Grubbster

Hi Charles, Just back from a quick coastal blat! I had a problem getting my fan to run as well, the engine temp got near the red but the bottom of the rad was still cold. It is caused by an airlock, what I did was to get the front of the car as high as possible to make the radiator the highest point, then ran the engine with the top bolt off the radiator, then when the thermostat opened the air 'burped' out! See some photo's of the build here

Guy, just been looking at the pictures - your are off to a good start! A couple of observations:- Your nosecone is different - it seems to be made to go over the lower wishbone bolt heads - is that the case? Obviously the roll bar is different, doesn't look to have the same number of mounting points on the front uprights. Were the side screens already fitted? Mine weren't! Also, my diff was already modified so I didn't have to take a file to it. Keep up the good work - I am doing my first service today. See some photo's of the build here

Charles - just been and checked: I started with 2 litres and have 0.7 left, so I only used 1.3 litres, only spilled a little so I guess 1.2 is about right. See some photo's of the build here

You mean you don't have to hack loads off of it to make it fit - like the standard caterham fibreglass one? 😬 See some photo's of the build here

Yep, single wire so must be earthedfor -ve and switched on the +ve. Are you going for the Dukes of Hazzard 'Dixie' then *cool* See some photo's of the build here

Your 'mate' had better not slip on the oil when getting into his Porsche! He wouldn't want to spoil the carpet in that . . . and when I filled my diff, the hose I used was as big as the filler hole and acted as a bung - therefore I didn't realise it was full until I pulled the hose out 😬 😬 😬 See some photo's of the build here Edited by - Grubbster on 11 Oct 2003 19:56:28

Hey Charles, how far did you get today? Anywhere near start up yet? I have over 600 miles on mine now! Still sorting out a few rattles though - and I seem to have an oil leak as well. See some photo's of the build here

Hi Guy, The diff is a bit of a pain because not only do you have to lift it into place, but when it is there you need to centre it. Charles managed on his own (I think) but I had help with mine. Use a jack to take the weight and once the front bolts are in you can raise it to the top. I put a 1/4" metal bar through the top fixings (because it is loose it is easy) while I worked out the spacing washers. When the diff was centred I pushed the top bolt through thus pushing the metal rod out as it went and picking up all the correct washers! It worked well. The top bolt was a bit of a struggle to get through the last bush but rather than just smack it - if you have someone who can look through the bush from the opposite side, they can see if the bolt is lining up, then with a meaty screwdriver they can lever the insert of the bush around until it lines up. Does this make sense?? I think I put a picture or two of the diff process on the webpics. To be honest, I think fitting the diff was one of the most awkward bits in my build - you'll have a better time once this is done! As for the back light - acording to the manual it should already be fitted if you have no spare wheel carrier! See some photo's of the build here

Have you managed to do it yet? When I tried, I couldn't even undo the centre screw! Didn't want to use an impact driver on it, so left it on the passenger side. See some photo's of the build here

Congrats on being an Anorak Guy! I'm still an Angel 😬 😬 I did get your mail and have replied - have you received it Should give you plenty to think about regarding costs! Oh yes, on the rear badge there is a green X-power bit. The letters are all seperate and held on to a clear transfer tape to ensure the correct spacing when you put it on - mine didn't stay on the transfer tape too well so I only stuck on the caterham bit and binned the xpower. See some photo's of the build here Edited by - Grubbster on 5 Oct 2003 18:40:32 Edited by - Grubbster on 5 Oct 2003 18:41:01

Guess what? Simon Lambert called me back - apparently he was mistaken and you do get Roadsport stickers for the bonnet. Mine have arrived in the post now. See some photo's of the build here

I collected mine today with PBC, SVA and registration complete. In the kit I got a caterham x power badge for the back but not stickers for the bonnet. I asked Simon Lambert at Caterham about the stickers for the bonnet (which were listed on the invoice) but he said there are no stickers for the Roadsport! I'm sure I have seen loads - but he said there used to be a limited edition Roadsport, but nowadays there are no bonnet decals. Interested to hear if anyone else has any - I'm sure I have seen loads around. See some photo's of the build here

I'm looking forward to meeting a few other enthusiasts and intend to go to the meets. Only problem is that I normally work away from home during the weeks, so I'll need to keep an eye out for the weekend get togethers. See some photo's of the build here In Dartford - waiting SVA!

There is also a good store in Aston, Birmingham called Fletchers Autostore. They do a lot of stuff for the Max Power boys, but also keep a good stock of useful tools and sundries. 41mm socket 1/2" drive only £7.99. They do have a website but at the moment it doesn't include the tools - but if you want a big subwoofer or stick on window tint . . . . See some photo's of the build here In Dartford - waiting SVA!

