Grubbster

I've posted on the thread in chitchat - take a look it may be the answer? See some photo's of my Roadsport build here

Guy - just checked mine and realised why I never had a problem - 'cos I am vertically challenged I moved the pedals closer to the seat - thereby taking up the slack in the throttle cable! See some photo's of my Roadsport build here

Probably only need to borrow one, but if you do want one of your own - I got mine from Fletchers Auto Store in Aston (Birmingham) for £8.99. They have a website but it doesn't include tools yet. You could always give them a call and see if they could post it to you? Their part number is LAS1119, 41mm Socket, £8.99 NOTE it is 1/2" drive - no adapter required Phone number 0800 975 8008 See some photo's of my Roadsport build here Edited by - Grubbster on 3 Nov 2003 12:32:14

Stops the cycle wings hitting the indicator mounts . . . . . . Oh and worth 'a second a lap' apparently! See some photo's of my Roadsport build here

Thanks chaps, clearer now! See some photo's of my Roadsport build here

Can I ask the stupid question please 🤔 Is there a benefit to using silicon hoses or do they just look pretty See some photo's of my Roadsport build here

YHM See some photo's of my Roadsport build here

Guy - I'll send you some pics, shouldn't have a problem with chafing in the area you are talking about. Around the driveshafts can be a problem, but check your mail in a few mins and there should be some pics. Grommets not required (nor are the blue sleeves) - but Charles used the grommets to cable tie round on the chassis by the hubs and I used the blue sleeves to prevent chafing. I'll go find the pictures now. See some photo's of my Roadsport build here

I guess it is a 'changeover' type, this means put the supply to the centre and in one position one outside terminal will be live and when you flick the switch the opposite terminal goes live instead. According to the latest build manual, you should connect Blue/White to P1 and Brown/Blue to P2. (therefore P3 unused) Connect it like this before fitting the switch and try it, don't split the blue/whites. I think it will work fine, if it is wrong the high beam will be on all the time and the flasher switch will turn them off! - in this case, move the blue/whites to the opposite terminal. Hope this helps! See some photo's of my Roadsport build here

OK Y.O.N. - I think this is the answer, while at Dartford today I asked the question and the advice was to bend the rack. As there are so many variations in tyre OD the rack cannot suit all of them, so bend to fit is the answer When I get the car back I'll give it ago, and maybe my strap invention won't make me a million after all See some photo's of my Roadsport build here

Ok, it does sound familiar - but I think the answer is still no See some photo's of my Roadsport build here

Sorry for being thick - I don't know what a Cobra is - so the answer is probably no! 😳 See some photo's of my Roadsport build here

I don't have a starter button, but when I built my car the starter motor ran when the key was turned 1 or 2 clicks (but not 3 where it is supposed to). It was caused by the red/white wire on the ignition switch being on the wrong terminal! Sounded like a similar problem. The starter button may be a 'changeover' type, if so then it may just be a case of moving the red/white one over? Haven't seen the switch or wiring diagram - so am guessing. What I would suggest, is remove the red/white lead and use a meter to measure the voltage between the other (unused) pin and earth (a meter - rather than risk damaging anyrhing) and see if you get 13(ish) volts when the ignition is on and button pressed. If this is the case then that may be a simple answer. See some photo's of my Roadsport build here

Woolly - is this a new build or are you upgrading? I had a similar problem with a new build and will elaborate if required See some photo's of my Roadsport build here

I've done it, a new strap with buckles made and fitted - no longer a problem. Manxcooper - The spare I have is directional so I hope I don't get a puncture on the 'wrong' side! Probably wouldn't hurt too much for a short trip. Yes, yes, I know I should just leave it at home and chop the rack off - and probably will in time. For now though, I feel safe in the knowledge that I have a spare. Anyway, for the benefit of any more sad anoraks like me - there are a few pictures on the site below See some photo's of my Roadsport build here

OK, nobody has suggested anything radical yet - so I will go and invent a strap and try it out! Photo's to follow (if it works!) See some photo's of my Roadsport build here

As I suspected, changing the speed drive oil seal has made no difference. The car will probably have to go back to Dartford to get this and a coolant leak sorted. Pain in the 🙆🏻 as it it miles away. See some photo's of my Roadsport build here

Nick, I have got a roof rack strap around mine and it does work fine (maybe it was mine you saw . . .) - I think I may just make something that looks a bit more 'meant for the job'. Will add some foam though - good idea. See some photo's of my Roadsport build here

Is there any way to stop the spare wheel jumping around in the rack (besides removing it!). It is fixed tightly to the back panel, but there is so much flex in this that it doesn't seem too good and I am worried about causing damage over time I have put a roof rack strap around it for the moment, but I was thinking of inventing a webbing strap and buckle affair to make a neater job. Does such a thing exist already or shall I go ahead and see what I can do? See some photo's of my Roadsport build here Edited by - grubbster on 21 Oct 2003 19:36:28

Wahey Charles! Well done - a big milestone reached! Clutch - was the seat adjusted correctly? It will be a bit on/off but shouldn't be too bad if you are sat in the right place. Brakes - they will get much better quite quickly, mine are really good now. Sppedo - mine is stable, so I assume yours should be. Not sure what to do, I'll have a think but a call to techhelp may be in order. The gearbox noise in neutral is normal, just the thrust bearing chattering - they all do that! See some photo's of the build here

Mine does the same - every time you start the car a few miles appear from nowhere! Speeds up the running in process! 😬 😬 😬 😬 See some photo's of the build here

Is it easy to remove the propshaft with everything else in situ - and change the seal in the gearbox that way? See some photo's of the build here

Hmmm . . . Never did anything with mine except fit them! Don't forget to swap the rear pads (if necessary) as I didn't and got charged when Caterham did them during PBC! See some photo's of the build here Edited by - Grubbster on 17 Oct 2003 21:41:04

Oil seal changed - not convinced it was the cause of the problem. Now think it maybe gearbox tailshaft seal ☹️ I'll know for sure once I get to Brands tomorrow. See some photo's of the build here

Yes indeedy, I don't think it is sealing properly, I have just got a new one (£2.74 and 2 hours drive). I'll let you know if it makes a difference. Thanks AJC - spot on! Still no call from Techhelp - I left a message asking them to call earlier *thumbdown* See some photo's of the build here