Steveh7

Hi all I purchased this last May 2016 and usd it once at Brands before my engine went :( https://www.aimshop.com/products/aim-solo-gps-car-racing-laptimer?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=googlepla&variant=10765101319&gclid=Cj0KCQjwz_TMBRD0ARIsADfk7hQaMyXS28_Md_MTEvN9mpGYzFe9sdY4ciKxaxkdXjrRIiOMDfk5c6saAs1bEALw_wcB I have all cables, mount, unit and original Box and the unit is as new. I paid a smidge under £300 and am looking for £150. Based in St Albans if anyone wants to look at it Steve

I'm after a tillet seat so I can take passengers, currently have a standard black tillet seat so looking for another one. Also looking to change my trailer to an enclosed minno shuttle or minisporter Thanks Steve

very lucky, 3 dry runs with only my 1st timed run being wet after a fairly heavy thunderstorm. I stuck with the ZZS as a result which were great in the dry. The 1st timed run I had a fairly exciting 1st bend and so backed off the rest of the run, not sure if the 539's would of been better however everyone else stuck with their zzs/zzr etc Steve

i have both a539 and zzs tyres and am having a go at loton park this Saturday. It now looks like it will be wet, does anyone have experience of which if these tyres is better in the wet (a539's)? car is a grad k series, totally standard thanks steve

probably irrelevant as mine is a 1.6k with Apollo however when I had it rebuilt it took over 15 x 10 second cranks to even get a flicker on the oil pressure gauge (oil filter filled but apollo was empty)

I'm in a tillet seat and I'm high enough that the harness where it connects to the rear bulkhead is lower then my shoulders. In addition the straps seem to fit fine across the shoulders i.e. the Simpson seems to accommodate the spacing of the belts as it has lips on the top that hold the straps in place. If I was in a foam/bag seat I would be too low and would need to adjust the straps in my opinion Steve

I use a simpson hybrid however I know people who use a HANS and I think you have to modify the harness mount points/chassis. The standard points are too wide apart and high for most people.

Hi, wondering if anyone is using an AIM Solo for sprints and hill climbs and if they have a list of GPS co-ordinates for UK locations that I could simply download to my device? Thanks in advance Steve

Thanks Shaun

Hi All I have recently entered my 1st sprints and hill climbs and am enjoying the events however would love to be in a group I could genuinely compete in! Car is a totally standard K series Grad car (sealed engine) and I have just bought x 4 wheels with a539 tyres so I could run in class 1. I can't make the remaining dates in the 7 club championship, however I'll aim to make a decent effort re 2018 :) Be great if you could give me honest thoughts on: 1. general entry number re class 1, is this healthy and likely to remain this way 2. Are most running a slippy diff in this class? 3. Does one class dominate in terms of participating numbers? 4. Re point 3 people running in other clubs as well (HSA, BARC) is there a spec that would fit best in terms of the 7 club and these to provide the best choice of events? Thanks for all your help in advance, I'm asking now as if I move to a class with healthy numbers I would be better off buying another car. I have no chance of top placings but it would be great to have some fellow competitors in like for like machinery. Steve

Hi All Apologies for asking but just wanted to check! What do you all use in a K series 1.6 for racing re Oil. In the past I have used Halfords fully synth 10W40 and many years ago Caterham recommended Comma 5W50. The car will be raced and has just had a complete engine rebuild so I don't want to skimp! Steve

I'm working my through dismantling my k seven as I need the engine and gearbox rebuilt. I have pretty much now removed everything so just now need to build my new engine crane and remove the engine and gearbox. After removing the Apollo tank I removed the drain plug (magnetic) and it was full of metal so at least I know the engine is toast...I didn't imagine it! Question is I know people have removed the engine and gearbox as one but some people split them and remove separately. Looking at the engine bay splitting the removing them separately looks simpler to me or am I missing something....is there a consensus on what is easiest?

just had mine done, I think it was 3 hours all in including removal, all new seals inc of back plate and refit. Steve

