Nick

Did well at A&P then?!

Straight from the horses, er,

Arnie - I hit it at about 60 mph and hadn't realised just how many feathers a pigeon has! It left behind white powdery marks and other bits and pieces on the screen, the passenger headrest and the roll-bar, but I couldn't find the pigeon afterwards - I think it vapourised!

Thanks all. Arnie - a pigeon did this - I don't think my face would have fared too well! From what people say, it seems that a screenless 7 is less windy (wet?) than a screened 7 running without the doors.

Andy - thanks. I'll give a yell if I venture Dorking way (re intercoms) - so double thanks! Chris - where can I get a good garage? Will it fold away into my pocket? John - thanks. Are all Goretex jackets much of a muchness do you think, or are some much better suited to a 7 than others? re trousers, well, much the same point really! Obviously any old waterproof top and tail will do the job - but I've been wondering if anyone has found some that work particularly well in a 7, or whether they are all of a muchness.

Another questions for screenless Blatchatters: do any of the intercoms work? An R500 guy at Combe last year (Paul?) had one that was operated from the dash as I recall, and said it was very good though cost about UKP900. Thanks.

What waterproof clothing do those with screenless 7s use? Does good bike-wear work well, or are there better options? Looking at the stone chips in my screen, I wonder if you always need to wear a crash helmet. Answers on a postcard please... Thanks

AO21R 185 x 60/13 H for UKP60 each AO32R 185 x 60/13 H for UKP62 each I think those are fitted prices. Nick

g= Edited by - Nick on 30 Dec 2000 12:50:51

poiu

iy Edited by - Nick on 30 Dec 2000 12:48:29

rtfgh

Thanks again Mike. 3.92 gives a more likely result. 5th at 0.87 sounds familiar but I'll check. I have the actual tyre diameter somewhere as I measured it for my Sigma - I took 10 revolutions and divided by 10 to reduce the error margin. OK, send me a speadsheet over please - it will give me a break from trying to work out NI contributions! sad.gif mad.gif thumbsdown.gif Nick

Thanks Mike. Yup, 185 x 60/13. What are the two diffs? And how do I know which I have?! I specced my 7 with the AP LSD, but can't see any reference in the paperwork to its ratio. I take it you use 4th gear as it's 1:1? And... do you know the maths for working it out? Ask a simple question, get a simple answer, stir for 5 minutes... wink.gif Edited by - Nick on 18 Dec 2000 13:37:49

Can anyone please tell me the road speed per engine revs in top gear of a 1998 1.6K ss with the five speed gearbox, Caterham LSD and running on 13" AO32Rs? My speedo died and the new one seems even more inaccurate, according to my Sigma. I keep forgetting to measure speed over a measured mile, and I haven't got a GPS thingy! Thanks. Nick Edited by - Nick on 18 Dec 2000 12:33:28

Just how many forums do you subscribe to Mike?! tongue.gif (not really sure what that smiley means!) Nick

In the thread Wings And Stuff on 8 August 2000 Dave J posted this: I've just stripped the carbon , wings , dash , rear wings and nose off me superlite and stripped the GRP versions from kevins car . TOTAL WEIGHT SAVING = 237.12 Grams ( after I had washed all the ****e from me rear wings ). This will increase my power to weight ratio by .34 bhp/ ton OR if I skip my next Big Mac things should be equal .

I've got one - but it's silver.

Nope, no AO32Rs in there...sad.gif

So where can I buy new AO32Rs for UKP30 each?

I think after all that verbage on my part I need to lie down!

My speedo went at 25,000 miles, and I replaced the right angle drive thingy that connects to the gearbox; it's about 50UKP would you believe? Anyway, on my Ford gearbox (1.6K) there is absolutely no need to do anything to the gearbox. Replacing the drive turned out to be one of those '5 minutes jobs' that took ages. I replaced the drive (more on how in a mo) only for it to still not work; it transpired that the old cable end was knackered as well, and it promptly rounded the bit of the right angle drive it fits into. So, check the cable as well. I can't remember the cost but it might be worth replacing the whole lot as it's a fiddly job and a pain to do it twice. Jack the car up - there's a thread elsewhere about this. If you crawl under the car you will see where the speedo cable screws into the drive which, in turn, screws into the gearbox. It's a bit of a Heath Robinson affair as the bit of drive that the cable screws onto rotates - so you try to do up one rotating part onto another. The drive has a short bit of cable in it (an inch or so long) and it's all just a matter of fiddling around getting the various bits to slot into place. It makes things much much easier if a friend helps you by telling you if the cable is spinning at the speedo end while you twiddle it and assemble the drive end under the car. Once done, you can test it by running the car on axle stands - but be careful! It may sound complicated but it is quite straightforward, just tricky to explain here. When you see the bits involved it all makes sense, and isn't much more than "just a case of screw(ing) it into a hole on the side of the box." I confess that after it had taken me what seemed like all day to fix it the first time, only for it to go wrong immediately, I took it to Hyperion who charged me a fiver or some such, and I would advocate your doing the same! Incidentally, I have a Sigma bike speedo but can't read it at night so fitted a new Caterham speedo - which is even more inaccurate than the original, showing about 100 mph when the Sigma shows 85!

Do you have a trolley jack? They make the task much easier. Jack the rear of the car first (I don't know why but that's what Hyperion told me) with the jack in the middle of the car (ie in line with the number plate) where a few of the chassis/suspension bits meet (I hope I'm not getting too technical for you!) Once it's high enough, slip the locked axle stands under the chassis bits near the wheels. Then jack up the front under the towing eye - this is off centre, but again what Hyperion told me. Be sure the axle stands are locked with their retaining pins, on firm ground, stable, etc. If you're getting under the car you may, like me, be a tad nervous - a 7's lightness is relative! Once the axle stands were in place, I put a scissor jack and the trolley jack under jacking points, though not taking any load. I also only went under the car when a friend was present. Me, scared?!

Classic Carriage do indeed use a pricey super silicone sealant, which has kept my cycle wings on for over 2 years; I've heard (not just from Classic Carriage incidentally) that 'normal' silicone sealant can come unstuck within a few months.

Do you know anyone who you'd trust to drive the car every so often? I stored a couple of motorbikes for a year once but they didn't like it - needed new fork seals, etc. I'd put new oil in, filled the bores, drained the petrol tank, removed the wheels, etc, etc but I think use is what's best - just an occasional long run.