Willie.

Julian, If you remember the reason (For a solid spacer), I'd be interested to know. Could it be so you could get decent torque on the pinion nut (Without affecting the position?) Never heard of people doing that before. You've got me intrigued now. Willie

That'll be the super lightweight alloy casing then? 😬 Willie

JT, Is the 'cooking' just a gentle heating, so the casing is at its working/heated size? I've never built an English diff, but have LSD'd my De Dion (Sierra) diff...which was a piece of cake. The English is more difficult. As boss says, its the gear meshing that's tricky. On your old diff, use some engineers blue to determine where abouts the gears are meshing (Inside, outside or middle of crown wheel) and then measure the back lash. Setup a clock/dial gauge, clamp the pinion and measure the backlash in the crown wheel. Take 3 meaurements around it (They should be almost identical). The tricky bit really is the pinion. You may need a big, deep socket to torque it up. It has a crushing tube/spacer...and the aim of the game is to gradually pull it down til it's in the correct position (You can only tighten, so go slowly). You'll need to pull it down until it's nearly right...then fit your crownwheel so its in the correct fore/aft position (Shim it to stop it sliding, and put the U brackets on to hold it). You can now use the engineers blue again, and keep tightening the pinion bolt until the pinion is running in its original position on the crown wheel. (There is likely a torque figure for the pinion bolt, but be very careful...its easy to overshoot, and then you'll need a new crushable spacer). Next you need to adjust the sideways position of the crownwheel. That is what determines the backlash. On the Sierra diff its dead easy, just turning the side nuts...but on English axles its trickier as you've to do it with the shims. Obviously you need to get your clock/dial gauge out again, and you're aiming to get the same backlash as before. Once you're there...you've to fit equal extra shims either side to preload it as necessary. I'd advise getting it out and having a look at it. You know what needs done, and with the diff in your hands you'll be able to decide if its your kind of job or not. Just my 2p. I'm sitting in the house feeling miserable...so that's my days work done Willie

Link Here They've gone up a bit now...still cheap at that though Willie

Any good for cleaning xflow cylinder heads? 😬 😬

Petrolhead, Thanks for that. Good idea. It started out as a 1.4k Supersport, and did the majority of its milage with that engine. I replaced it last year with the 1.8k Supersport at about 60k miles (I have the exact figure at home). Willie

Hello there, Don't let the slack belt between the pulleys fool you. You just want to make sure nothing has turned (Cams are in the correct position relative to crank), which should be the case if you've kept the cam locking tool in. I triple check that all 3 pulleys are in the correct position, then roughly tension the belt. Remove the locking tool and turn it over by hand. At some stages the belt my go loose between the pulleys...this is ok, so long as you've the belt nice and tight on the long run from exhaust cam to crank. The reason the belt goes slack between the pulleys when you're timing it, is simply because of how the cams are rocking on springs etc. When its running, the cranking is constantly pulling the belt down...which pulls the exhuast cam...which pulls the inlet cam...and so there is never any slack when running. I had the same panic. If you're in any doubt that the pulleys are not in the right position, stop. And start again. Just my 2p. Willie

See Pistonheads for photos. £10,250 - if interested, make me an offer - Caterham 7 Supersport - 1994 - De Dion chassis - 1800cc K Series - Supersport - Big Valve & Ported Head - Piper Adjustable Cam Pulleys (Verniers) - Supersport Cams - Supersport ECU - Repackable Powerspeed 4-2-1 Stainless Exhaust System - Caterham 6 Speed Gearbox - TranX Plate Type LSD (3.92) - Standard Track - 8% Quick Rack - AVO Adjustable Dampers All Round - 14" Minilight Style Alloy Wheels (4 of ) - Toyo R888 Tyres - FIA Roll Bar - ‘Big Red’ Starter Button - Toad Immobilisor - FIA Battery Switch - Tonneau - Sidescreens - Full Hood - Heated Windscreen - Heater - Wind Deflectors - 4 Point Harnesses - Leather Seats (Pre S-Type) - Momo Leather Steering Wheel - Alloy 6spd Gear Knob - 12V Lighter Socket - Sigma Sport Cycle Speedo/ODO/Computer MOTed to December (will be renewed). Taxed to 03-08 Dyno'd in September 07 at Dave Walkers/Emerald @ 148.1bhp 72k miles It has stone chips, and a small bit of aluminum corrosion on the nearside lower panel (Hidden behind exhaust), and a few knocks on the rear panel. It comes with the owners manual, build manual, history and loads of spares. This is an honest Caterham with loads of toys, only selling as I’d like to purchase a Superlight R. Willie edited to update 'TAXed to' date. Apologies for the mistake...if it affects anyone. Edited by - Opposite Lock on 15 Nov 2007 20:41:43 Edited by - Opposite Lock on 26 Nov 2007 21:35:30

