Rob Walker
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Everything posted by Rob Walker
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Is the engine wet sumped? Slightly overfilled would give the same problems that you are experiencing as the wet sump suffers badly with windage.
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Just received a set of each from Yvan. Nice quality at at bargain price. Yvan told me that he had just had another batch of stickers manufactured so get in touch before they are all gone. They cost £5 per set including p&P. Email: smets.yvan@outlook.com Cheerio Rob -
How many do you need? I may have 3 somewhere in my store. Cheerio Rob
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Hi Can anyone please help me out as to where I might get a set of seals for the Bulk buy trolley jack the blue one that Norman Verona organised. Mine has started leaking. Cheerio Rob
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Sold thank you
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Bought in error two MD 80 Mini DV DVR sports cameras. Video output 720 x 480p at 30 FPS. 2 hour lithium batterys. chargers and USB leads. Supports Windows 98SE,2000ME,XP,Vista and windows 7 onwards. My PC is a Mac so I cannot use them. Super little cameras ideal for mounting descretely on your 7 when at the ring. Data is stored on micro SDHC cards which are not included but can be bought on line for around £5 for 8GB. I want £15 for the cameras this price includes postage. Grab a bargain Rob
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You should be chiseling off the heads of the old rivets and tap the remaining bit of the rivet into the tube no need to drill new holes . Not desirable to drill new holes weakens the chassis.
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Ian, Ed roller /PowerVamp recomended a Jet Ski battery for my 7. It was a Hawker Odessey PC865 or 685 IIRC he said it was just as rugidly built but does not have the racey red colour scheme and half the price of the race battery , lasted 6 years then I sold the car with it still going strong.
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Still overtemp with no stat can only be:- Reduced or lack of coolant flow/ airlocked Radiator fans running in wrong direction ie in opposition to incoming air flow. Too small a radiator or restricted airflow. I have built several duratec cars and never had any issues with high water temps quite the reverse, I have seen high oil temps using the wet sump but in general the main problem is getting the engine to hold 80C and above even with one third of the rad blanked off and the oil cooler blanked off on road use. There should be no need to consider a swirl pot , Something is wrong with your installation. I agree 104C is getting a bit too high for the coolant I would want to see around 95C coolant and upto 105C bulk oil on track
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Remove the thermostat and see it it still overheats
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I use a product called "Permabag" to store my 7 in a damp garage. Its a large durable polythene bag with what looks like a divers drysuit zip down one side. The damp is removed from inside the bag by two canisters that hold silica desicant. At one end of the bag is a clear viewing window that houses the humidity monitor. The advantage of this product is that it needs no power to operate and the canisters can be re-used after drying them out on a conventional kitchen oven. Superb product can even be used outside.
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BTTT hopefully
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Early EU2 K series engines pistons have been proven to be durable in tuned engines, EU3 engines mark the start of the piston problems and failures were common in the untuned race cars IIRC the pistons were upgraded as a precaution on the race cars.
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The product is Carplan Brake and parts clear available from GSF motor factors £12 for 5L. I use loads of it. The tin does not disclose the full formula but does say that the cleaner contains 30% Aliphatic Hydrocarbons and 5% anionic surfactants. Smells like carbon tet to me.
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Brake cleaner is basically carbon tretrachroride or dry cleaning fluid, this dissolves the fatty deposits that build up on the swade making it shinny. I also use this on my clothes and carpet stains so not harsh IME.
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Brake cleaner and a nail brush works for me
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New Radiator only lasted a few months now leaking - Replace or repair?
Rob Walker replied to glasgow's topic in TechTalk
I sent one back for repair to Radtec, the repair looked like they had identified the leak and covered the area in JB Weld. Then pressure tested it and sent it back free of charge, Great Company to deel with. I was advised that I had been using the wrong type of coolant ( the pink 5 year stuff from Halfords) apparently this contains OAT ( organic acid technology) and damages the Radtec ali rads, he showed me the black oxide deposits inside the rad caused by the OAT. Was advised to use the cheaper blucol. Also told that the latest Radtecs had a new magnesium/aluminium alloy used for the core and this was expected to last longer . -
I have a brand new still in Caterham wrapping Black GRP nose cone to fit the S3 Caterham. I have sold my black and ali car so its surplus to requirements. I want £130 for it saving you £44 on Caterhams price. Tel 01275 371255 email robertallanwalker@icloud.com
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Hi, Anyone know the paint code for Caterham Red and also what colour/type of primer is used to make a match with the TSK /factory painted cars? I want to tidy up my last car and hopefully get away with a part respray. Cheerio Rob
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ebay
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I managed to crack both my front wings with the tyre deformation driving the banked line through the carousel . As A10ROX posted I would drive round the top the banked section is very rough.
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Yes still available
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I found that the uprated MC helped me compensate for pad knock off and high brake temps/long peddle on track. It takes some getting used too as it has a very dead feel and is not to every bodies liking.
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Myles, I am talking about the amount of rotation of the diff input flange the bit the prop fastens to. Ford specify 1/32" backlash. That is the amount the diff flange which is bolted to the pinion moves within the crown wheel. Other words virtually nothing.
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There should be only the smallest amount off play in the diff ( 0.5mm) when holding the driveshafts at the inner most point and turning the diff input flange. Some of our favourite gearbox/diff rebuilders build them with far too much backlash IMO, with the view that this backlash will be taken up by expansion when hot and in use. My view is that the casing is cast aluminium and the diff is steel and that the casing will expand far more than the diff so any back lash will increase, hence why most diffs in our cars are very noisy after hard use. I hate driving a seven with driveline backlash, feels horrible on light throttle . Rob
