Willie.

Nick, was it an odd fault, like it happened at no particular time, or was it repetitive (Happened when you did the same thing)? Should've said, this is a K-Series car with the earlier VDO instruments. Senders are bloomin' expensive, might just fit a mechanical guage for the time being (So I can be sure what I'm seeing is real damage ☹️) Willie

Have posted this on the NiSe7ens list too, but JJ's too busy celebrating his MOT pass to reply. The oil pressure drop on left handers was on Toyo T1-Rs. Not overly sticky. The bit that is confusing me is why it is on left handers, and not right handers. Surely on left handers, the oil is surging over to the pickup side, and so there should be no problem. Could it be the sender at fault somehow? I have no apollo. And intend to drill the sump gasket when I drop it for a look in a week or two. Although, I assume the oil is getting into the sump ok as it doesn't drop on right handers. I agree a dry sump is the best option for surge...I'm just trying to work out if I'm actually getting surge or not.

Here's something for you all to think about... On one trackday I had low oil level (It was low, and getting used, so level dropping) and the oil pressure dropped on right handers until I ended up running the bearings...because I was a wolly and having too much fun to stop. On the next trackday (With a new engine), I had sufficient oil volume, but the oil pressure guage dropped on left handers (Debtors and chicane exit). This is odd. It is logical to assume that oil pressure change during a corner is a result of surge...but the pickup pipe is at the top right (Viewed from above with top being front of car). And so you would expect it on right handers...not left. It means that I end up going slow around the big sweepers and looning through the twisties. I have an electronic oil pressure guage, no sump foam, a windage plate and the standard sump gasket. Any ideas? Willie

Nothing to do with me, but possibly of interest are these

Looks well. Good job. One of our local guys has just fitted one of these It's wireless. It uses two batteries, one in each end, and a transmitter off the brake light switch. He says it works very well, with only the tiniest delay between brake application and illumination. Other, "helmet" brake lights are available, some that work with a transmitter in a replacement brake light bulb, see here for examples. Just thought I'd mention it here for anyone else considering this...not to take away from your lovely install Willie

Is this the straight tube cage, or the curved top tube? Willie

Which gasket?

YHM

Delbert, You can get gear calculators that will tell you in precise detail how it will affect the various gear ratios (i.e. road speed at certain rpm). Handy to see how differing diff rations, tyres and so on can affect gearing. I have GearCalc by Peter Ogden, Blatmail me your email address and I'll send you it if you like. Willie

Tim, Hydraulic tappets can take an age to fill up after the engine has been built/sitting for a period of time. To reset the ECU: Ignition on Press throttle to floor 5 times quite quickly Ignition off If you do it in a garage, or somewhere quiet, you should be able to hear the IACV whizzing on Ignition Off. Willie

Foggy, Should've said that earlier, when I talked about the rack, I was really meaning the whole steering "bar" (i.e. rack, rods and ends). It sounds like your rack is not central, and the error has been "fixed" by track rod end adjustment and then the steering wheel centerred by the splined rack input shaft. The distance between rod ends defines toe in/out. The location of the rod ends on the rods, defines the central position of the rack. It's a bit of an awkward job to adjust that wee splined boyo, so I'd see if the workshop will fix it for you.

James/Foggy, What size of wheels/tyres are you running? I've narrow track with 185/60 14 on 6inch rims...and they're fine. I think some racks have stops to stop contact, but I was under the impression this was only flared arches. Willie

Foggy, I don't have a removeable wheel, but never thought about it only going on in one position. Any I've experienced (2 - both single seater racing cars) I am pretty sure go on in any position. I just assumed that the garage setup the toe in/out and then put the wheel back on, round a further spline. Is yours splines, or a hex/octagonal shaft? If it only goes on in one position...I'm talking baloney. Suspension being on droop would make wheels slightly closer to the body, but should be equal both sides.

Is the steering wheel centerred? If you've got more lock one way than the other, and toe in/out is ok, the steering rack is not central when the wheels are. I'm not a betting man...but I'd put my money on you have a quick release steeing wheel. Edited by - Opposite Lock on 25 Mar 2008 23:21:10

Rob, Thanks for that. That's the sorta info I was after. Must have a think about it (I have a few silly ideas in my head at the minute). Mickrick, I'm currently trying to work out what I want to be if I ever grow up. Saturday night, painting in the snow showers (by torch-light) the trusses of my £350 sectional garage...got a big dollop of hammerite in the eyeball. With my head under the tap, I began to wonder...what am I at? Then I come online and read about this punter who has a hot Caterham, lives on a hot island and steers a great big hot boat for a living...I'm in the wrong occupation. Anyone want me to look after their R500 and drive it about for them? 😬 Willie Edited by - Opposite Lock on 24 Mar 2008 23:40:27

Wow. I'm definetly n the wrong job. Those boats are amazing (Hope you don't mind, had a look through the other photos; engine pics, bow thruster etc). There must be some noise from that inlet. The only boat I've ever worked on...is my 60hp 14ft Glastron. Something similar to your gin palace

Mickrick, Doens't answer...but definetly interesting. Big boat engines are fascinating, some really smart engineering goes into them (Which I must confess I have little knowledge off). I have a mate who was an Engineer on a few different boats, including an Ice Breaker laying pipes North East of Canada. On his first boat he brought his bike to get around it. I remember him saying that on the last one he was one, the engines were actually just big generators, powering electric motors. He was diagnosed diabetic and had to drop it. But we're away way off topic now 😬

Its a bigger shame when they come on display with a bang 😬 Slightly related topic, does anyone now how important oil mist is for cooling the piston? Would a piston with a sealed bottom overheat the crown? Willie

