andy couchman

Hoping top hear soon (impatient or what*whistle*). Hope it gets here tomorrow so I can show it to the lads at tomorrow's area club meeting. Just have to learn to tell the time next... Andy

Thanks Mark. I think I paid less than that for the car... Andy

I have two in good condition if someone has a couple of 8 inch (rears) they could sell me. Andy

In BHP terms (if mine is typical) no. My max BHP stayed about the same at just under 150 (244 cam, forged pistons, slightly larger valves and gasflowed head). But max torque may be higher and, more importabtly, you should get a smoother power delivery. I guess if I made other changes BHP would rise too. There's a lot of bull around power. We tend to talk of say 200bhp but the reality is it's only that at x000 rpm. Less than that and the BHP is lower too. In practice on the road, you're rarely at max rpm but are often accelerating so power deliverrey and smoothnesss at each rpm stage is, I would argue, much more important than max BHP. Again if my car is typical you should also get from switching to fuel injection: - better mpg (35mpg when we went to Italy in 2013) - better starting - still a great sound (even louder on the inlet side than with my old Dellortos) - still a simple engine to DIY work on (but setting the ECU up requires a good mapper, time and money). The Zetec is a great engine, more modern in design and sounds great too. Not sure if it's still made so unsure of what the long term supply situation is for both engines. I'd argue too that heritage wise the Zetec is a great engine, the Xflow a classic engine. Which is best? For me, I'm happy with the Xlow but I know others who have swithed and probably wouldn't swaitch back. In terms of lap speeds etc I think the Zetec will win, but the XF won't be as far behind as you might erxpect. Finally, I would expect the Zetec would require more infrequent rebuilds and, when it comes to resale value, I think the Xflow has been undervalued in recent years but that could change as its classic status becomes more recognised. Andy

Oooh nearly here Andy

Interested in the backs if you decide to split them. Andy

Changed mine (Ital axle) for lighter Hi Spec units and sure I could feel the difference. Maybe unsprung wight makes more of a difference than I'd thought? Andy

Apologies Jonathan - only just caught up with this thread again (as I already have the canisters). Yes please for two black tool rolls if it's not too late and yes, also interested in half a dozen mountings too if they are now sourced. Many thanks and will quite understand if I'm too late. Andy

Me too Roger! Thanks both. Andy

Rivnuts here too and then used stainless cap head screws to secure. Can't remember the size but they're quite little.Did it about 10 years ago and still works well. Does look nice too... Andy

Lower cost versions are now on the market. Good! Any best deals around? I'm guessing the 20 degree fitting is fine for the 7? Andy

Well done Shaun and the team. Must admit the slowness of the forum had put me off reading and posting but great to see it's now pukka again! Andy

It's all a question of correlation... First, model it using CFD and all sorts of technical wizardry (or a pen and paper...). Then buy one of those lovely metal 7 models (1/24 scale type), and use a couple of bits of wood and a protracator to measure the angles and try it. If that all shows it's OK... Finally, get the test drivers to try it for real as you and a team of other engineers monitor proceedings. ...or just ask Autosport. Andy

I'm with Gordon - mine's an old crossflow with throttle bodies (Jenvey) and 3D engine management (Omex). The Zetec is a great engine but am I right in thinking it's no longer made? How will that impact costs ina few years' time? The crossflow can be expensive but parts seem to be available (again, will that continue?). Is the crossflow still actually being made (for Formula Ford)? A Zetec engined car should be faster but the crossflow still goes well. It also sounds and looks gorgeous, has great torque, is updateable as budgets allow and even arguably is a bit more 'heritage'. Whichever route you go, you'll have a great car. My punt is that crossflow cars will become more desirable - but as I never plan to sell mine, that's not an issue. Andy

My priority would be much, much faster downloading. Takes an age (OK our broadband is not the quickest but nothing we can do about that just now).

Great spec and as a fellow crossflower I still love the look and sound of these torquey engines. So many 'unfashionable' bits (engine; clamshells; short cockpit; live axle; superlights; 4 speed 'box) yet I'd make a strong case for every one. Over time, I'm convinced that crossflows will have added value too - it's a bit like the valve vs transistor argument on guitar amps. Sorry to hear that Mike (sorry, don't know his second name) is selling and hope the car goes to someone who will appreciate it for the gem it appears to be. Andy (1988 live axled crossflow too!).

Personally I provide my insurer with a list of all modifications (now two pages...). If they know 7s, they'll know there is virtually no such thing as a 'standard' car. My car also runs different wheels/windscreens/nosecones etc from time to time. A bigger issue I would have thought would be not running a cat. Anyone had a claim rejected because of that? On 'normal' cars, any performance enhancement or anything that makes it more attractive to thieves, increases the risk, and may also suggest the driver is more of a risk taker. But 7s are a little different as the risk is priced more on classic car lines - we do low mileages, look after our cars and tend not to leave them in dodgy places and we don't tend to be 'dodgy' people. The car is also relatively easy to fix if it is damaged. But the general rule has always been 'let the insurer' decide. I guess the specific issue with brake pads is that some may not work well until hot so low speed accidents may be more likely. Also, the manufacturer will not have gone through as much testing of that specific pad, as it is only designed to work in race conditions and not in the many other conditions a road pad would. As our cars are very light, a race pad is likely to be perfectly suitable to whatever road conditions we throw at it - whereas a race pad fitted to your Bentley Continental may not be. Andy

Agree on clutch cable but also check gear linkage. Could it also be synchro going on 2nd gear? But it's much easier to adjust the clutch and 'box mechanisms so try that first! Also check for loose gearbox and engine mountings. Not sure what you mean about double de-clutching and space - the less space the better in some ways! If you don't already do so, wearing race boots helps avoid hitting more than one pedal (sorry if you already know all this ). Good luck and hope it's quick and cheap to sort. Andy

Have you tried phoning Omex James? They're very helpful and from a description over the phone may be able to suggest something. From your description I wonder if it's as simple as a loose connection? Good luck. Andy

Perhaps... "Roll bars? Sorry Sir, they're out of stock at the moment. Just run it without - it'll be fine." "But it's very oversteery." " Nah, they all do that Sir." 😬 Andy

Yes please on the video mount Stu. Andy

Bu**er - just bought two for Saturday. Good luck! Andy

I used a stick on rubber pad used for holding sanding paper from memory. Good to put you weight on and covers any previous dents. Long time ago but worth Googling on Amazoning for something suitable. Andy

I'm afraid I'm with many others on this too Barkalarr. I always think of a drive in the 7 as an event and so a few seconds extra is OK. Being another to have survived a pretty hefty hit (concrete block at 60+ head on) I'm a fan of full harness belts and would make them compulsory in all cars if I could. It's funny that we make our very young kids wear them (child seats) and then switch them to less safe three point belts when they're older. Pilots wear them (even on airliners), pretty much all race car drivers do, powerboat pilots do and babies do. So do I. But I respect your choice sir. Maybe fit belts that have easier to adjust buckles? Any suggestions for how to make a full harness more user friendly Blatchat? WD40 on the adjuster rollers? Velcro strips can help with the sitting on buckles thing too. Andy

Was that the one I saw earlier having stopped to put its hood up (a few miles outside Burford)? I was passengering in wife's red Mini Cooper. Nice car. Andy