Tim Smith
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Everything posted by Tim Smith
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I've had a similar problem recently. Do you have an electrical isolator switch? If so it's worth checking this out as they do fail and as well as isolating the battery they isolate power to the ECU which in turn powers up the fuel pump. I'm crap at electrics too but this solved my problem!
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You may well see me there, I try and have a quick blast down there regularly. I assume from your location that you're a regular too.
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That was me! I was testing the new aeroscreen and on my way for a go at the Pirbright bends. You probably did see me a week ago, I was heading to Pirbright again but discovered it had been raining over there, the exit of the Gordon Boys roundabout was good fun, I like the wet but I'd just cleaned the car.
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Thanks guys, some good advice there, I'll be giving it a go this evening.
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I've just bought an interchangeable aeroscreen kit and need to fit it. To do this I need to drill various holes for mirror mounts etc. What's the best way to do this as I'm worried the carbon will split? Wood drill? Tape all around the hole location to prevent it from fragmenting? Any advive would be most useful!
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Check where the 4 headers go into the collector, mine were a bit loose and rattled like hell. I've now got a long jubilee clip holding them all tightly together which cures the problem. My clutch pedal also rattles when my foot isn't on it, worth checking if it's that too. Tim
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Ammo, I'll take them. I'll blatmail you later to sort out payment and delivery address. Tim
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Ruff, YHM regarding R400 silencer and collector. Tim
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I had my 1.6SS upgraded to Supersport R spec 3 years ago. I went for the upgraded retainers and I think some upgraded main bearings too. It's been superb so far, very reliable despite track abuse, even allowing me to hit the rev limiter in 6th at Coombe on Monday. 😬 Go for it! Tim
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I've had a similar problem with mine due to contamination. You really do need to get the discs properly clean using brake cleaner or the most aggressive solvent you can lay your hands on. I used methylene chloride which is the finest degreaser known to man. Bed them in by riding down a good long hill with the brakes dragging to get the maximum possible heat into them to burn off any remaining contamination. Tim
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Johnty, Pink wire comes from fuse 14? I'm assuming that fuse 14 is the 20A one for the ECU? I've already swapped that to no avail.
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OK, I've re-crimped/replaced the spade connectors and that hasn't fixed it. Where does the pink wire come from? Any new ideas about what the problem might be? Tim
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Thanks Johnty, I'll try that tomorrow night and see if that's a more permanant fix. Tim
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Thanks to a bodge that Mav showed to Simon who then showed it to me we appear to have fixed it. However I still don't understand what we've done only that it works: Basically we opened up the loom coming from the ECU/MFRU and found a brown wire to pink wire spade connector. We then split the spade connector and connected the brown wire direct to the +ve side of the battery, leaving the pink wire disconnected. So what exactly have I done? Is this a bodge for the long term and what does it tell me about the cause of the problem? Have I simply bypassed the MFRU and need to buy a new one? Tim
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I'll try the thump to the MFRU later, a friend and I are going to have a go at it later. We'll also be giving Myles' batter straight to the solenoid idea. Hopefully we can narrow it down to either the MFRU or a problem with the immobiliser. Tim
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No jetwashing! I'm daft but not that daft! I'll try the battery to solenoid thing tomorrow, it's too late to go back in the garage tonight. Would a dodgy earth stop the fuel pump working at the same time?
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Isn't there some way you can reset the ECU? Turn on ignition and put throttle to the floor 5 times or am I talking rubbish?
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Tried the ECU fuse, swapped it for another 20amp one even though no sign of damage. Keep the ideas coming, I'm sure it can't be too difficult to fix.
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Lights work, battery has 12.5 volts but I've put it on charge over night just to be sure. Master switch works on all electrics doesn't it? Don't think it's that.
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I thought that too, tried it, it's not that. Any idea if the box with relays in it next to the ecu is prone to failures?
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My K series engined car won't start after I got it out of the garage for the first time in 2 weeks and washed it. It's not the usual starter motor gremlins as the fuel pump isn't working when the ignition comes on. There's not solonoid thunk, only a faint click (relay?) when I press the button. Given that it's these 2 things any ideas? Immobiliser? I have a Toad system but it all appears to be working as normal but I assume that the fuel and starter will be the two things it affects? Anyone any bright ideas? Tim
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If Stu's man doesn't want the petty strut I'll take it 🤔 Tim
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Does anyone know if it is possible to get decent rear vision with just the two side mirrors and do away with the central one?
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It sounds as though a small amount of bodging will be required to get it to fit properly, I'm taken with the idea of draught excluder material! 😬 Myles - YMMV? I see what you mean about mirror position giving a nice view of the rollbar, but it's one of those things that really aggravates me if my view is obscured. I turned the standard windscreen mounted mirror upside down and reattached that as it makes a big difference to view.
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I'm considering buying the Caterham aeroscreen kit and managed to borrow one over the weekend for a trial fitment which raised a few questions: 1) Do they come with the holes pre-drilled? I think I would need to move them slightly to get a decent fit over the scuttle. Do they fit tightly on the scuttle? 2) The central rear view mirror seems to sit right in my view of the nearside front wheel. In my view this is bad news as I like good forward view, especially when trying to place the car for corners on track. Is the central mirror moveable up or down out of the line of sight or can I just rely on the two wing mirrors? Tim
