Steve-B
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Everything posted by Steve-B
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Guy, I've got a Omega Seamaster Racing Titanium Chronograph with all paperwork, box, etc that I'm considering putting up for sale, if a Rolex isn't the only watch you'd consider. BM if interested….
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Mav, our pickup was early May 2002, the 3rd SV with a VHPD engine which was a per-negotiation request (Fatcat and Miraz were the other two) but in 2001-2 the SV wasn't selling as well as it does now so SV's weren't a dime a dozen from the factory. Quoting mav: Steve - when was your collected then? Edited by - Steve-B on 26 May 2013 14:40:41
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Congrats in advance -- did that 12 years ago almost to this exact day and you'll love it!
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Dany I'll be curious as to how the look, quality, fit, etc as well! Do post some pics..! Quoting Dany: i've ordered a set of rear here : http://www.kitcardirect.co.uk/caterham-rear-wheel-arches-carbon-pair.html
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I don't get it…why not just fit the VW replacement sensor switch and be done with it? The VW sensor switch has been proven to be basically bulletproof and is far better than what came with our engines. Sometimes complexity escapes logic -- I seriously must be missing something here as we've had our car in 50C weather with the VW sensor switch and it works perfectly.
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I'm looking for a pair of rear carbon arches -- as one of ours was destroyed whilst in Oz. (I've now got 1 black GRP rear arch and 1 carbon rear arch, don't match, fugly!) I suspect someone here may have a pair of DOTP or similar just gathering dust that perhaps you'd consider making a deal on. BM me if you do, I could be very interested…..
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A lot of the PRB's and Birkins in Oz use the Cibie's and having had them behind me, they are VERY bright compared to what's in our Caterhams. If you figure there's hundreds to a few thousand cars with them, you really can't go wrong…. My lights at 12 years are starting to show some rust here and there and I've been contemplating long and hard moving to the Cibie's…….
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Paul -- you were @£$%ing lucky, I had 2 days of fighting to get it all apart last week to replace to re-present to MoT tester today. Peter, Draper make a joint spreader 2-tined fork looking thing that one hits (rather therapeutically I may add!) to split the join apart. Then Bob's your (incestous) Uncle to get at the ball joint…..good luck! As Mine hadn't been apart in 12 years, I've got several new tools now including a tap-n-die set, some groovy mole grips, and a face-off rather large 2.5Kg mallet.
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Hi Mankee and SM25T, The track rod end was the right one, and for £1.60 for a pair delivered next day that will work a treat so ordered. Thanks so very much -- POBC prevails, again
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Hi there, I failed MoT today due to the rubber gators on my front lower ball/rose joints failing. I'm not sure where to measure them as I need to get a new pair so I represent the car on Saturday AM. Does anyone know the size/part number from a proper car parts stockist? It would be helpful so I don't have to take one off, go to car parts shop, get wrong/right one, come back, repeat cycle... Appreciate any help you can offer!
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Andy, YHM, definitely want first dibs on one please...
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Ozzy, the 90-degree metallic elbow off of the gearbox can get filled with crud from the road. You can remove the speedo cable going onto it, then with a pair of needle nose pliers and a bit of oomph you can remove it. Be careful to save the connecting pin coming out of the gearbox! Spray wf-40 into the elbow and shake excess out. Let it dry, repeat. Then spray some light machine oil into it, it should turn very freely. That usually does it on our car, you may want to put the red tube on the oil tube and spray some down into the cable itself to give it a bit of a lube too whilst at it.
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Doesn't that imply that one has to take the radiators off of the wall vs. other suggestions of a wooden batten with the foil hooked to it you can just drop down behind the radiator and achieve the same with less mess, work and fuss? Quoting Stationary M25 Traveller: We just glue it to the wall (paper) with PVA.
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I've had 2 exhaust gaskets on our VHPD that had failed and both times it sounded like what you're reporting. Tightening the exhaust manifold bolts was a short term fix, but replacing and using new nuts was the only fix. I kept having a nagging feeling, put on a compression gauge and found @ 35K + miles less than 3psi difference across the 4 cyl's so chalked it up to the gasket.
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Sounds like I'm off to DIY store for some underfloor foil backing with some wood strips. Thanks y'all
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Jerry, That looks a lot like Peter's foil example, did you have to remove the radiator from the wall to fit it, or would my making a batten and attaching thick foil do the same? In your opinion of course
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THanks Peter and JK, I appreciate your points…! I thought quite a bit about these after reading on them, as internal solid walls aren't something I can get insulation into. Decorating wise, I agree that thick foil probably would work as well, and definitely be far cheaper. I just want to get maximum heat into the room and not lose what I don't have to. Cheers!
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Like a lot of folks, I'm always curious of new ways to improve heating in the house and not to pay the energy companies any more than I have to. I read an article on Heatkeeper panels a few days ago and am wondering if they're just snake-oil or of any real benefit? Curious if anyone here has used them, for feedback….
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I have just finally (don't ask -- we "got" a new Granddaughter that got in the way!) have finished the shock in question. The Ratchet Straps recommendation is absolutely a WINNER for spring compression!!! Once I figured out which coil circle level of the spring to get the straps onto, and got the two ratchets to stay put, this worked a treat! I owe you a pint (at least) Quoting myothercarsa2cv: When SM25T helped me fit the spring platforms, we used a combination of body weight, ratchet straps and hose reel bits. It was a bit Heath Robinson, but it worked 😬
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The USA 2005 email list is still active, Sheddy never took it down. I know I have one, but I'd suspect someone on the email list can help you out...
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We were heading to Bath to see a group of Se7eners for a party last night just coming off the M4 @ J18 there was an Orange "R40….." reg with tillets. Sadly the heavens had just decided to flush the sky onto your head with rain -- hope you made it back OK…! Edited by - Steve-b on 16 Dec 2012 21:26:55
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Ive got to drive back the above route either tues 31.7 or we'd 1.8 and can get some small/ med parts in our volvo über barge if you're in need please BM me by Sunday night.
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Of you try to remove a rear shock and haven't compressed the shock that's OK, but when you try to put it back on and the spring isn't compressed there's merry h3ll to the attempt. I was trying to compress before removal, so it will make the replacements more simple. Am I going about this in the completely wrong way? This is how I've done cars back to my 1966 Spitfire years ago; compress, remove, place shock, install.
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I have a set of Draper spring compressors and try as I may, you just can't get them onto the Bilstein adjustable dampers properly to remove from my SV. Curious as to what others are using, and where sourced from. DT, Halfrauds, etc don't seem to have anything better, but there has to be a place to get them from and I've just not found them. Anyone tried these from ScrewFix 🤔 Would love to find some -- soon as car has been off road too long now ☹️ Edited by - Steve-B on 11 Jun 2012 10:39:45
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Many of us have replaced the CC switch with a VW one. Here's the results of a search: -------- VW and many others use these switches. Typical part numbers are based on the Bosch system; 823-959-481/xx where xx = temp in °C -or- 823-959-481x x=letter designation to specify temp -or- 823959481/xx 823959481x Some car manufacturers remove the hyphens in the part number. The last letter designation will specify the temperature rating. Be aware it may change from one manufacturer to another. Here are examples of popular letter designations; 823-959-481D 77-82C 823-959-481E 70-75C 823-959-481F 87-92C 823-959-481A 87-92C ----------------- HTH, and FAR cheaper than CC!
