the garage door and got comfy. Seemed fairly steady just below 1000 rpm, also noted that it appeared to start more easily than normal? Perhaps because it hadn't been left to sulk too long in the garage since I had last used it.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eccles Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Not me, used the car at the weekend and it is still running/ticking over well. Have you tried switching on and off the ingnition half a dozen times with no throttle to reset the throttle pot value? Also if you have a voltmeter try measuring the value of the throttle pot, using the laptop via the ECU mine was measuring 1.03V. Regards Ivan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin J Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Blimey, 11 pages talking about faults with the sigma 150! Am I glad I've got the 125, sweet as a nut & you never seem to hear of problems with that lump & it's used in the acadamy race series 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domus Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Helping me to make up my mind, I think the 175 might be just out of reach, so I might play safe and go 125. Test drive on Friday 😬 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin J Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Good move! Also the 125 has the same torque as the 150 but at lower revs 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domus Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 This has got me thinking, a great deal of the Caterham ownership thing for me is the thought of building the thing in the first place. What happens in cases such as those listed on the previous posts? When I bought my last two cars (Audi, Mazda) they came with a three year warranty, Audi and Mazda assist (for three years) and a network of dealers. In all that time all I needed was a replacement coil pack on the MX-5, and a new parcel shelf for the Audi (slight rattle) If and when I build my 7, put in the fuel and it does not start what do I do in my garage in the frozen North West? What do I get in the shape of warranty for my £20,000+? Edited by - Domus on 7 Sep 2009 21:28:04 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Windy Corner Posted September 7, 2009 Author Share Posted September 7, 2009 Please don't get me wrong, this 11 page epic was started to solve a seemingly innocent niggly problem. It turned out to be a mapping problem that Caterham have now fixed, certainly in my case, to my satisfaction. The support I got from Brett at Cat Mids, and discussions with Robin at Dartford, couldn't have been better. My 150 is now fine, and is the car I want it to be, I would have liked the 175, but I settled for a used 150 as I thought the 125 would always be wanting a little extra....If a used 175 had been about, I would have considered that, but now I know about the issues I would have no problem recommending a 150 to anyone. Also I have spoken to many 150 owners who have had no such issues and are pleased with their lot, "if it aint broke, don't fix it" I don't know about warranties as I bought mine "pre-owned" from Cat South, who gave me a 6 month warrranty that Cat Mids honoured admirably. Domus, suggest you ask Caterham about your warranty concerns, and test drive both, like I did if you can. Where are you test driving, Midlands ?? I should be there Friday at some point........... Rik Roadsport SV 1.6 Sigma 150 in Viper Blue here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shminky Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 As standard you get a years warranty. I was unable to start mine after building it - it was down to a faulty earth in the wiring loom. Although frustrating that I couldn't be the one to start it, Caterham were good at getting it resolved - although stuff like this are covered in the build checks - the warrenty doesn't kick in until the car's on the road... I've also had a number of other issues, faulty speedo, 3 radiators, plus others and have always been happy how it gets resolved under the warrenty. Domus - Go 150 or 175.. You'll regret it if you don't.. I'm already thinking of a Duretec and mine's only been on the road 1 1/2 years :-) More power more power... -- Shminky -- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domus Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Midlands after lunch, look out for an eejit in an MX-5 with a huge grin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoops Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 As above I would have no doubts in recommending the 150 Drive as many as you can and pick the one you like the most. As per warranty you'll notice all/most of the remaps were outside warranty and all done FOC the same for the radiators which is the same on the 125. Dont take the length of blatchat thread as a negative point or you'll never ride a bike, talk to a policeman or even fill a canoe with self expanding 2 part filler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domus Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 fill a canoe with self expanding 2 part filler Damn, just about to do that Edited by - Domus on 8 Sep 2009 15:07:29 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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