Thanks Jonathan, I built a k series caterham back in 2003 however this is my race car which I have only had 9 months. I'm sure it will come back to me however I'll photograph each step and look to add to the above. I've got some time and a specialist would want 3-400 quid for the removal/refit and thats the price of a gearbox refresh...which I also need! Steve

There are some great build diaries online however does anyone know of any detailed guides that outline the engine and gearbox removal step by step? I've decided to have a go myself and just wondered if anyone has any real world experience I could learn from in addition to the build manual. Car is a 1.6 k with Apollo tank Thanks Steve

Hi Charles My car suddenly started to use half a litre of oil after each 20 min session this weekend and after speaking with one of the approved engine builders and doing a search on here he suggested the same issue as you have described above :( I didn't discuss costs on the phone and the car hasn't yet gone in for a proper diagnosis however it would be really useful to gain feedback on your experience. Overall are you happy with the work and could you provide an indication of ball park figures for the work you had done....basically just looking to calculate when I can afford to race again...... Steve

I think yellow will be too stiff as its thicker then the green I have. Really interested in the red, do you know when your likely to move to widetrack?

perfect, thanks Steve

I need to get my car comfortably over a min weight limit (its a bit too close to the limit!) by adding approx 8kg of ballast. What have people used for this application, I was thinking of using lead flashing? The challenge is that I don't need much and most roofing companies will only sell a min of 3 m. 3m at 240mm width is about 70 quid which seems rather a lot for ballast! Any thoughts appreciated :) Steve

Thanks Mark, really useful comments. I'll check the rear springs, I assumed standard. I've not had a chance to test yet (plan on doing a day at Snetterton) but your points give me a useful start point. Steve

Hi , looking for a red ARB for a narrow track standard suspension car imperial chassis (2006 k series car) Thanks Steve

Thanks Richard, you assumed correct its a super grad so all standard and narrow track. Interesting point re the rear ARB and I will also look to get the car flat floored again as its not been done with me (and I weight at least 15k less then the last owner when this was done). Thanks again Steve

I have 2 anti-roll bars (orange and green) and I believe that a lot of people use the the red anti-roll bar when racing. I currently don't have a bar fitted and struggle for traction coming out of corners so was wondering if anyone couple explain to a simpleton the best place to start in terms of improving this. My current understanding is that adding an anti roll bar to the front will induce a bit of understeer however flatten the car mid corner so aiding traction. At the moment I'm spinning up the rear wheel coming out of corners (even fairly open corners) and losing a lot of time. My thoughts were to start with the orange (this will all be done at a test day) and use the rear anti roll bar 2 from the back and then maybe try the green to see whats better/quicker (and assuming all in the dry). To cut to the chase my questions are: 1. Am I correct in terms of my understanding to date 2. Does the above method to work out the best setup make sense 3. Do I need a red as the green will most likely be too stiff and the orange too soft 4. Am i wasting my time, everyone already runs a known config in the dry! Thanks for help in advance Steve

Hi All I'm currently making my first steps into racing with the graduates in the super series (baptism of fire!) and was also keen to have a go at sprinting. If I switch the tyres to a539's from the ao48's, based on the car is a totally standard 1.6k with the exception of: aeroscreen, full cage, usual safety stuff, anti roll bar however note we can now remove headlights and front number plate. The car is insured but I have let the MOT and tax lapse this year as I now trailer to the track however if i stuck the lights and front number plate back on it should pass. Would the above enable me to have ago in class one or does the car need to be taxed, mot'd etc. Thanks Steve

I have a tillet and simpson hybrid pro and depending on your position in the car this may well require no mods. I'm a smidge under 5ft 10 and the belts sit at 0 degrees (i.e. level with shoulders and original mounting holes) and I'm running caterham 3 inch belts. The tillet holes in the seat are a bit tight with the 3 inch belts so 2 inch would provide greater clearance if you are taller or you might have to enlarge the holes to get the belts through so that they fit flat on the top of the FHR (if you are over say 6ft at a guess?) I am a racer newbie so will post back in a few weeks what its like in terms of comfort etc during a 20 min stint but sitting in my garage making brum brum noises it seems pretty good.