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Classic double wishbone setup


magister

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I am looking to convert my 1998 Classic (8v VX) to a 'proper' double wishbone set up (currently, the lop link is located by the antiroll bar). (see Wanted section!)

1. Is there a single piece top wishbone that will fit to my car (trunnion / Triumph stub axles) rather than having a split arrangement.

2. Which anti-roll bar would be best to use? Car is used on roads + Club Speed Championship.

3. Also looking for a set of second hand Bilsteins. What are the differences in the way that these are attached to different cars? -mine has trunnion type suspension.

What will fit my chassis? Would, for instance, a set from a Superlight R fit?

 

Thanks PaulB

 

Edited by - magister on 2 Nov 2008 12:11:19

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magister. My car is a 2001 Classic VX with Bilsteins and trunnions and the Classic suspension. The wishbone front suspension was fitted to the Scholarship (pre Academy) cars. Is it worth while if you are not a racer? Ask the Graduate racers. You need to cut a hole in the bodywork to fit the link.Have you asked CC if they still have the necessary parts? if not how about Andy Macmillan.
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Make sure you do a search before doing this upgrade. The top wishbone rod ends that are supplied with the Caterham kit, have the wrong ball joint taper on the end, they are designed for the non trunnion uprights, which is a specific Caterham part and not Triumph. You can buy the correct rod ends from a motor factor, but you need the correct part number, if my memory serves me, they are a Fiat 132 part, that has a mm thread but an af taper, but do a search and you will find the part number
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Im interested in doing this conversion too.

I currently have the top wishbone conversion kit fitted, this means that in theory, that all I need to do is replace the top wishbone and ARB.

 

however I have a nagging doubt that a while ago, I read something that said the trunnion will be at the wrong angle (stressed) and it was advisable to change the bottom wishbone too.

 

Can anyone shed any light on this?

 

Steve

 

 

SE7EN-UP!

-----If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough.

-----

 

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se7en,

Yes the top wishbone does increase the caster angle but it creates no more stress than changing the washer spacers around on the later variable caster set up, it all certainly goes together without forcing anthing. I've been running the full top wishbonet up with trunnion lowers for about 8 years now along with numerous other people with no ill effects, it's all vicious rumours to get you to spend more money in my opinion. Also when I had my chassis rebuilt, Bruce at Arch was more than happy with the later top wishbones with the early trunnion lowers.

 

Cheers

Chris

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Hi all,

I also want to do this conversion.

Have Midas Metalcraft tubular top link fitted (about 1990 i think) with screw in ball joint which does allow camber change.

 

The later lower wishbone will not fit early chassis this has metalastic bush on front of chassis with 1/2 inch bolt.Have to modify front chassis for this.

 

But all is not lost am going to try these as my trunnions are 🙆🏻sed.[http://www.canleyclassics.com/products.asp?article=catkit1.xml]

they have trunnion type fitting on bottom.

 

The single piece top wishbone has a bracket which fits on the rear of the front anti roll bar bolts.

 

They did have grooved discs as well on website but cannot find at moment.

 

from richard.

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Hi all,

The advantage of the full top wishbone set up is

1.adjustable for camber,

2 it creates more caster which weights the steering slightly giving more stability especially under braking.

3 Although the stability under braking is also greatly improved as the full top wishbone doesn't flex anywehere near as much when loaded in brake as the the early forged link and roll bar set up, which is exasperated with modern sticky tyres.

 

There is no issue fitting the full (narrow track, de dion) wishbone with the correct QR1118S ball joint and correct anti roll bar and bracketry with the early trunnion upright and lower wishbone. As I said above I have a full parts list as to what is required and am happy to forward this but as far as I am aware I cannot attach the document to this thread.

Also I recently did some back to back tests with standard discs and EBC grooved discs both with M1144 and M1166 pads. I found no appreciable difference with the performance of either pad on the grooved disc over the plain disc, apart from they cost more ( some people like the look !!!).

 

Cheers

Chris

 

Edited by - Revin Kevin on 4 Nov 2008 19:10:45

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Hi Magister,

 

I'm running the Academy top wishbone . My car came with the green (stiff) front ARB. I found it was understeering badly after I swapped to yoko A539's at the start of the year so I changed to the red (stiff side of medium) ARB for the August Curborough events and the car is feeling much better with a nice balance now. The handling was neutral to slight oversteer. From what I could see, most of the vx classics competing at Curborough were on the red ARB. I also find the balance is much better on the road too.

 

See you next season!

 

Greg

 

Edited by - Greg P on 4 Nov 2008 19:51:44

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