andrew_r

Pair of chassis stands. Very good condition. No longer needed as the build in nearing completing. Looking for £40 Located Bristol area

As the title says - I am selling a Duratec oil filter adpater complete with Modine Oil to water cooler as fitted to the CSR. New Looking for £50

As the title says - a compltete as new Focus wiring loom. Ideal for someone planning a Duratec conversion Looking for £75 Regards Andrew

Mav, I don't have a tray in my tunnel top so will it work by: 1. Press the start button to tuen ignition one 2. Wave dongle by the induction loop to disable the immobiliser (It is unlikely to stay in range) 3. Press start button to start the engine 4. Drive 5. Press start button to stop the engine Where does the red immobiliser LED mount in the R500 - it doesn't show it in the immobiliser manual. Thanks Andrew

Hi, I am building an R400 and the nylon adjuster on the handbrake cable slips when I pull the handbrake on hard. Any ideas how I cure this, do I need to change the cable because it's faulty. Thanks in advance. Andrew

Peter, did you get your immobiliser to work? I am building an R400 with keyless go and am currently deciding where to site the induction loop for the immobiliser. I don't have the tray in the console like the R500. Does the dongle need to remain in range once the immobiliser is deactivated and the engine started, or can I de-immobilise the car, start the engine, drive, turn engine off and then let the immobiliser passive arm after the 60 secs? Thanks Andrew

I am building an R400 with keyless go. I think I also have the Excel immobiliser. It has a round induction pickup to detect the dongle. Does anyone happen to know what the range of this is and does the dongle have to be in range all the time the car is being driven, or just long enough to get it started? If someone has the instructions, I would also appreciate a copy. Mine was fitted by Caterham, but no instructions supplied and no details in the build manual. Thanks in advance. Regards Andrew

I am building an R400 SV. The kit was delivered on the 18th of September. I am most of the way through the build. Everything apart from the Interior, fibreglass and lights complete. I haven't filled the fluids or started the engine yet though. My latest problem is the handbrake nylon adjuster is slipping so when I try to pull the handbrake on hard to lock the wheels to torque the propshaft the adjustmnt fails and I am left with rotating propshaft. I have stuck the carpets in, just need to torque up the prop before I loosen the handbrake off and rivet the tunnel top plate before fitting the tunnel top. The car I am building has R500 fuel system, R500 stack dash, switches, keyless go etc. It also has Jenveys in place of the plenum. Does anyone have an answer to the handbrake cable issue. Also, on the keyless go, what is the range of the immobiliser dongle and does it need to be close the the pickup all of the time or just long enough to disarm and start the car? Thanks for your help on this. Regards Andrew

Thanks, I thought that might be the case. Regards Andrew

Jeff, I am building an SV at the moment. The assembly manual says I should have under seat and under rubber mat carpets, but they don't appear to be in the bag. Do you have them? Thanks Andrew

Martin, can I ask a quick question. Was there a reason for fitting the boot cover so early? I have my all the mechanics finished, inlucing fitting the rollbar, but haven't fitted the boot cover. Am I missing something? Just the interior, lights and wheel arches to do I think?????? Thanks Andrew

You can get them from AES. Check them out on the web. The Caterham ones are about 4mm black nylon. REgards Andrew

I am in Weston super Mare and hoping to drop my Duratec in my R400 SV next weekend. Does anyone in the area have an engine crane I could borrow. Happy to pay beer tokens. Thanks Andrew

Paul. thanks. Is this OK - Loctite 5699 Premium Silicone Grey Gasket Maker/Sealant as you say from Halfords? Regards Andrew

Next easy question coming: I have a five speed gearbox and the gasket. The build manual says I need to smear the gasket both sides with silicon sealant. Anybody know what sealant I should use? Thanks in advance. Regards Andrew

Thanks all. Fitted it to the sloping part, looks OK, but not great for filling etc. Regards Andrew

I have another simple question. I have come to mount the washer bottle According to the build manual the washer bottle mounts to the front of the passenger footbox. It shows a diagram of the front of the footbox and it's all vertical. However there is only a small verticle section on the SV and by the time you allow for the bottle to slide up to remove the bracket is half in the air adjacent to the sloping lower part of the footbox. Can anyone tell me where the correct place to mount it is and even better supply some photos. Thanks again. Andrew

Sorry,

I notice from the manual that I need to file the diff casing to allow clearance for the rear anti roll bar. I mine I have filed the vertical casting mark / web off (approx 3mm) for the recommended 30mm. The manual shows a picture indicating this and a MAX depth of 5mm. I then spotted this picture which shows someone has taken a lot more off. Do I need to relieve it as much as in the photo? I don't want to finish putting all of the suspension together and then realise I need to take the diff out for a third time. I guess there is alway a dremel or similar if I am stuck. How much clearence should there be statically to ensure they don't touch when driving it hard. Thanks Andrew

Jez, I wipped the diff out yesterday night and fitted the prop. Out and back in in less than hour which I was pretty pleased with. I not too concerned with fitting the exhaust spings. I have has a few ducatis and mastered the spings on the Termi there. Thanks for the words of encouragement. Hope to get the rear suspension finished at the weekend then the heater and bonnet stuff before I go on holiday. Then the engine and gearbox when I return. Is it easier to fit the gearbox and then the engine or both together?? Thanks Andrew

I fitted my diff yesterday night. I haven't installed the engine and gearbox yet and read somewhere on Blatchat that you can fit the propshaft after the diff. Didn't think about trying the prop down the tunnel. I guess mines coming out as well. The bolts were a pig to get in as well. I am becoming more sceptical of the engineering quality everytime I do something. Things should assemble easily, but everything seems to be a struggle. I still have sore fingers from the top shock mounts. Note to self to check more Regards Andrew

I am building a new car and the diff has arrived without the breather assembly. Is it easy to fit the breather after I fit the diff, or do I need to wait until I get one. Thanks for your help. Regards Andrew

I just done mine. You have to push the side panel out to fit the bolt. Even when you push the panel out it's not easy. The bolt will screw in without the damper in place, but when I fitted the damper I could get the bolt through, but it wouldn't start in the thread. Caterham suggestion was to remove the top wishbone and then put the damper in and twist it until it nearly vertical and then pull it towards the front of the car to get around the preload. It worked for me. Took 6 hours for the drivers side and 2 hours using the Caterham tecnique for the passenger side. I didn't damage the paint, but the side looks slightly lumpy on the passenger side just below the top wishbone front fixing nut. I might try and get a paintless dent remover I know to work his magic on it, although you wouldn't notice it. I'm still waiting for my front uprights to arrive from back order, otherwise the front suspension is finished. Good luck. Regards Andrew

Martin, I have also had to have a replacement headlamp bracket as the original was no where near the correct shape. To be honest I am a bit surprised that this damper fixing is so badly designed. I would have thought this could have been avoided very easily. I'll try the copper mallet, but there isn't much room to swing it and I'm scared about damaging the paintwork. I slip and it's scratched lime green. Edited by - andrew_r on 27 Sep 2009 20:30:28

I have been trying to get the top damper bolt in all day and still no luck. I can get the bolt through the damper OK, I just can't get the thread to start. If I take the damper out the bolt starts fine. I have tried to wiggle the damper but the bolt jsut won't start, I guess its off centre a bit and you can't get any pressure on it. Are there any tricks or techniques that I should be using. Very frustrated now ☹️ Thanks in anticipation.