The colour is Titanium Silver - one of Caterhams standards. I don't know why there aren't more around, I really like it. I was going to have a solid red (to save money) but the missus wanted a metallic so we went for this. I didn't want to pay extra for black pack either, so I had to pick a colour that worked with the chrome. The black windscreen surround was a mistake by Caterham - they fitted the wrong one but I forgave them and said they could leave it! It works really well I think. See some photo's of the build here In Dartford - waiting SVA!

Having just completed my roadsport, I was really disappointed with the way the bonnet fits (or doesn't) around the nosecone. There are big gaps at either side and it lifts slightly in the middle at the top. I didn't fancy trying to bend it myself, so I put it on the list for Caterham to do on the PBC (I took it over today). When I mentioned it, I was told that they changed suppliers of nose cones recently and have had some problems - they may be able to bend it a bit, or remove the foam strips along the edges of the chassis where the bonnet sits as this may help. I looked at many other cars today and noticed that some are much better than others in this area. Has anyone else ever tried to resolve this or heard about the nose cone problems? Or maybe developed a fix? I am just quite concerned that having taken so much care over building the car it may look poor because of this. See some photo's of the build here In Dartford - waiting SVA!

Thanks Tony, I guess you're right - just be careful, there doesn't seem to be much else I could move. The front of the bonnet is a very poor fit, the rivets holding the catch on don't help much, they are up against the nose fastener causing a big gap. I'll see what Caterham suggest. Glad you like the look of it - I am very pleased with the result! See some photo's here It's just about finished - waiting for SVA date!

Hi Tony, The cycle wings contact the indicators sufficiently to push them round a bit before full lock is reached - I have put some pictures on the end of the album so you can see. Also, I have put a couple of pictures showing very poor fitting of the front of the bonnet - I am hoping Caterham will know some magic way to sort this during the PBC. Any thoughts?? On the harness - I couldn't undo the centre screw - so I left it for now, should come back to it later! See some photo's here It's just about finished - waiting for SVA date! Edited by - Grubbster on 21 Sep 2003 12:12:28

My car is almost finished now so I am on the last odds and ends of tidying up. Todays challenge has been to work out how to stop the cycle wings hitting the indicator mounts on full lock. The headlamp/indicator mounting brackets are pushed as far into the top fixings as possible, but still on full lock the cycle wings touch the indicator mounting plate. Any ideas?? See some photo's here It's just about finished - waiting for SVA date!

Klein, YHM, Steve See some photo's here It's arrived - build in progress

Hi Charles, I fitted mine today and yes they do turn and I do have the crinckly washers on! Make sure you have the spacers right side up and under the harness mounts. See some photo's here It's arrived - build in progress

HOORAY 😬 😬 😬 It now works - it was all to do with the immobiliser! 4 presses of arm then 1 of disarm and now it all runs fine *thumbup* See some photo's here It's arrived - build in progress

OK, first problem solved. One of Caterhams little wheezes I think - I managed to get to the back of the ignition switch, there was one unused pin, so I pulled off the red/white connector and pushed it on to this pin instead. Hey presto - all works fine *smile* Now I have a new problem! the engine runs for about 3 seconds then dies. I have to reove the jey, put it back in again and then it fires up for another 3 seconds, etc etc. At this rate it will take a long time to get anywhere!!! Anyone got any ideas? Could it be immobiliser related - can't seem to make anything happen pressing either button - the red light is always flashing??? See some photo's here It's arrived - build in progress

I agree Charles - the diagram is a bit misleading so I am assuming that the wires in the plug are OK. I have just been to look at a friends Superlight but it is not the same as mine so I can't compare. Now I need to establish when the voltage should appear on the red/white wire as this seems to be wrong. You can't power yours up yet, but thanks for looking anyway. See some photo's here It's arrived - build in progress

I've just looked a bit further and used a voltmeter to see what is happening: On the input side: When the ignition switch is in position 2 or 3, there is voltage on pin 2 (white cables) which I understand is fuel pump so that is fine. (this drops to zero with the switch in position 1). When switch is in 1 or 2, ther is voltage on the pin with the read and white cable - this drops to zero in position 3. This is the starter motor trigger so seems to be ar5e about face to me. I need to check someone elses or for someone to check for me? Anyone on-line close to Gosport I could come a visit for 5 minutes???? Steve 0870 9044720 See some photo's here It's arrived - build in progress