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What have I started Words of widsom Please


Mcalvert

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What have I done?!? *eek*

 

A combination of a broken weld (wingstay to chassis), a few beers the night before and a nagging doubt that H5 URF, being 16 years old and not exactly lightly used, and I spent Saturday starting to take her apart for a complete strip down over the winter.

 

The thing is, my mechanical skills are, erm, limited and I've got a nagging worry at the back of my head that it may not be all plain sailing. So please, all those who have trodden this path before, please let me have your words of wisdom before I make too many obvious mistakes. It's the wiring that's worrying me most - is there a trick to labelling the wires up so that there is a chance that in a few months time it will all make sense again? I'm tempted by a new loom, but worried that this might make things more complicated still?

 

Anyway, be warned that there may me a lot of questions coming over the next few months *thumbup*

 

Michael.

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Speaking as someone who has done it (recently) - take notes on everything as figuring out what order to put it back again.... lots of photos. Lots of ziploc bags and a good marker pen.

 

Give me a shout re the nuts and bolts side of things (blatmail me)

 

Once I'm done with the canoe, happy to lend a hand.

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Laughs at the memory of the first attempt to fire it up afte rebuild. No fuel-pump. Odd.

 

Cutting long-story short, noticed that the foggy lit briefly each time I flicked the ignition on.

 

Daylight dawned - the connectors for the foggy and fuel-pump are identical - and inches apart at the back of the car... Doh! 😬

 

I wasn't too careful about labelling bolts etc. - ended up buying new sets from CC for a lot of it anyway.

 

          🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻

Alcester Racing

7s Equipe™

🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻 🙆🏻

 

Alcester-Racing-Sevens.com


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I never bother with labels on bolts and stuff . .. things like wishbone bolts, I'll tape to their mount, but the rest; I just chuck in a pot. Makes it more fun when putting it back together. There can't be more than a couple of hundred anyway - Caterhams aren't exactly of Space Shuttle complexity are they.

 

On wiring, labelling is useful though.

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Dont panic thats the main thing

As you take bolts out and remove bits put thye bolts and nuts back in the bits you remove.

As to wiring everyone who dosn't understand it PANICS.

it's actually quite easy as its colour coded and there is a diag on the FAQ

so fear not

 

Theres also lots of on line help on here so crack on.

 

jj

N.I. L7C AR 🙆🏻

Membership No.3927.

 

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You just need to be methodical Michael and label where possible as others have said. Small plastic bags (on a roll from the supermarket) and a permanent marker are ideal for labelling odd screws and fixings etc as are plastic 'takeaway' dishes.

 

I'll help on both rebuilds where I can but I've been detailed to do long overdue decorating this winter so time may be limited. I think I've been given these duties to keep me out of my own garage since a certain person let the cat out of the bag regarding my own plans! 😔

 

Only kidding Michael. *wink* 😬

 

 

Brent

 

2.3 DURATEC SV Reassuringly Expensive

R 417.39 😬

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A digital camera is an absolute must have *thumbup* The old phrase "a picture speaks a thousand words" could never be truer than when stripping a car!

Take photos of every connection and even the loom routing - you'll be glad you did! Also as already suggested masking tape is perfect and cheap for making labels - even to the point of putting it on panels to denote orientation etc. As an example I also used it to label the various rivnuts on the bulkhead panel and heater tray, took photos, then drilled out the rivnuts to have the panels powder coated. Invaluable when weeks (months *confused*) later you are trying to remember what went where!

 

Stu.

 

www.superse7ens.co.uk..........the rebuild 😬

 

 

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As has been said, at that age your wing holes will not be as per the "standard" spacing

Drill a hole at the highest point of the rear wing (before you remove it) where there is a small metal plate just by of the top damper mount.

If you get this one point right you should be able to hang the wing on just one bolt and line up the front and rear edges.

 

I found a 7inch diameter wire brush on a bench grinder was rather useful, even if just to have a look at what is underneath the crap / rust / paint before throwing it away.

 

Nick

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Thanks for the advice so far. Looks like Caterham can still have a loom made up for me - does anyone know if this comes labelled up. or is it just colour coded?

 

There wan mention of a wiring diagram on the FAQ but I can;t see that :-( I do have a wiring diagram for a Crossflow (probably a few years after mine was built) - hope that has not changed too much. I'm hoping that Caterham technical can sort me out if not.

 

Regards,

 

Michael.

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Worry ye not Michael, I have a wiring diagram of the same vintage as H5 URF. The only complex part is behind the dash really - everything else is pretty self-explanatory. The wrapping on my loom was in a dire state at the extremes, mainly due to oil contamination, but rewrapping with loom tape (available from Frosts), repairing some chafed cables in the tunnel and replacing corroded terminals etc. has restored it. A good quality ratchet crimper is a must - you're welcome to borrow mine. A new loom probably isn't essential but would certainly save you a lot of time.

 

The advice above regarding templates for wing holes etc. is certainly top as I probably fretted more about drilling holes in the new skins than anything else.

 

I also have lots of plastic crates and catering size coffee tubs for putting removed components in, although you may have to fight Chris for those *tongue*

 

And don't forget to shout when you need some additional spannering hands in the garage *smile* Of course if you don't want to take me up on this offer for fear of Brunero Syndrome contagion I quite understand 😳

 

Crudders

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