While you're at it, check the bolt in the bottom pulley is tight...they've a habit of going slack. Willie

here At 1:38

Robin Can I have the Throttle Cable please? If only you'd posted on Saturday...when mine broke. YHM Willie

Tim, I think you've got mixed up a bit. Surely you meant to say it's like the differnce between Pavarotti and Britney Spears. One's big and doesn't (Didn't) move too much...the other is slim and twitchy. 😬 I know which one I'd prefer Willie

Well, I just drilled out a few rivets and...mine has it. YAAHOOO. Ahem* It's a 94 De Dion, which started life as a 1.4 Supersport. You'll only be able to tell by taking the rivets out. The sill protector holds the inner panel out so that it sounds hollow...and the outer panel is tight because its flush to the joint of tubes. Willie

Just incase anyone else needs to know, Winged Aviation, motorport end 01604 670992 are the best for CDS tube. Quoting almost half the price of everyone else...and staff that know what they're talking about (I repect anyone who works in feet and inches, and talks about guage instead on 'thickness'). Depending on delivery cost...there'll be a big load of CDS heading my way Yummy Willie

Thanks to everyone for their help. The only definite way of finding out is going to be pulling out a few rivets and having a peak. I'll do this in the next couple of days and let everyone know my findings. Maybe even do it tonight. Willie

Rob, How'd he weld them in with the outer skin still in place? Did he MIG them? Willie

Hello... Does anyone know what year Caterham started fitting chassis with bosses at both sides for the cage/petty strut? My '94 car has a boss for a petty strut on the passenger side...I'm wondering if it will have the boss on the drivers side too. I could take a few rivets out and check, but if anyone knows it would save me some work. Willie

Thanks lads, I'm guessing it'll be the delivery (To N.Ireland) that'll hurt the most. I'll check both tomorrow. Maybe just have to buy in bulk Willie

Adam, Thanks, just been on their site. I never expect decent engineering companies to have decent websites. If they have a smashing website...they usually have some half wit answering the phones. Gimmie a wick site and an oily old man any day Thanks for your help...I'll give them a ring tomorrow and see what the craic is. Willie Edited by - Opposite Lock on 18 Oct 2007 18:13:40

I need some Cold Drawn Seamless tube, 32mm & 38mm OD. Roll bar quality, ideally T30 or similar. Looking a few lengths of each. I can't find any suppliers this side of the trough, does anyone know of any suppliers who could deliver, at a sensible price? (I got one quote, guy musta thought he was dealing with Richard Branson though). Willie

Don't worry Johnty; there are already plenty of people on here to correct you...I'll leave them to it. Willie p.s. Steve -

Don't panic...I haven't taken anything seriously since the day I was born 😬

It's not the most simple, but it's not overly complicated...slap a Lotus Twincam head on it. One of the best sounding engines you can get. I've some parts collected for doing the conversion myself, but never got round to it. Willie

Mike, I'm 22 and have no money. Why spend £1k plus on a brand new engine, to replace all the bearings etc with uprated ones anyway? Why not get the whole car for £400, split it, you'll easily make your 400 back...and then spend the big bucks putting fancy stuff into it? I can't afford to spend money on stuff I'm just going to throw out. Willie p.s. Buying cars is a family trait of ours...

They're not all surviving... Thank goodness. When you're 11years old, attending the big school, and your dad has a festish for Montegos...it kinda puts you off them. May they rust with haste. Ma wrote off a pale puke/cream 1.6, Da was raging...we were estatic