Grubbster

For the Academy the stops went behind the pedals (clutch and brake) but in my road 7 I have them both at the top (to protect the cables).

OK, well it's hear should you need it. I used Sika 292 on my carbon wings then just a tiny squirt of satin black paint on each once it had set meant they were not noticeable. RH7 - if the wings are being bonded on to the stays then I'm sure that's fine, but if bonding to a 1" square bighead fastener I don't know how well it would cope.

Just checked - yes I have one pack left, strange it's not on their website now - it is still on other retailers site. PM me your address though and I'll pop it in the post tomorrow if you like.

As far as I'm aware 292 is only available in white, don't make the mistake of buying 291 in black as this is not the same stuff. Personally I'd use the BigHeads own FS Acrylic, 1 pack can do 8 BigHeads, it sets very quickly and it is really strong (voice of experience from when I had to remove one!) - it's the same stuff we fixed your wing on with at Combe a couple of years ago. I might have a spare one unused in the garage I could send you, let me check.

So it would appear that your car is running a bit low, particularly at the front so maybe worth investigating a bit more. Another thing - is your car wide track or narrow? If it is wide track then have the 1" extensions to the dampers been fitted? I know that some kits are supplied without them and no mention of them in the assembly guide so it could be part of the problem as this would drop the car a bit at the front.

Fitting these will make your suspension effectively the same as buying new adjustable platform springs/dampers from CC - so yes, these are exactly what you want if you wish to change the ride height. It's worth measuring the ride height as it is (with you in the car) as it is quite possible that it is already a bit low so raising it a bit might not be so bad anyway. With you sat in the car get someone to measure between the ground and the lowest point of the chassis rail underneath the rear arm of the front wishbone on both sides. In rough terms (this can get quite subjective) about 150 mm should be the minimum (in the Academy we were permitted to be 140 mm minimum so for road use expect to be a little higher). The rear height measured from the ground to chassis rail under the front edge of the rear wing should be 15 - 20 mm higher than the front. If yours is much lower than these then it could well be worth fitting adjustable platforms and getting the car flat floored. If you are already this high then it's time to re-profile the drive! Edited by - Grubbster on 18 May 2014 16:49:34

Still some bits left

Me too, after CC Mids took it through IVA my mrs went to the DVLA office in Portsmouth and returned with the rev doc. On the road the following day. This was Dec 2012, has something changed?

Do they have the seats yet?

Hi Tom, I don't have a picture of the latest version - this is a picture of the type I fitted which was supposed to resolve the problem but unfortunately it didn't (the dedion still hit it). I've seen the latest version and it looks quite different to this, you wouldn't confuse the 2. It is easy to check if yours is hitting - the contact point is in the centre of the dedion, on the forward edge towards the top - you can feel it by running your fingers along the dedion tube. This picture shows where the dedion hits. On the original type the mounting bolts had hex heads, on this version you can see they are countersunk. However, to the left of the red circle there is a cast lug that sticks out further than the black frame, this is the problem point. Edited by - Grubbster on 24 Apr 2014 21:36:15

They should also be dealing with all the other odds and sods, fitting a loan fuel pump from another car and getting it through IVA and registration so that at least when your pump materialises they can just fit it and hand over the car. For IVA purposes I would have though that a standard pump would be fine (assuming the proper one is just a higher flow rate for top end).

As an absolute minimum I'd have thought they'd lend you their demonstrator until yours is sorted

I think the exhaust is quieter Peter, I'll measure it sometime and find out. Hard to tell as I couldn't hear the exhaust at all over the induction!

I don't think it is needed on the 6 speed - just the little O seal around the little shaft that pokes out at the top of the box.

Thanks Adrian, I must have just been lucky with the exhaust I had when I dropped the engine in, I've never had it mapped. I'll get it booked in soon.

I've recently swapped my 6" Powerspeed 4-2-1 system for a big bore Raceco 4-1 on my highly tuned K series (230 bhp). At the same time I replaced my ITG air filter for a new one, other than that I don't think I have done anything that could change the way the engine runs. It now feels a bit different - slightly more hesitant to start, lumpier idle, not quite as sweet when pulling through the revs and it seems much noisier (induction not exhaust). I don't think I am imagining the differences and I know a 4-1 will be different to a 4-2-1 but would it be worth getting the mapping looked at or is this something that couldn't make the difference? Previously the mapping was spot on (it has an Emerald) - hot and cold starting on the button, pulling well and smoothly throughout the range so I'd like to get it back to where it was. The reason for changing the exhaust was to reduce noise (struggled on some trackdays), the primaries are the same diameter. The air filter is not as deep as the one I took off (my mistake I ordered the wrong one) but as the backplate is fitted at the open end of the trumpets I didn't think this would matter as there is nothing protruding into it. Obviously I can stick the old one back on and see if that makes any difference, but I no longer have the old exhaust. In terms of out and out performance it feels about right so nothing major wrong, but it is different and the induction noise noticeably louder (as anyone on the IOW last weekend will tell you ) Any thoughts?

Very sad to hear this is the situation you have ended up in Daniel, I've enjoyed the blog and we've been in touch a few times along the way - so I hope things can be sorted and that you get to enjoy your dream car. I spent much of my Academy season last year biting my tongue rather than rocking the boat too much complaining - there were many things I wasn't happy with (shortages, incomplete/inadequate instructions, poor quality parts, some elements of how the Academy is run) and some things I believed to be dangerous (diff to dedion contact, failing master brake cylinders). On the issues I did raise the initial responses were TADTS and beyond that I just got the feeling they didn't give a toss. As I was competing in one of their series I felt I needed to just get on with it rather than burn bridges, but it played on my mind the whole time and spoiled my enjoyment considerably. Ultimately I became quite disillusioned and decided not to continue into Roadsport, I sold the car soon after the season was over. I did offer to met up and discuss with them why I wasn't happy and not continuing and for a while it looked like this might happen but it's all gone very quiet since the season ended. I do not view the challenges of very poor instructions, missing or wrong parts and a general lack of care for their customers 'part of the character building' that comes by default if you choose to build a 7. Great that a couple of the CC guys there can be very helpful but that isn't the point, they shouldn't need to be, when you invest this sort of money it ought to be right and on the odd occasion when it goes wrong they should be bending over backwards to sort issues ASAP. Edited by - Grubbster on 10 Apr 2014 22:10:45

I'd like it please if it bolts onto the same place as the windscreen stanchion, I want to try an aero on trackdays this year.

I think CC mids have an R500 SV if that's any good?

When I needed a new locking key I used a place in MK, I think it was this place very good service, but you do need to know your key code.

In the metric chassis there are just 2 positions and the factory will put them in the forward position (as to use the rear position you need to shorten the clutch and brake rods and lengthen the threads - which are 1 imperial and 1 metric take a look at how!)

It's an unswitched power supply, I used it for my intercom

BTTT

I ran in my academy sigma at brands hatch on a trackday

Quoting Z3MCJez: Steve - I'm stunned you didn't break any big heads in a year with Edna. Maybe the batch I had wasn't up to it, but I would never use them again on a track car. Jez Hi Jez, I did actually have 2 breakages during the year but not catastrophic as only 1 at a time so no harm done. I put it down to a bad batch (the weld went) so just replaced and carried on with no further issues. I suppose if I was that worried I'd just fit an extra pair per wing but to be honest it never concerned me. I've been using them on my other car for 10 years and 30,000 miles with no problems at all and it has a much harder life than Edna ever did.