Grubbster
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Everything posted by Grubbster
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2 chassis brackets where the floor meets the rear bulkhead - the bolts go through these and through the floor itself.
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I just had mine replaced as a precautionary measure, a bit of rounding on the edges of the teeth. I'd be a bit surprised if the belt could actually slip but due to the cost of an engine rebuild if it ever did slip it made sense to go with the recommendation and have new ones fitted.
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Simple then, thank you
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My S3 car has leather seats and I want to change my drivers harness to a 6 point one, would this be OK? Would I need to make a hole through the seat to thread the crotch straps through? I don't want to change to a Tillet (not comfortable for me) and I'd rather not have a bag seat as this wouldn't be adjustable which means SWMBO wouldn't be able to fit. I like the look of the GT seats (but I can't find them on Caterham Parts any more) and I think you need the lowered floors for them anyway. Any thoughts?
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I ran my widetrack car without damper extensions for a while, not enough droop so was often cornering on 3 wheels. I have no idea why CC don't just supply them like they used to, hardly expensive and quite necessary
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Knowing how bloody awkward is is threading the wires through the latest headlamp bracket I'd do whatever I could to prevent the need to do it, and wouldn't remove the bracket at all. I'd snip the wires inside the headlamp bowl, remove the headlamp, thread wires into new headlamp and make new connections (solder and sleeve or crimp). Much less effort.
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If the wheels/tyres are Halfords aftermarket items then the tyres will almost certainly be a bit hard for a 7 (intended for tintop most likely) so that could be why they are breaking traction. If it is then going side to side then this doesn't sound like normal behaviour for an LSD - more like an open diff
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If they are mog then they are wet laid anyway not prepreg carbon so supposed to be glossy, you wouldn't be able to get them back to bare carbon.
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When I built my Academy car 20 months ago they told me that assembly guides are no longer provided and that I had to download and print my own. So I did, and then found other self-builders who'd been sent an assembly guide with their kit
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Ah, the link to Facebook wasn't a great success then! His name is Stuart Hood, tel 07850 172550, it's a primed SV bonnet for £50 and he lives somewhere near maidenhead I think. 😬
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A friend of mine is selling this here I'll add his contact detail and a photo when I'm back on my laptop later. He's after £50
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Very nice, someone's going to snap up a bargain that's for sure!
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I think I know what goes wrong with them John. There is a hole that allows the fluid into the cylinder, when you apply the brake the internal seal passes that hole then the pressure can build up and operate the wheel cylinders. It appears that as the seal passes the hole it catches and is damaged (possibly even being pushed up into the hole slightly IYSWIM) and once there is a tiny bit of damage to this seal you can't maintain a steady pressure as the fluid passes the seal. In short it is not a great piece of engineering . . . . If you find something different it'd be good to hear
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unfortunately many people seem to experience spongy brake problems in the newer cars including me (and lots of others) in the Academy last year. Since Girling stopped making the master cylinders the one that replaces it isn't very good (I had 2 fail, 1 only lasted an hour on track). On top of this the remanufactured rear callipers are also prone to leaking. If you can find an old style Girling master cylinder (there are still a few new ones around I believe) this might help, or fit the uprated model instead. Back to the question though - I know that a lot of the roadsporters have fitted the high effort pedal to their ex academy cars so it must be possible but I don't know how hard it is to do.
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I have not heard anything back on the Mazda box yet but over the last few years there have been many failures of the Ford box in academy and roadsport. Some chassis mods needed for the Mazda box, if I were buying new and had a choice I think I'd go Mazda if this is going to be the future standard.
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I found that the 2 pronged spanner for changing cutting discs on my angle grinder worked as a wind back tool perfectly!
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Always good to get stuck into the upgrades from the outset Slightly confused as to why you needed to cut off the plug on the rear lights - I just drilled the hole in the carbon block a bit bigger so that the plug could go through (and saved 0.01g in carbon dust ).
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CC didn't supply the awful plastic topped radiator for our Academy cars last year we had a much better item so may be worth asking what else they can supply. I agree though, best to go for a Radtec, this should do the job OK.
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About to give an aero a try but need a centre mirror, anyone got a spare kicking about?
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*redface* 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬 😬
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Just to be awkward, I did mine (and have done several times since) without drilling out all the rivets y taking scuttle and bulkhead as one item. Doesn't take long to undo the various things bolted to it (heater, fusebox, inertia switch, heater, heater cable, steering column thing, immobiliser) then it lifts away quite easily.
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I wonder how much of a re-write is needed for the [loosely termed] Assembly Guide? Quite a bit different from the sigma/duratec dedion cars I would think, I hope they make a decent job of it as it looks like this is going to be a popular model for self-builders.
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We collected a new car from Newtown in Wales and were heading home in a 2 car convoy (me in a dark blue RS Megane and Caroline in a shiny white Focus). You were talking to a little passenger at the time
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Saw you heading towards home, I was in the tin top heading the other way so you wouldn't have noticed me.
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Good to hear I didn't hang on to my Academy car, the new owner is running it in Tracksport, I don't know how he's getting on with the brakes. My other 7 is still running with an 11 year old standard cylinder without problem (and i's got the big front brakes) but I suspect I'll swap it for an upgraded cylinder at some point just for a little bit more feel on track.