Tiff

There is one benefit of changing from clamshells to cycles that I haven't seen written about. Having sold my clamshell live axle ☹️ and just put an R300 on the road , I was genuinely surprised at how much less wind turbulence there is in the cockpit at speed with cycles. Her indoors is well chuffed.

The ACES shiftlight is supplied fitted and already set on the R300. My question is what are the settings? At what revs does the downshift light come on? Similarly the upshift sequential lights? Caterham tech help line tell me I can't set it myself.

I now have my R300 SVA'd and on the road . Anyone know the rev. settings on the sequential shiftlights ? What's the increments between lights, and the downshift light seems set very low? I've asked Caterham tech help but they didn't know at the time and haven't replied yet (4 days).

I noticed the same thing. The manual does not mention washers but I also reckoned they were needed, and the damper still fits OK. I found the the narrowness of the slim bolt head made it more difficult to torque up.

I had no intention of my message regarding "R" clips staying at the top of the page all the time. It seems to have a will of its own, and although I have deleted the message, I don't seem able to delete the title. Edited by - Tiff on 22 Jan 2003 14:52:54 Edited by - Tiff on 22 Jan 2003 14:59:42

Thanks Fred. In my case the build manual should have an introduction that says "First put on your reading glasses" !!

I had this conversion done by Roger King. The engine started of as a 1600cc X/F unit and finished as an 1800cc 155bhp unit. Bags more torque, 0-60 times that surprised a few "expensive" Se7ens, easier to drive and better fuel consumption (except when thrashing it!). I've now building an R300 and of course have thrown all the old X/F paper work away.... Roger is extremely helpful and does an excellent job. It cost me 2.5k + VAT 3 years ago. The first question he will ask is what type of block is it? If it's an AX block you're in luck, this has the most potential. From what I remember: tuftridden crank, Cosworth big ends, balanced +dowelled flywheel (lightened if you want), forged pistons, big valves and gas flowed head, duplex timing chain, double valve springs, titanium collets, steel rocker posts, opened up and rejetted carbs, 244 cam, other steel bits between valve and cam and a lot more. Gave me a lot of fun and was very reliable over the 10,000 miles I drove it, including around the Pyrenees twice. You'll need the 4:1 exhaust to fully realise the potential - great noise! Go for it !

I'm at the stage on my R300 build of assembling the Watts link. The manual is far from clear. On the shorter rear arms it is not possible to thread the rod ends right in due to the contriction of the waisted section of the arm. This means that when the arms are horizontal the bell crank is not vertical. Should it be?

When I had my 1.6 litre 100bhp X/Flow uprated to 1.8 litre and 155bhp by Roger King, he recommended a fully synthetic oil from the word go. He explained that in 'olden' days the machining was fairly coarse so that the 'marks' of the machining (rather like minute bolt threads) would wear off during early running - and non synthetic oil and an early oil change was recommended. In new engines (AND my X/Flow after being bored out etc) the machining technique is much advanced and that this is no longer necessary. Roger's explanation was far more technical than I have portrayed but that's the gist of it. On my new R300 I intend to use fully synthetic from the word go.

I queried this when I ordered my car (which arrived last Thursday !!). LawrenceZ is correct. The smaller wings fit the new R300 wheels and tyres.

My R300 arrives on thursday - to be built over the winter . You get carbon front wings as standard, rear wings and nose cost (a lot) extra. I've opted for them being painted with the leading edge left unpainted. You can keep adding extras till the cows come home but I decided the Limited Slip Diff, FIA roll bar and interchangeable aeroscreen were musts for trackday mode, and I've ordered screen, hood, heater and leather seats for her indoors and holidays.

Woops ! I've posted this on the wrong forum. I've just replaced the clutch pressure plate, friction plate and thrust bearing on my X/Flow which has completely solved the slight problem I was experiencing of clutch judder. I'm having difficulty selecting first gear (4 speed) when the engine is hot - it's fine when cold. I've played around with the clutch bite point - no difference. Any ideas out there?

Had a similar problem on my XFlow 2 weeks ago. A build up of crud had stopped the cog moving the full length of the spline. Solved by removing the motor, cleaning the cog/spline with WD40, and oiling with a light oil.

I have a '97 X-Flow with a 4 speed box. A small oil drip from the speedo drive at the gearbox has turned into a serious leak. Is it possible to replace the oil seal on the drive pinion without removing the engine/gearbox?