andrew_r

no these are the permanent plugs, just fitted by the factory now.

yes, mine smelled of burning plastic when it first started. I thought the wiring loom was going up.

Martin, The colour codes for the coils are: Cylinder 1 (at front of car) Brown and White 2 - Brown Blue 3 - Brown Green 4 - Brown Purple Regards Andrew

Martin, I started mine for the first time this week. Mine was a bit complicated as I have bought an unmapped MBE 9A4 and most of my problems were around the start map being far too weak. I did also have a pin pushed out of the back of a connector installed by Caterham. My guess for your problem is either the cam or crank sensor not connected or working correctly. If everything else is connected I can't see what it could be. All of the conectors are unique. You could measure the voltage on the coil white/purple wire to ground this should be connected to 12v via the ignition relay and fuse B (15A) I think. While you are investigating yours could you do me a favor and measure the voltage at ambient garage temperatrure across the ecu temo sender installed towards the back of the engine above the exhaut header. I have an issue there still on mine. Also, have you had any issues with the indicators and hazzards. Mine don't work and Caterham think it is the dash control module circuit board hidden behind the dash needs reprogramming.

Having trouble geting my new build R400 going with Jenveys and MBE 9A4 ECU. I could do with using a wideband lamda to get the afr good enough to start the car. I don't suppose anyone has one I could borrow or rent to get me going. I am near Bristol - anywhere within 60 or 70 miles would be good. Thanks in advance Andrew

I guess one pair is for on top of the schuttle and the other pair fits beneath. I have loads of spare bits, bags of them including a spare set of steering rack clamps. Edited by - andrew_r on 20 Feb 2010 18:42:36

That sound like a good idea to use the Ezibleed with an empty bottle. I was avoiding an eazibleed for the reason you state. Probably try once more manually tapping the rear calipers.

Thanks all for your suggestions. I had spotted the two nipples on the front. I'll try and tap the rear calipers whilst rebleeding. I don't like this brake fluid stuff, makes me worry about the paintwork. Regards Andrew

Can anyone help I have bleed the brakes a few times. Now I have finished the brake pedal goes quite a long way before it goes firm. I see all these things about no movement and roack hard etc. The brakes don't pump up at all. Is this normal on a new build? Or do I still have some air in or a leak. I have big brakes and uprated master cylinder Thanks Andrew

The slave cylinder has a very long bleed nipple If you go to http://www.petersmithsportscars.com/ and look under Noble online parts, the M12 5 speed clutch slave is the same as the Caterham 1. You can beed using a deep socket with the tube coming up through the drive hole. You can loosen the nipple with mole grips on the outside of the socket. Regards Andrew

On my kit they have deleted the water rail and replaced it with a very long shaped rubber hose. I think they had issues with the aluminium pipe fracturing and leaking coolant. Regards Andrew

I didn't like the M10 through the M12 holes, so drilled out the Bellhousing and used M12 x 70 from the bellhousing outwards. It seemed the right thing tro do. When I got the kit I had a selection of bolts for this including M12 x 60 that weren't quite long enough. Regards Andrew

Rattie, I was also looking to use a threaded hole in the block for ease of connection. The Bell housing is pretty buried once everything is in. Also the Bell Housing bolts are slightly counterbored which isn't great for inserting an earth cable. Thanks all for the feedback. Anybody want to buy an earth cable?? Regards Andrew

POBC - I am approaching the end of my build. I seem to have a spare earth cable. I have the cable from the engine mount to the block and another from the battery to the Bellhousing. I have an identical cable to what was used to the bellhousing, but don't know where it connects. Anyone any ideas? The positive cables are all fine. Thanks Andrew

Could you not fit the wheel arches using the watts linkage pickup points as references? Regards Andrew

The first one took me six hours to get in. The second I called Caterham and their suggestion was to hold the damper upside down (ie sticking up in the air) and pull it forward (I think) to take the preload off of the bush. The thread then lines up and starts. Otherwise the bolt goes in the bush, but doesn't line up with the threaded hole. The second only took me an hour. By the way I pushed the sking outwards on mine, an SV R400. Regards Andrew

I think it's made by Edge which is sold by Cambridge Motorsport. They also supply Cosworth, whos Alternator brackets Caterham use. You need to ensure you get the correct orientation (its not left hand or right hand, but inbetween) so that the output M6 bolt is in the correct location. Cambridge will send the correct one. Regards Andrew

Spoke to Caterham. New silencer on it's way. Thanks all for your help. Regards Andrew

Thanks Ian, I'll measure mine when I get home. Regards Andrew

Chris, yes, I have gone the Jenvey route. Didn't fancy the plenum. Regards Andrew

Ian, thanks. Any chance you could provide the various measurements for the exhaust you current have fitted. Would be good to compare to my dimensions. Thanks Andrew

I am nearing the finish of my R400 SV build and I thought I would fit the rear wheel arches and exhaust silencer. Wheel arches all fitted OK. I thought I would fit the exhaust. I then realised despite the manual that the exhaust needs to be fitted first. I then removed the wheel arch and tried to fit the exhaust. The exhaust as an assembly appears to be 1.5 inches too long, so I can't fit the rear bracket and if I could it would hit the wheelarch. The headers are nice and central in the hole. The cat is pulled up tight to the headers and the silencer is tight to the cat - but it's still too long. I can email photos if anyone wants a look, don't know how to attach them here. Am I missing something or being stupid - surely I can't have an incorrect part ??? I have an SV - is a CSR assembly longer? I am feeling I may have a CSR repackable silencer. Can anyone supply dimensions of the cat and silencer for a CSR and R400 SV Duratec. I may be able to compare. I have even had the assembly polished :-( Thanks in advance. Regards Andrew Edited by - andrew_r on 29 Dec 2009 14:21:37

The CSR engine is purchased from Cosworth, so will be the same. Regards Andrew

Martyn, thanks for the input. I didn't know that style of tunnel top exisited. I have now arranged to send my one back and get the same as you. Shame it's a 175 pound upgrade though. But at least it will be right and be leather instead of Vinyl. Too late for my boot cover - luckily. Another challange solved. Regards Andrew

I have the latest type of R400 silencer. I have had the entire exhaust polished as the R500 is and intend to fit the cat with the black guard. I am not intending to fit the guard on the silencer although one was supplied. Msy need to for SVA though? My silencer is the rounded end stainless. It looked pretty bad dull as delivered but looks great now. Regards Andrew