Tim Smith

Thanks Bob, Don't think I'll bother with it then, the standard one is already a total sod when it comes to filling up, I don't need one that's even more aggro! Tim

I've been offered one of these for my Supersport but seem to remember being told that they can be a bit of a bastard to fit, something to do with breather hoses. Anyone got any experience with fitting these fillers and/or handy hints and tips? Tim

It's definitely the collector that rattles, I wedged the headers with whittled down matchsticks last weekend and went for a quick test drive - no rattles. Unfortunately the matchsticks fell out so a more permanent fix was required! Thanks chaps will get down to B + Q tomorrow and buy some silicon sealant.

Silicone sealant as in the stuff around the bath? Doesn't it just burn to a crisp or is there some special exhaust fixing grade that I am unaware of? Sounds good if it works though and well within my limited mechanical skills. Tim

My 1.6k SS has a Caterham 4 into 1 competition exhaust which consists of the 4 headers coming into a collector which then connects to the silencer section. The problem is that only 2 of the headers are held into the collector by bolts, the other 2 just slide into the collector and rattle annoyingly, particularly at idle and on the over-run. Does anyone know a simple heat resistant fix, something like the equivalent of plumber's tape that would stop the headers rattling inside the collector? Exhaust bandage is too thick and I don't want to create some monstrosity held together with jubilee clips. All cunning ideas gratefully received. Tim

Anyone know a "friendly" MOT station near Wokingham? Tim

I've got to get my car (1.6kSS) MOT'd tomorrow and am wondering if I have to do an particular things to help it through. I've never MOT'd a Seven before so any hints and tips would be much appreciated. Two things that spring to mind: 1)Emissions - my car has a competition exhaust and I presume no catalyst. 2) Noise - comp. exhaust while no ear splitting is fairly load. Any advice greatfully received. Tim

I've got mine in 'Titanium' it was painted by Caterham but I don't have a paint code. It's a lovely light silver with what look like small metal flakes, looks great with the blackpack. Ask Caterham for the code. I can send a picture if you're interested but it might not do it justice.

Blatman, I stand corrected having read the previous debate, power at the crank is indeed the best engineering measurement of an engine's output! However having read the Radical 252hp? thread I remain deeply sceptical about the claim. Maybe there was just a hint of avgas in the tank when they did the dyno runs.

Surely power output at the wheels is the most useful measure as this gives a better measure of what the performance of the vehicle is likely to be than power at the flywheel.

I'm new to this Sevens business having bought one in August after running around on lairy japanese motorbikes for many years. One thing that's puzzling me is the quoted power outputs from various engines is various states of tune: 1) Are they measured or calculated outputs? 2) If they are measured, where, at the back wheels or at the crank? Most bike power outputs in reviews are taken as measured at the back wheel which after all is where it actually counts! This seems to me to be a sensible approach in that any claims are fairly easily verified without having to drop the engine to check the tuner's/manufacturer's claims. One particular claim that seems highly suspicious to me is the 252hp claimed for the Radical SR3 running a tuned 1500cc Hayabusa engine. From my knowledge of bike motors this seems rather high as even a very quick Streetbike class drag racer is unlikely to have much more than 200hp at the back wheel running a normally aspirated motor running on pump petrol without the aid of nitrous. Anyone like to comment? Maybe the 252hp is calculated power output at the piston crowns!

Thanks chaps, sounds as if I may already have a flat battery, time to buy a conditioner I think!

Anyone know how long the battery on my 1.6k will last with the immobiliser on? The car's been in the garage for the last 3 weeks without starting because of the crap weather and I'm starting to think the battery will go flat fairly soon. Would it be better to forget the immobiliser and just use the cut out switch?

Testing, testing,testing 🤔