Cheers Slipper Man. Willie

Unforunately I have to withdraw...purely because I can't get it home. Someone is going to get a smashing engine crane for a really, REALLY good price. Apologies to all, espically Gambo. Sorry mate. Willie

Slipper man, I sure would like a picture or two off it. I can stick them on my online sharing widget if you'd like them available to all. If you have them on the computer, would you mind sending me a couple? (If so I'll Blatmail you with my email address). Willie

Millsn, Asking which rod is better is something similar to asking which flavour of chocolate is better. Everyone has their own taste. (Although we all know milk chocolate is the best). This debate, H beam against I beam has been going on for years, and its very difficult to get a definitive answer. As usual, all the waffle that I am about to speil is purely my own waffle and I am happy to be corrected as necessary, providing sufficient evidence is present. Just incase anyone is confused, the beam pattern, or section, is given, as if standing beside the engine, crankshaft running left-right and looking down at the connecting rods. Therefore the I is “open” left and right, and the H is “open” top and bottom. Firstly, it is important to realise that the reason rods are H or I section, is to reduce mass...and have that mass where it most beneficial. Mass near the centre is not as beneficial to strength as mass further from the centre. Consider a very tall pole with a platform on the top. The platform can sway about, left to right. Now, divide the mass of that pole in two, and have a thinner pole at the left and right of the platform. No mass is in the centre, but the same mass is used to better effect. This is easiest understood by what I call the ruler principle. Consider a normal plastic ruler. On its flat it is very flexible, but on its side it is stiff. This is because on its side, the mass is further from the centre (Really the centroid – the centre of it in section) and is more beneficial, whereas on its flat, almost all its mass is concentrated near the centroid and is of much less benefit. This is the principle used in the Freestyle anti-roll bar. What forces must a connecting rod deal with? Compression, tension and arguably some torque. Lower revving, big power engines, with forced induction or nitrous can bend rods due to compression. However, for higher revving engines, it is much more common to bend rods in tension...when over revving. A failure in compression is when the small end is pushing down faster than the big end can move. Something must give, and if it is the rod (And not the crank) it will usually bend or occasionally break. This bend is usually in the weakest plane. Again, consider the ruler principle, stand it on its end and push down, it will bend in the weakest plane. Have a look herefor an example of conrods bent in compression. A failure in tension is when the big end is pulling down faster than the small end can move. Due to the swing of the crank, rods that bend as a result of tension are bent “over the crank”. The rod will have a bend when viewed from the side (Looking from end of engine). Have a look at these here here here for a few examples of rods bent in tension. It seems logical to stipulate that, we needs rods sufficiently strong to deal with the compression and tension forces present. However, as any mass in a conrod is reciprocating mass, it is essential that they are as light as possible. Therefore, most tend to be designed with a kind of balance between mass organised for compression and mass organised for tension. To understand how the rods will be strongest, consider the section, or pattern, as rulers like before. An I section has two rulers for left-right strength, and one for over the crank/top-bottom strength. An H section has two rulers for over the crank/top-bottom strength, and one for left-right strength. Based on the above, it is my opinion that when considering rods of equal mass, an H section rod will be better in tension than an I section rod. However, I also consider an H section to be superior to an I section in compression. This is due to the widths of the “rulers” or webs. Look at the following diagrams: ---- . I . I . I . I ---- I . . . .I I . . . .I I-------I I . . . .I I . . . .I In an I section, the main web is weak in the left-right plane, and this strength is granted by the other two webs, which are strong in that plane. However, their maximum width is governed by the width of the big end. An H section’s main webs are strong in the top-bottom plane, but having two webs helps to reinforce the strength of the left-right single web also (Consider that you are more stable with your legs apart than together). Some argue that this theory can be applied to the two webs of the I section, in that they also offer reinforcement top-bottom strength, however I consider the H section’s middle web is of more structural importance in compression than the I section’s two webs, as the H’s middle web is supported on both sides and is positioned central, so that in compression it’s strength is better used and transmitted to the other webs. (Although I see this as a marginal advantage). Forces are purely what a conrod has to deal with from both ends. We also have to consider what a conrod must deal with in its environment, and this is where people tend to prefer the I section rod. In the bore the rod is operating in a mist of oil. It has been often said that an H section would tend to collect more oil mist due to its open sided design. Personally I’d be more worried about the bottom of the piston than the conrod. In summary, its not fair to say that all H section rods are better than I sections, as it depends on the actual design of the individual rods. A well designed I section could be miles better than a cheapo H section. Its also not fair to say that all I sections are lighter, as again this depends on design. If it was me, building a high performance engine, where I wanted the best components, and cost was not the major concern, I would fit high quality H section conrods, before I would fit I section rods. But then again...I might just try to find some nice X Section rods like these here Edited because it took me bloomin' ages to fix the diagrams Edited by - Opposite Lock on 21 Mar 2008 00:29:48

Cheers, that's what I was after. Has anyone ever tried covering them in anything more glamorous than tape? I'm thinking along the lines of vinyl or similar. Willie

Not really a hijack...has anyone got a pic of one of these seats in a Caterham? I've pre-S type seats which don't give me enough lateral support. S-Types aren't comfy and I haven't tried Tillets yet. Just wondering if these could be a cheaper option. Willie

What TB are you running? Is it the alloy one with a big alloy cube thing out the side/bottom of it (With a connector going into it)? Some of the early alloy TBs have an idle air control valve built into them. You should let the IACV control idle air, otherwise you will get slow rev drop when you lift the throttle. It shouldn't be missing. It's likely that the missing is related to the smell of petrol. Possibly a plug not sparking causing unburt fuel. I would get the cooling system fitted and bled, then investigate the misfire (How sure are you that the cams are timed correctly?)